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    Results 1 to 7 of 7
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Hampton Roads, VA
      Posts
      678
      Country Flag: United States

      Problem-engine ingesting coolant!?

      Hey guys,
      My engine has recently started burning up coolant at an increasing rate. It started when I installed my new head gaskets, they are flat copper gaskets--I found out later that the block should have been o-ringed for proper sealing. Anyway that wasn't done, and some coolant seeps down from the heads in one area on the driver's side. But the worst problem is that it appears to be sucking a lot of water through one of the passenger side combustion chambers, you can see it spit out the tailpipe, especially on cold startup. I have had to add about a gallon every 50 miles or so and it seems to be getting worse.
      There is no coolant getting into the oil--the oil is staying nice and clean. But there is obviously a bad seal between a water jacket and the combustion chambers because you can smell gas in the radiator.

      Is it OK to keep driving it like this for now? I am running pretty much 100% water for now, since the weather is warm. I plan on installing new heads soon, and I will get the correct gaskets then. But will driving it while it's sucking up water hurt anything?

      Also, if you have any good recommendations for head gaskets for a BBC 402 (About 9:6:1) I'm all ears!!

      Paul



      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, Chevy Big Block 468, TKO 600 Trans, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, Eaton/Motive 3:73's, 18" Coddington Junkyard Dogs, Nitto NT555 rubber, Autometers http://www.fquick.com/Bandit
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2458763


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Dunwoody, GA
      Posts
      4,984
      Country Flag: United States
      Too much water and you'll bend a rod since water does not compress like air. My suggestion is to fix it now or park it now until you can fix it.
      Trey

      "The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."
      ~ Jon Hammond

      1979 WS6 Trans Am stock LT1/T56 drive train out of my Formula. BMW M-parallel rims. C5/C6 brakes

      build thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=begins

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      You need to get the heads off quickly
      I cant stress enough how quickly.
      you let water sit in the combustion chambers and your gonna find rust forming and piting the cylinder walls.
      This in turn will fubar everything about your sealing (comp, oil and blowby)

      You are running a N/A BB chev? and who told you you need copper head gaskets?
      are the heads aluminum? if so felpro makes a gasket for that no big deal.
      If you arent running sick amounts of boost or N2o then take those gaskets off and stuff them up the A55 of the guy that sold them to you.
      just go get comteks or felpro gaskets
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Miami, Florida
      Posts
      1,639
      If you switch to Cometic gaskets you still need to mill the block and heads for a "SMOOTH" sealing surface.

      Cometic gaskets are all you'll ever need, if you install them right.
      Kevin.
      69 Firebird "Eternity"

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      I second to get them off asap and do not drive it. beyond bending rods and rusty cylinders you can be grooving the block where the coolant is traveling across the block.head surface. The copper may be a sacraficial lamb though but a grooved block or head will be a bad thing.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Hampton Roads, VA
      Posts
      678
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow, I guess it's more serious than I thought. I will be pulling the heads within the next week or 2, probably, then I will get the casting #'s so I can order up my new aluminum heads. Any recommendations on the heads? What kind of runner length should I be looking at for a potent street build making about 500 hp?

      Madspeed, to answer your question, I am running only a Holley 750 carb, no nitrous or boost, 9:6:1 CR or so. I put the copper gaskets on there in anticipation of installing a procharger centrifugal blower--but now I probably won't do that for at least a few years, if at all.
      The heads are the stock iron oval port affair.

      Thanks for the advice--
      Paul
      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, Chevy Big Block 468, TKO 600 Trans, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, Eaton/Motive 3:73's, 18" Coddington Junkyard Dogs, Nitto NT555 rubber, Autometers http://www.fquick.com/Bandit
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2458763

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      CHICAGO SUBURBS
      Posts
      761
      If you use copper head gaskets you need to coat them with hylomar, a non hardening sealer, or get the new ones with inprinted sealer on them. I have a car I built that will eventually come apart for the new style copper gaskets. FRANK




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