Help with turn signal lights

[souljaboy9768]

I have a 69 Chevelle that I have installed after market halos. When activating the turn signal the halos flash amber and the lower turn signal in the bumper is flashing correctly.

I would like to remove the turn signal in the bumper and only have the halos flash.

When I tried to wire direct to halo the turn signals don’t not flash.

(Im assuming because the halos would only work because the halos needed the ground from the turn signals in the bumper)

Is there a controller or a way to wire this correctly to remove the turn signal in the bumper?

Any help I would appreciate

[souljaboy9768]

Thank you

[dragonbuilder]

It will need a flasher specifically for led to flash properly since you removed the incandescent bulb which has a higher resistance to make the original flasher work. Just search google for led flasher. As far as the wiring goes for the halo. It should have two wires both need 12v not ground. One is for daytime running (white) and the other is for turn signals (amber). So when lights are on 12v will be applied to one wire and when the turn signal are on 12v will simultaneously be applied to the other wire causing it to “switch back” between colors. Also you’ll need to get an additional flasher for your hazard lights.

[souljaboy9768]

I tried a led compatible flasher… still would not flash. Do you think I need to install one that has a ground?

[Vimes]

How did you connect the halos to the turn signals to begin with, and how did you remove the wiring to the factory lights? Have you tried putting the factory lights back in to see if the halos work the way they did before? It sounds like you left an open when you removed the factory lighting, and it would help to troubleshoot if we knew what went where when it worked and exactly what was changed. The way it should be wired when complete is the 12v for the amber halo should be connected to the positive wire for the blinker. I'm assuming here that the halo grounds with the headlight ground.

Once you locate the open, if the LED flasher does not work you can add a resistor inline to simulate the bulb. Sylvania sells them and they work pretty well. If you go this way, resistors do heat up so I suggest using some thermal paste between the resistor and whatever you screw it to.

[souljaboy9768]

The halos I tapped into the fender driving light. I added back in the grille turn signal and everything works again.

The amber halo is tied into the hot wire on the turn signal. When I connect it direct nothing happens.

[csouth]

I tried a led compatible flasher… still would not flash. Do you think I need to install one that has a ground?

If you're car still has the original old style fuse box, I would definitely use the flasher that has a ground.

[Vimes]

The halos I tapped into the fender driving light. I added back in the grille turn signal and everything works again.

The amber halo is tied into the hot wire on the turn signal. When I connect it direct nothing happens.

My thousand mile thoughts, not seeing it - there is a purple and a blue wire going to the front lights. I wouldn't think this is the problem, but is it possible you connected to the purple wire when wiring it directly? If you had, and had tried turning on the parking lights with the headlight switch, the lights would have come on at that point.

It also looks like the flasher is a simple 2 wire switch. If you want to try rewiring it directly, pull the flasher out and jumper it. If the lights work with the flasher jumpered, then it will prove that the halo resistance isn't cutting it for the flasher and the electronic flasher would be needed. Alternatively, adding an in-line resistor might solve the problem. Anyway, these are the next things I'd check, based off your description and results vs the attached wiring diagram.

[souljaboy9768]

If you're car still has the original old style fuse box, I would definitely use the flasher that has a ground.

I have a newer harenss made by kwikwire

[souljaboy9768]

My thousand mile thoughts, not seeing it - there is a purple and a blue wire going to the front lights. I wouldn't think this is the problem, but is it possible you connected to the purple wire when wiring it directly? If you had, and had tried turning on the parking lights with the headlight switch, the lights would have come on at that point.

It also looks like the flasher is a simple 2 wire switch. If you want to try rewiring it directly, pull the flasher out and jumper it. If the lights work with the flasher jumpered, then it will prove that the halo resistance isn't cutting it for the flasher and the electronic flasher would be needed. Alternatively, adding an in-line resistor might solve the problem. Anyway, these are the next things I'd check, based off your description and results vs the attached wiring diagram.

When I disconnected the blue wire shows a constant 12v. And flashes when hooked to the factory turn signal. When I connect the blue wire direct to the amber halo it shows only 6v when I activate the turn signal.

[dhutton]

Insufficient load for the flasher by the sounds of it. What led flasher are you using?

[souljaboy9768]

Insufficient load for the flasher by the sounds of it. What led flasher are you using?

I got them to work, I used a different led flasher with a ground. No issues, thanks team for putting me on track to correct.

[souljaboy9768]

Question maybe you can answer.

While I had the headlight switch on looking at the lights I noticed smoke coming from my dash….

I took the dash apart and noticed the headlight switch was smoking. Could this be a possibility because I didn’t install a resistor?

[Vimes]

No, that would be a direct short somewhere. The resistor is just to simulate the load the incandescent bulbs put on the circuit for the original flasher to work and the electronic flasher you installed took care of that.

You really need to track that down before going any further, as if it was smoking then something was getting hot enough to catch fire and burn your car and quite possibly your house down. Check all wiring everywhere you were working. The headlight switch is a very robust piece, more robust than the wiring feeding it, so you should be able to find scorched wiring somewhere.

Until you find it, I would keep the car battery disconnected unless you're present with it, and I wouldn't even leave it connected to run to the bathroom while working on it.

[dhutton]

The dash dimmer rheostat might be getting hot and smoking.

[csouth]

Glad you got them working.

[souljaboy9768]

I took the switch apart first appears that any of the terminals look bad. The coils were burning… I’m debating on installing a new switch and trying to activate the headlights to see what happens… what are you’ll thoughts on what steps I should take? I looked at the wires and they didn’t look bad nor did I see anything shorted out

[dhutton]

That coil is the variable resistor (rheostat) that dims the dash lights. It gets hot if you have the lights dimmed. It’s normal unless you for some reason added additional lights or loads to the dash light circuit. Only the dash lights should be on that circuit.

[souljaboy9768]

Well i screwed up, I smashed the #14 wire (Alternator Exciter) on the new ground I had installed for the Relays.

Then the hazards wouldn’t work. The led relay I installed for hazards needed the polarities swapped.

All in all, a learning experience. But all done Attachment 215948



Attachment 215948