Whatcha workin on?

[79 Camaro]

Must be the time to put the snow tires on the Camaro. Over the last 3 days we got 12 inches of snow. Had to break out LS6 swapped Wrangler with a Western hydro turn plow.

[Bad Bowtie]

Workin on the wife's 68 Camaro, finishing up some wiring on the Dominator ECU and on to the interior seems like forever. My day job has to go but I keep on keepin on.

BB

[RHale]

Mini tubbing my 67 RS and learning a ton at the same time!

[79 Camaro]

So today I block sanded filler on two 1965 Cuda doors. I help at a body shop a couple days a week. Shoulders and back are a bit sore. Time for a cold one.

[Pedigry]

Had a backfire in the exhaust on decel. Lookit it up and schmoogle said it was an exhaust leak. I put new exhaust gaskets at the collectors and then tightened up all of the V band connections in the exhaust and the backfire went away. Though to be honest, I kind of liked the sound.

[Jk918]

67 firebird, removing 327 and M-20 for a LQ4 with all the bolt on goodies. Going tkx, and full front suspension with C5 brakes. Just trying to gather most of the major parts and sell the current drive train. Hope to have it going by August/September time frame.

[vicecrufoli]

Lately I just don't have any free time to spend on my car. All my free time is spent dealing with legal issues with the company, because I wanted to make sure that I have a Cyprus crypto license. This is a good start for running a cryptocurrency business in Europe. And while it can be difficult to get a crypto license in Cyprus, licensed companies have a number of advantages. That's why we are in constant negotiations with proffesionals. But I hope that in the near future I will be able to return to my favorite machine.

I'm sure you'll have all your questions resolved and will be able to start your favorite activity in the near future.

[79 Camaro]

The 80 is pretty much done.
A few pics.

[Pedigry]

Just ordered my replacement radiator. Stoked, my old one had produced a couple small holes in it and now my engine compartment is covered in antifreeze. I'll get the new Be Cool rad in the next couple weeks, install it and then proceed to clean my engine compartment. I purchased a hand held steam cleaner, which is pretty awesome. So i will tackle the engine compartment with the steam cleaner and see how it does.

[Cshenker1121]

Building a street strip 1972 Dart, 440” BB, Indy top end, hyd roller, Tci 727 , 4 link ect

Trying to get it as a roller before Christmas so we can put the motor and transmission in the car

[SPLATT71MC]

71 Monte Carlo.
New wheels and tires.
New engine and trans ready for install.
New exhaust.
Rebuild factory air conditioning.
Upgraded front discs with rear disc conversion.
Miscellaneous upgrades and repairs.

[JustJohn]

Clearing fallen trees.

[yellow1098Greg]

Installing the Holley easy fuel level sending laser unit…..haven’t been able to get my Dakota digital gauge accurate

[Pedigry]

Installing the Holley easy fuel level sending laser unit…..haven’t been able to get my Dakota digital gauge accurate

I swapped out my fuel tank and when I did, made sure both the sending unit and the gauge matched ohms and it still doesn't work right.

When it's full, it's correct. But then it drops too fast. It will show 1/2 tank at 3/4 and 1/4 at 1/2. I don't know what I am doing wrong.

Hopefull yours works well. I haven't seen the laser one but will look it up after this. Maybe it's an answer for me as well.

UPDATE: I just read reviews and many have stated it DOES NOT work with aluminum tanks. It might be the reflection from the tank, no one is quite sure. Most of us run aftermarket aluminum fuel tanks, so just a heads up. Here is the review. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-19-250/reviews

[Vimes]

I just read reviews and many have stated it DOES NOT work with aluminum tanks. It might be the reflection from the tank, no one is quite sure. Most of us run aftermarket aluminum fuel tanks, so just a heads up.

I wonder if having the fuel tank anodized might solve the problem for the laser sender. In any case, anodizing an aluminum fuel tank is a good idea as aluminum and ethanol do not play well together over the long term if the ethanol picks up a lot of moisture. And, ethanol naturally absorbs moisture.

When it's full, it's correct. But then it drops too fast. It will show 1/2 tank at 3/4 and 1/4 at 1/2. I don't know what I am doing wrong.

If I read your post right, you're using the traditional float and not this new fangled laser stuff. It sounds like your sending unit float arm isn't long enough if it's showing empty at half a tank. Check the float arm's range of travel, ideally you'll want it to be around 80 percent of the tank's height. If it's not moving enough a longer arm on the float. You may need to bend the arm around to get the range of movement correct in relation to the pump vs the top and bottom of the tank.

Personally, I like the tank showing empty at around a quarter tank actual. Fill-ups aren't quite as painful , and I don't have to worry about there not being enough fuel in the tank to keep the fuel pump cool. Plus I have a hundred miles or so of emergency range available if needed.

[Mark69bird]

69 Firebird
Slow and steady but yet not fast enough. Can’t wait to start driving it. Working on the mechanical end. Before painting.

[Pedigry]

I wonder if having the fuel tank anodized might solve the problem for the laser sender. In any case, anodizing an aluminum fuel tank is a good idea as aluminum and ethanol do not play well together over the long term if the ethanol picks up a lot of moisture. And, ethanol naturally absorbs moisture.



If I read your post right, you're using the traditional float and not this new fangled laser stuff. It sounds like your sending unit float arm isn't long enough if it's showing empty at half a tank. Check the float arm's range of travel, ideally you'll want it to be around 80 percent of the tank's height. If it's not moving enough a longer arm on the float. You may need to bend the arm around to get the range of movement correct in relation to the pump vs the top and bottom of the tank.

Personally, I like the tank showing empty at around a quarter tank actual. Fill-ups aren't quite as painful , and I don't have to worry about there not being enough fuel in the tank to keep the fuel pump cool. Plus I have a hundred miles or so of emergency range available if needed.

Yeah, I don't know about anodizing. One of the guys said that they roughed up the bottom of the tank with sand paper to try and difuse it but it didn't work. I was thinking a simple black sticker to stick to the inside of the tank but it would have to be fuel safe. IDK. I love the idea of the fuel sender but not willing to pull the tank, drain it, send it off for anodizing, etc. Seems like alot of work for a fuel sender.

I purchased the tank from "mustangstofear", its a nice tank. The sender came with the tank so I assumed that it would be correct but you know how that goes. I'll see if I can make it longer somehow. I will pull it and see what it takes to replace the float rod. Thanks for the advice.

- - - Updated - - -

69 Firebird
Slow and steady but yet not fast enough. Can’t wait to start driving it. Working on the mechanical end. Before painting.

Beautiful car. Keep wrenching brother, getrdone.

[Vimes]

I agree, I'd only mess with anodizing on a new tank. Laser floats are neat, but I view that as a solution searching for a problem. Old style fuel floats are accurate enough, cost much, much less and will outlast several fuel pumps. The only ones who actually NEED the kind of accuracy a laser float provides would be people who make their living off knowing to the ounce how much fuel they have. Anyone else, it's just a bragging point, not that there's anything wrong with that. Who here isn't building a toy to brag about?

The sticker idea got me to thinking - you could cut a piece of flat plastic cut out of an OEM fuel tank, probably 3-4 inches in diameter and epoxy that into the tank. That would likely give the proper reflection back to the sensor. It would add maybe 3/8 inch of height which wouldn't really make much difference.

When fiddling with the float rod, you may have to bend the rod down right at the sensor side, then back up about halfway down the rod in order to get the float to move correctly. How you bend it will depend on where the sensor actually is on the assembly, and where the top and bottom ranges actually are.

[Pedigry]

I agree, I'd only mess with anodizing on a new tank. Laser floats are neat, but I view that as a solution searching for a problem. Old style fuel floats are accurate enough, cost much, much less and will outlast several fuel pumps. The only ones who actually NEED the kind of accuracy a laser float provides would be people who make their living off knowing to the ounce how much fuel they have. Anyone else, it's just a bragging point, not that there's anything wrong with that. Who here isn't building a toy to brag about?

The sticker idea got me to thinking - you could cut a piece of flat plastic cut out of an OEM fuel tank, probably 3-4 inches in diameter and epoxy that into the tank. That would likely give the proper reflection back to the sensor. It would add maybe 3/8 inch of height which wouldn't really make much difference.

When fiddling with the float rod, you may have to bend the rod down right at the sensor side, then back up about halfway down the rod in order to get the float to move correctly. How you bend it will depend on where the sensor actually is on the assembly, and where the top and bottom ranges actually are.

Thanks Vimes,

I also thought about two magnets. Put one inside the tank and one of the back side. That should stop them from moving and should disperse the reflection. But I don't want to spend 150 bucks to find out. If it was a simple plug and play I might go for it, but it sounds like they need to address the problem.

The float style works just fine when it's calibrated correctly. I will mess with it. If it was only an 1/8 off it wouldn't bother me but it's over a 1/4 and like everything else on the car, I just want it to work properly. I just got my new radiator in so I have some wrenching to do this weekend.

[yellow1098Greg]

So the review on the laser is it went well….The gauge is a lot more accurate I believe, but Im still kind of testing….it bounces a bit while driving but there is a setting on it to slow that down…I just have to drop the tank again to do that….But with key on power it looks like it lines up right. Happy with it and at least I have a much better idea of how much gas I have…Plus the part is only 100$ right now