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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Amelia (Richmond), Virginia
      Posts
      136

      Do I need a booster with the Wilwood set up?

      I have new Wilwood discs on all four corners and just picked up a really nice Wilwood polished master cylinder. Do I need the brake booster or can I get away with just using the M/C.

      Jason T.
      Nous Defions
      1967 Nova
      "Slightly" Modified
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2265645


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryville, TN
      Posts
      844
      Just checked out the car, that thing is hot! I can't wait to see more pictures of that intake and some performance numbers.

      Good luck in your last month over there in Iraq man! Thanks for serving your country!
      A.K.A: That bald guy
      Find me on Facebook or my personal website.

      - 67 Camaro: Current Project Car

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Posts
      103
      Sorry, I can't help ya, but I just looked at your pics as well, and that is a bitchin' car! The paint scheme is downright awesome! We need more pics.
      And another thanks for serving your country!
      Kyle

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Posts
      13
      Quote Originally Posted by LoPro67
      I have new Wilwood discs on all four corners and just picked up a really nice Wilwood polished master cylinder. Do I need the brake booster or can I get away with just using the M/C.
      Hi,

      Well do have a bit of input... First is I have to agree with the other two post, that car is so sweet. Im a bit jealous As for your question, well it depends on what size the master cyl bore is. Generally if you have a 1inch bore, you can run manual, if it is 1 1/8 then you should consider a booster. Let me know if you have any questions, and I will be happy to help
      Victor Tezanos
      Precision Brakes Company
      1010 Benson Way
      Ashland, OR 97520
      1 866 992 7253
      www.precisionbrakescompany.com
      [email protected]

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      79
      I'm running the 12.19" rotors with the 4 piston caliper on the corners no problem. (Manual-1"bore master)

      Big improvement from 4 drums.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 2Slow4U
      I'm running the 12.19" rotors with the 4 piston caliper on the corners no problem. (Manual-1"bore master)

      Big improvement from 4 drums.
      I have the same and it is great. A little hard pedal, but definitely easy to modulate.
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Amelia (Richmond), Virginia
      Posts
      136


      This is the master cylinder (polished) I was talking about. It is the 1 inch version. I didn't know the difference between this and the 1.18 so I opted for this one.
      Jason T.
      Nous Defions
      1967 Nova
      "Slightly" Modified
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2265645

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Amelia (Richmond), Virginia
      Posts
      136
      Does any one have any input on proportioning valves for street strip cars? Is it needed or not? Knob or lever?
      Jason T.
      Nous Defions
      1967 Nova
      "Slightly" Modified
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2265645

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      79
      IMO, your going to need it. I have the knob. I knew one guy that had the same setup(on a 67 Camaro) and didn't think he needed the prop valve. Every time it rained or he braked hard he locked up the rear end.

      I think to get the most out of the setup you need it.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      79
      BTW-He's the reason I got mine. Along with a few other people getting the same results without them.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      Yikes
      You must use some kind of rear brake pressure adjustment valve in the rear on a custom brake setup
      My knowladge from brakes comes from GM factory training
      and You DO NOT Want the rear brakes locking before the front or the car will want to come around on u (very dangerouse)
      Go get a willwood adjustable brake valve , remove anny proportioning valve and run the adjustable valve in the rear brakes

      go somewhere SAFE and do some hard stop tests tune the rear brake in untill they just start to skid b4 the fronts the back off untill they dont ( BE VERY CAREFULL TESTING) so nobody gets hurt
      after your satisfied I would make shure to tets again in a wet situation untill your optimal braking witout rear lockup is obtained.

      GL Ken F Pm me if you need further info
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)




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