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    Results 1 to 20 of 33
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73

      Another Moneypit '68 Camaro

      Well, I'm getting back into the game. I've tossed around enough money into my old '50 chevy pickup, and its time to do something different. This is the exact car in high-school, I never thought would leave the hands of my best friends dad. It was his childhood hot rod, a solid roller big block that spins "8200rpm" that was built in thr late 70s. lol. In the early 2000s, he traded a 55 chevy sedan for a pretty decent paint job, they dropped the big block in, and there it sat since then. I had actually planned on driving to Detroit to pick up another 68 with all new sheet metal for a steal of a deal. He got wind that I was picking one up, and I gave him crap for making me drive 1500 miles round trip to pick up the same car he's got. He was pretty intoxicated and his son, my friend, pushed the subject of me just buying his for a few grand more. Lol so he called me and offered it. I was ecstatic. So, I turned around, loaded it up, and now its mine with a ttitle in hand!

      Pretty sure the big block is coming out as I'd be changing everything about it anyways. But its in real good shape with just a few tiny pinholes in the floor pans. As cheap as a full floor is, I might just go that route.




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      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Plans are going to be pretty repetitive for what you guys are used to, but a fun 68 that can have fun at the track, and cruise all day long on the interstate with a stereo and air conditioning has always been a dream.

      I talked with Rodney Prouty with Suspension Geek, and he pretty much sealed the deal on what its getting.

      -Ride techs rear bolt in 4 link kit with the viking double adjustable coilovers,
      -DSE deep tubs,
      -ride tech front suspension as well with the tru-turn front end.
      -big brakes brakes front and rear
      -275/30/18 and 18x10 fronts
      -335/30/18 and 18x12 rears.
      -500ish hp LS and a T56.
      -vintage air
      -not sure on wheel brand, but Forgeline gA3 would be the No.1 choice, but man! $$$.
      -smoothed firewall, possibly a new full floor,
      -lizard skin sound and ceramic spray
      -stock deluxe interior
      -paint, will probably stay purple until last as I love purple (as you can see from my 50), but I'm letting the wife decide a bunch of the stuff on this one.
      Attached Images Attached Images            
      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Posts
      35
      Country Flag: United States
      you mean your not keeping the rear wheel setup and airshocks lol ? looks like a solid start for sure.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Lol, I'm surprised they still hold air! This next week I might try to fire up the big block just to see what it sounds like. Then, the front clip is getting taken off, motor out, subframe off, and ill start on some of the metal repair to get it ready for undercoating.
      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2012
      Location
      Kansas City, Missouri
      Posts
      546
      Country Flag: United States
      Mabye it shows my age but always loved side pipes.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,514
      Country Flag: United States
      The Camaro looks pretty nice, The paint on the 50, Wow nice.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Thanks man! The 50 has been with me for just over 20 years now. Hopeing to be done spending money on it, and start tuning and enjoying it. I have a set of 12.88" wilwoods that ill be throwing on over winter though.

      Little rundown, fully forged 370 lq4, custom TKM cam, 417 motorsports air to water intercooler, holley EFI, rmvb th400, rear mount billet s491 forced inductions turbo, e85, and planning on a conservative 1000whp, but should have 1300+ capability. It cruises around like any other hot rod, its just really too loud.
      Attached Images Attached Images          
      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,149
      Country Flag: United States
      You HAVE to leave those sidepipes on there!!!

      Really nice truck,
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LS1 T56, 12bolt 3:90's, C5/LS1 brakes IROC box, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green,Spearcos,


      http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=475228 some pics

      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Got about 10 hours in on this thing. Made a cradle tomroll around the body, but quickly found out I'm gonna need to get it on a rotissary. Oh well, now I can fit all my toys in the garage. Motor, trans, and side pipes are gone and sold, the front subframe is square and clean. I got the floor all cut out. Spot welds all ground smooth, and its got a coating of weld thru on it awaiting the new floor. Ill be ordering the full floor, seat supports, firewall, and the dse deep tubs probably all today. Just need to find out who's got the best price and availability.
      Attached Images Attached Images          
      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      AL.
      Posts
      5
      Country Flag: United States
      Call Kim at Matt's Classic Bowties - 866-628-8746 They are are pleasure to deal with.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Yep, I talked with a lady at mcb. She was great to talk with. She actually suggested calling classic industries for the floor because they don't stock the floors currently and their shipping price makes it almost double of classic industries.
      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Sheetmetal showed up!! Full floor, seat supports, AC firewall as that was the only one in stock, and some dse tubs.

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      Floor is in and welded, minus the frame rails. Ill wait to weld those after I get it on the rotissary to undercoat it. I stitch welded the top of the floor for added strength of a weld in more places than just the spot welds. Firewall is 90% cut out, and i should have that welded back in fully yomorrow. Then on to the tubs!

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      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Got a set of 315s for mock up and roll around.

      I REALLY wanna make these fit the FRONT. And get a set of 335s for the rear. I know cpp was in the process of making a weld in kit for making a 315 fit the front of a stock subframe, but scrapped the idea. Anyone know why?

      I will be going with the full ridetech True Turn. I'm down to cut and fab some tire room if need be, but is it that simple?

      I've also seen guys on the 67-68 camaros fit 335s in the rear with dse tubs, but they say something extra is supposed to be done. Any tips to prepare for there?
      Attached Images Attached Images        
      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      321
      If you trim the entire fender lip on the rear (and reinforce it with round stock) you should be able to fit a 335 in the rear. I'm fitting 335 on the rear of a 67 without any issues.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Good to know. Might try to cut the lip down without having to do any paint work. Gonna try to leave the body and paint alone for a few years and run it this way. As its a 20 footer. I will end up doing at least thr passenger rocker and a hood when the time comes, but I just wanna make this thing curve while staying fairly budget minded.

      Firewall is fully welded in with the seam fully welded. I just gotta make a patch for the factory ac hole.

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      Its looking like BC Forged LE10 or TD01 will be the wheel choice. Still gotta decide on wheel widths.

      The Wilwood 12.88" 6R fronts and 4R rears just showed up, but I gotta hit the road for a few weeks, so I can't play with those.
      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Feb 2021
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      27
      Country Flag: United States
      This classic car is slowly getting back to life. I can't wait to see its wheels mounted in the new set of tires

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Well, I've been gone for a while, so progress is minimal. But, I did get the brakes in. Wilwood 12.88", 6 piston fronts with the 1pc rotor, and 4 piston rears with the 2 piece rotors. Should be more than enough to get things started.

      Also started on the deep tubs today. Only a few hours in, but hopefully ill have em all cut out and the new ones ready to go in tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

      Also found out today that the guy who did the body work on this completely botched the quarter repair. So, when this gets a paint job, it will be getting both quarters, both outer wheel tubs, both outer rockers, and a roof skin. Smh. Pig in lipstick.
      Attached Images Attached Images            
      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,291
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking great! Wow you work quickly! Take a bunch of pictures if you can when you install the DSE mini-tubs. I'm planning to do mine this winter.


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Posts
      73
      Thanks! I try to get a good 3-4 solid work days every month. The tubs are sure taking longer than I'd hoped, but I'm taking my time not to rush it.

      Still have some minor trimming to do on the rear slope of the shock tower, but its close. When I clamp the tubs top pinchweld to the factory pinchweld, theres almost 3/16 gap from front to back. So that will be perfect when I weld in the 1/8" plate patches. Currently as it sits, theres roght at 14.5" of clearance from the tub to the inside lip of the wheel well.

      Only part I dont care for is how huge the gap turned out to be at the rear corner. I followed the template and directions to a T, but theres about an inch gap at the corner ill have to fab up. And the fitament front the underside at the rear pinchweld is kinda wonkey, but I'll make it work.
      Attached Images Attached Images            
      http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q47/tim_bo16/004-24-1.jpg

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      1,295
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice work! Love to see all the progress pics. Looks like you started with a pretty nice candidate.

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