Sealing head studs?

[blown69nova]

I am having a hard time sealing my head studs on my sbc 383 using the ARP thread sealer (white stuff). What do you guys recommend using? I have heard you can use silicone sealer, but what kind exactly?
Please help!
Thanks, Steve

[rocketman]

Are you torque the studs to the recommend tq.Is it leaking out of the block or is the head gasket not sealing.

[Blown353]

The ARP sealer is poop, moreso with studs than bolts-- that's probably why you're having the problem.

A much, much better option is Permatex Hi-Temp thread sealer #59235. Excellent stuff but a bit spendy at $15 or so per tube.

Hylomar also works well, as does non-hardening form-a-gakset #2B.

I've used all with great success but the new 59235 is my favorite. Very easy to work with.

[blown69nova]

Water is leaking from studs not gaskets or block. I went out and got some ARP bolts now instead of studs. Will the Fel-Pro mls gaskets still seal after they are re-tourqued @ maybe a little different specs (different wrench/ fasteners etc.) ?
Thanks, Steve

[Blown353]

Water is leaking from studs not gaskets or block. I went out and got some ARP bolts now instead of studs. Will the Fel-Pro mls gaskets still seal after they are re-tourqued @ maybe a little different specs (different wrench/ fasteners etc.) ?
Thanks, Steve

The MLS gaskets will re-seal if you don't tear off any of the Viton coating.

However, if the block was honed using studs to hold the torqueplate on then you should leave it with studs. Changing to bolts may affect the bore shape. Always use the same hardware to hold the heads on that the machine shop used to hold the torqueplate on when honing. (If a torqueplate wasn't used, find another machine shop!)