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12-29-2024 #1
Issues with McLeod clutch master setup
Just wanted to see if any others are running the McLeod clutch master setup and if you’ve had issues. I have their bracket and pedal setup on my ‘68 with a T56 Magnum and a stock GM F-body slave cylinder, and have been having issues with excessive pedal “free play” and low clutch engagement; usually only when the engine is cold. Once everything warms up, the pedal feels great and that free play goes away.
wanted to see if anyone has dealt with this. It didn’t do it when it was new, but started acting up after about 4000 miles of use. I’ve pressure bled the system a few times, and I can’t imagine there’s any air in the system. No leaks anywhere and no fluid loss. My guess is the master seals aren’t working like the should until some heat gets into things. I guess it could be the slave, but I’m less suspicious of that. Any feedback is appreciated.Andy
1967 Camaro RS
Magnacharged LS1/T56
543 rwhp, 516 rwtq
Sold
1968 Firebird
LS427/570 and T56 Magnum

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12-30-2024 #2
Registered User
- Join Date
- Jun 2018
- Location
- SW Florida
- Posts
- 48
I chased a similar problem. I would bleed the system and it was fine, but as I drove it it started acting as if there was air in the system. Turns out the system was getting heat soaked and boiling the fluid cause vapor in the system. I used some DEI wrap on the lines and replaced the clutch fluid with Wilwood high temp fluid. Problem solved.
12-30-2024 #3similar, though mine seems to be the opposite. Worse when cold, great when fully warmed up. I actually preemptively covered the slave cylinder feed line with heat wrap when I was originally putting the car together. Seemed like a good idea even though the headers aren’t that close to it.
Something else I’ll add that I can’t seem to wrap my head around: When bleeding the clutch (either with a professional style pressure bleeder or the old school gravity feed/ pedal pump method), I’ll get air bubbles when doing a quick push and release of the clutch pedal. So I have the pressure bleeder going and there’s zero air bubbles coming out. While it’s bleeding, I get in the car and cycle the pedal and see bubbles. At first I thought it could be from the threads on the bleeder screw, but I submerged it in brake fluid and it’s coming out of the remote bleeder valve. It doesn’t make sense because I can’t ever get those bubbles to stop when cycling the pedal. If it were air, I don’t think I’d have a good pedal, and eventually it would all work its way out. Strange.
I may be replacing this setup with an under dash setup from Malwood, but wanted to check my options first.Andy
1967 Camaro RS
Magnacharged LS1/T56
543 rwhp, 516 rwtq
Sold
1968 Firebird
LS427/570 and T56 Magnum

12-30-2024 #4
Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2023
- Posts
- 24
If you haven't already I would phone McLeod and see what they say. I've had good luck with their customer service in the past.
It almost sounds like hard seals, and with a little heat everything's happy.
I swear I've heard something about this before. You might want to try posting on https://www.camaros.net/
12-30-2024 #5
I emailed them and we’re working on solutions right now. So far their theories were the master being preloaded (causing the fill port to be blocked or restricted) and/or heat causing the fluid to boil. I’m almost 100% sure I did not have any preload on the pedal/master, and my issue goes away with heat so I don’t think that’s the issue. I have DEI heat sleeve on my slave line, and it’s secured to the firewall with insulated clamps to keep it away from the header.
My thoughts are either an internal master issue or something like a restriction in the feed line from the reservoir to the master. I will say the supplied line feels a little soft and mushy. It felt that way out of the box though.Andy
1967 Camaro RS
Magnacharged LS1/T56
543 rwhp, 516 rwtq
Sold
1968 Firebird
LS427/570 and T56 Magnum




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