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    Thread: glowing rotors

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Appleton,WI
      Posts
      164

      glowing rotors

      I have a problem with my damn S-10 Blazer. The brakes are not confidence inspiring to say the least, yet the front rotors are hot as hell after a longer drive. I came home from the drag strip where they had a hard time slowing the car down from only 110 to hit the return road and then on the drive home the pedal was high and hard. I only touched the brake a few times the whole way home, but they were glowing a dull red after the drive. What is going on here?

      The setup is mostly stock. Stock manual master cylinder, with stock pushrod and stock pedal. The prop valve is a new factory replacement. The front rotors are stock with SSBC Force 10 calipers. The rears are 11x2 ford drums. I have Earls stainless brake hoses as well. I also have a Wilwood adjustable prop valve in the rear line.

      Hear is how I have it plumbed...
      http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...4/DSCN0327.jpg
      http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...4/DSCN0321.jpg
      do I have the ports mixed up? Is the residual valve on the front brakes possibly? That would definately cause a problem.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,118
      Country Flag: United States
      From the looks of it, you have the system plumbed wrong. I see the line-lock solinoid, so I would guess thats the front line. I see an adjustable proportioning valve in the other line. You need to get ahold of a factory service manual and see how its plumbed. I think the front port on the MC needs to go to the rear brakes and the rear port goes to the front brakes.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
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      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70
      From the looks of it, you have the system plumbed wrong. I see the line-lock solinoid, so I would guess thats the front line. I see an adjustable proportioning valve in the other line. You need to get ahold of a factory service manual and see how its plumbed. I think the front port on the MC needs to go to the rear brakes and the rear port goes to the front brakes.

      Andrew
      I think the same as well.
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Appleton,WI
      Posts
      164
      Looks like double dumb-ass on me. I have the ports mixed up on the output side of the combination valve. I wonder how much ET and mph I lost with the front brakes being hung up? Also might contribute to the damn blazer overheating. Time to re-plumb and then R&R the wheel bearings.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Appleton,WI
      Posts
      164
      Well the plumbing problems weren't the only issue. I am going to check pushrod endplay. I might even try a set of stock calipers. Could underhood heat be contributing to the problem. I just seems as though the problem gets worse when the engine gets hot (over 200). Or they are unrelated and just both overheat within a mile or so of driving.

      More updates when I get home from work

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Appleton,WI
      Posts
      164
      I checked the pushrod endplay and it is fine. I took the wheels off and you can spin the rotors even after pushing the brake pedal and letting it return, so no residual pressure. I redid the brake lines from the tee to the brake hoses, going under the frame, away from the headers. I started to make up a heat shield, but ran out of daylight.

      You should see the red plastic plugs in my wheels. They are all shriveled up and melted to the wheels.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Appleton,WI
      Posts
      164
      Hey guys, I'm not completely nuts!!!

      I called up SSBC today for technical support and they said to send the calipers back to Summit, because they don't even offer them anymore due to the same problems I've been having.

      I'm going to get some stokers so I can drive it, and send those damn things back.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,118
      Country Flag: United States
      Sounds like you had several issues stacked up. Let us know how it all works out.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her




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