Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 3 of 3
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      1,464
      Country Flag: United States

      Gasket Matching To The Intake

      I have read some articles on matching the ports on the intake to the intake gaskets. They say with some practice it can be done by the home mechanic with the right tools. How much gains can you expect to see with gasket matching to the intake?? Is it worth the effort? Saw a good article on how to do it including telescoping an inch and a 1/4 into the port so that it produces a smooth transition. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

      Mark



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Posts
      130
      You want to match the ports on the intake to the ports on the head, not the gasket.

      Bret
      Bauer Racing Engines
      Specializing in late model GM motors

      1964 GTO (work in progress for 13 years)
      600 HP 365 cube SBC
      C5 Front Suspension
      Satchel Link Rear
      T56
      Not gettin done anytime soon

      2000 Camaro SS SCCA FS Car
      Koni Adjustables
      35mm Front Bar
      DOT Race tires....

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      I am porting heads for the first time right now with good results. You should not gasket match the intake unless you do the heads. You want an anti revesion step but not the opposite IE the intake port should be smaller than the head ports. Im not touching the intake but am doing the heads.

      It would be a minimal gain at best. guessing 2-3 HP for a stock head being opened up and a 1-2 hp gain for aftermarket with a fairly large port to begin with.

      Also a major problem with grinding on the intake is you can actualy hurt power buy disrupting the "AIM" of the intake side port. Another reason I wont touch it.

      A tip for home porting is just use a good drill motor that is comfortable to handle for a long time or use an electric die grinder which can be had for $25- $115 (cheap ebaymodel or Makita GEO-600).
      And start off with a good carbide bur like and ALUMA BUR or at McMaster carr they have the bur Im using which is a clog free 1/2 oval 1/4 shank.
      Im finding my dremal hand tool also a great tool to work with. Uses many sanding drums and gives you black boogers in your nose but works well for polishing and buffing with the dremal "abrasive buffs" ..

      PS dont use Dremal brand sanding drums you can buy 100pc bags from McMaster for the price of 10 dremal brands
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592


    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com