Remote Starter Solenoid

[jamieg285]

I am thinking of converting to a remote starter solenoid. I have heard that the most common option is the Ford one, but I have seen others. What are the minimum requirements?

[rockdogz]

I am thinking of converting to a remote starter solenoid. I have heard that the most common option is the Ford one, but I have seen others. What are the minimum requirements?

Minimum requriements for the solenoid?
I used the kit from Mad Electrical - http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml - and it has been working great.

[rocketrod]

Minimum requriements for the solenoid?
I used the kit from Mad Electrical - http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml - and it has been working great.

I am using this also. Excellent product and great customer service!

[kball]

Those are fine if you have your batt up front still. I used to have the smae style setup. If you have a trunk mounted batt, the big starter cable is not hot when you're not cranking. So, you'll need to run a fairly big charge wire from the alt. to the batt, which defeats the purpose of this. It doesn't really change the heat soak issue either, since you still use the solenoid on the starter anyways. I use a newer GM gear reducion starter like the late vortec trucks have. Super strong starter , light and no heat soak problems because they have way more room than the old barrel size GM starters. I'd put the money in the new starter and keep the system stock. A million GM cars on the road have no problem with it.

[rockdogz]

Those are fine if you have your batt up front still. I used to have the smae style setup. If you have a trunk mounted batt, the big starter cable is not hot when you're not cranking. So, you'll need to run a fairly big charge wire from the alt. to the batt, which defeats the purpose of this. It doesn't really change the heat soak issue either, since you still use the solenoid on the starter anyways. I use a newer GM gear reducion starter like the late vortec trucks have. Super strong starter , light and no heat soak problems because they have way more room than the old barrel size GM starters. I'd put the money in the new starter and keep the system stock. A million GM cars on the road have no problem with it.

Mark at MAD Electrical recommends connecting the battery charging wire from the alternator directly to a junction at the front of the car, so accessories draw power directly from there. Then an 8 gauge wire is run back to charge the battery. According to Mark's website, the normal large solenoid on a typical GM starter that would draw 40-50 amps when cranking now needs only 2 - I won't claim to be an expert on this but the URL is here: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

My experience with this setup and a rear-mounted battery for better weight distribution is that it's working great so far. I will let you know over time if the situation changes. I think the Pro-Touring situation is different from a million GM cars when you throw in higher underhood temps (headers, higher-HP engines and conditions) plus higher requirements on the charging system (stereos, accessories).

[John McIntire]

Got mine from Mark at M.A.D. Great guy, insanely knowledgeable. Call him, he'll set you straight!

[kball]

I'm not saying the system is no good. I just don't see the advantage as far as the solenoid on the starter goes. It still has to come on to pull the pinion out to engage. Whether you engage it with a remote solenoid or not. As far as I know it will always take the same amount of current to activate it. So, in a rear mount battery application, you still need to run a constant hot wire back to the batt. 8 ga. or whatever. There's the only advantage I see. You could fuse that wire w/a 100A maxi to avoid a meltdown.