Cheaper tubs

[68ls1wannabe]

Is there anybody who sells cheaper tubs than DSE. There product looks great but I'm not ready to spend that much for the metal. Couldn't you use a wheel tub from jegs or summit and just cut it to fit. I'll be putting carpet and a cover in the trunk so no one will see the square looking tub. Any body out there have some more experience with this please chime in because i'm about to start cutting.

[Travis B]

others can be made and or used...you have to be careful thought when fabbing new tubs so that you don't get into the rear seat area!

[bretcopsey]

Before the tubs were available, the typical method of mini-tubbing was to split the tub and add a 2-3" wide strip of 16-18 guage sheetmetal between the inner and outer halves. If you have the skills, then this would probably be the cheapest route. Your time is free...

[astroracer]

Before the tubs were available, the typical method of mini-tubbing was to split the tub and add a 2-3" wide strip of 16-18 guage sheetmetal between the inner and outer halves. If you have the skills, then this would probably be the cheapest route. Your time is free...

Ditto... If you carefully remove the original inner you can widen it with a strip of metal like Bret said. The Malitude was done this way. Check out PHR for some back issues, Mark walked us through the process in one issue.
Mark

[roverhybrids]

I just did mine using some trailer fenders. It was about $60 for the fenders and 14g metal to fill in the side.
http://www.roverhybrids.com/1969_Camaro_Pro_Tour.html

I think where the main difference is price comes at a cost of alot more finish work. And even if you work for free you still have consumables to pay for.
In the end I still think it was worth it.
I've got about 40 hours in it including replacing the trunk pan. Still have to do shock mounts and more finish work.

[68ls1wannabe]

The shock crossmember is just a piece of 18 gauge sheet metal that has been bent to form the squared shape, right? I just don't see how this is a secure mounting place for the coil over shocks. I'm thinking of putting in a piece of round tubing across for the mounting pt. Also thinking of putting in the jegs frame rails and using the stock tubs.

[baz67]

The shock crossmember is just a piece of 18 gauge sheet metal that has been bent to form the squared shape, right?

It is 10ga metal

[68ls1wannabe]

Oh. well that may be strong enuff. thanks.

[awr68]

I mini-tubbed my camaro before the DSE Deep Tubs were available. I used new inners, split them, and added 2.5", then installed them...cost just under $200 for the new inners and some 18 gauge sheet metal...and yes my labor is always free...on my cars that is!

Yes, the DSE x-member is steel, not sheet metal. You can have a piece bent locally to save a little money...a friend of mine did. I however used the one from DSE.

[parsonsj]

There's another option: use small drag-race style wheel tubs. You can get them in steel and 32" diamater at Morrison. Cost: $89. You'll be able to keep your rear seat, remount all of the pieces to the wheel tubs (decklid mounts, roof, rear inner quarters, etc.

It is probably more work than the DSE piece, but not that much.

jp

[68ls1wannabe]

I guess the prices at morrison have gone up. I checked on the tubs and they are now $110 plus a $33 shipping fee. They are still cheaper than most methods so I think I'm gonna go with them. I'll post some pics when the tubs arrive.

[JohnUlaszek]

10g is still considered sheet metal, and if anything, the crossmember is stronger and consequently heavier than needed.

[gggoad]

I am wrapping up a DSE install now - to me it is not worth the time and investment in trying to widen the original tubs, you have to be carefull removing them, they are difficult to clean, etc. It has been done for years and is very doable, but for the money it's a lot of hassle - just my opinion.

A few things though - it is difficult to put a tire under the car - 335's would be very tight and definately require cutting the fender lip. I chose 345's and created an extra 10 hours of fabrication to further move the frame rails. Also the templates are only a "rough" starting point - don't rely on them much at all.

If you decide to do DSE's let me know - would be happy to cover some of the pit falls I fell into!

[68ls1wannabe]

Here's some recent pics before the new frame rails go in and the tubs. The 2x4 is the mock up for the new rails. It looks lower than stock but it really give 1/2 more clearance for the lowered suspension.

[Ron S]

Wow,you went that far,I'd cut the rest of the trunk floor and back half the car making new trunk floor etc.It's actually easier to do that then to try and fit the factory metal to the new rails.I've been making my own tubs out of 20gauge,its really not that hard

[astroracer]

Will you be using a TWig welder to install those new rails????

sorry... had to do it...
Mark

[astroracer]

JUst something to think about. A 2 x 4 piece of lumber actually measures 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". It is not a true 2 x 4 like your steel tubing will be. If you are planning on using 2 x 4 tubing you should probably check clearances with the real deal...
Mark

[astroracer]

Another suggestion if I may... I know what you are doing with the lumber but, when it comes to cutting your steel, could I suggest squaring up your cuts as I show in the pic?



This not only makes them look a little neater but it also shortens the actual weld area and improves the stress path through the structure.
A fishplate on the inside or outside may be a good idea also, especially at the top 90* joint.
Mark

[bretcopsey]

Twig welder!!

[J2speedandcustom]

We had to make our own since we had to move the tubs UP in the car to get the ride height we wanted. Not a hard thing to do just time consuming. If you don't need anything but widen the tub I would recommend the DSE tubs or the cheaper method of widening the stock ones. Makes alot less work in my opinion and a better end product!