1972 Buick Turbo LS Pro Touring - Garage Made

[lwilliams]

Nice build!! Subscribed!!

Where are you located?

Thanks!

I am in Red Deer, AB.

[lwilliams]

Who's care is sitting on its own weight for the first time in like 4 years, this guys!!! For reference again these are C5 Z06 wheels 18x10.5 and 17x9.5, 295/35/18 and 265/40/17. Once the tires get roasted I will likely go to 305's in the rear and probably snag the 18x10.5's C5 z06 reproduction wheels my buddy has and run a 295 up front or stick to a 275 wide up front on these rims, but that is a decision for the future. The adapters i used are 2" all the way around.



Still have to do some slight massaging on centering the rear end (its a little tight but still some space between the tires and fender lip). Anyone know what a reasonable amount of space should be between the fender lip and rim/tire?

I'll likely just trim them at some point, makes way for some 305 tires in the future. The front sits a little higher than i would like but i was thinking i also don't have all the weight on the front yet (oil, trans fluid, coolant, torque converter, power steering fluid, hydro boost, master cylinder, front bumper-hood-grill-headlights etc) so i will wait on messing with any of the suspension just yet until i have all the weight on the front.

i did get a little bit started on the drivers front seat fab. First i made as shallow a cut as possible to just peel away the floor that sits over the braces. Didn't really know what was going on under there so i didn't want to make a blind cut.




once that was exposed and i had a better idea of what i was looking at i cut out the body support where i needed to. For the upper most one i wasn't worried about supporting it because there is that big extra body mount from the hellwig frame brace kit that sits right there. On the other body brace i put a jack and some wood under it and sat just enough weight on it that it was snug but not that the car was actually sitting on it with a ton of weight. i just wanted to support it essentially.



Then i cut out those portions of the body braces. the one to the front of the car can get trimmed just a little more (like an 1/8" or so). But i want to keep just a little bit of room between the support piece i will weld in and the body mount.



Once the braces were cut out i also trimmed part of the seat plastic so that it would fit over the little hump of the body brace (one closer to the fire wall. i only took a little bit off, may need some more once i actually get them mounted and the carpet in but i didn't want to get to crazy right away with trimming them.




Once that was trimmed, I could mock the seats up in place and they are now centered with the steering wheel. Before i sat like an inch or so to the right of the steering wheel. Would have been hella weird driving that way. That being said i would say that the body brace cutting is really not necessary if you are not a tall guy ( i am 6'2"), I need to cut them out so i can fit the seat a little lower and move them in the right position in the car and then i sit in a perfect position for me. i would think that if you are in the 5'10" range it is likely you can leave the body braces as is and just mount the seats on top of them!

Also, i put the car on its weight after cutting these braces. i wanted to make sure that there wasn't any issues after cutting the braces so i measured the gap of the braces while supported and then without any support and there was no change. should make a little bit of progress over the next week or so and hopefully have the seat all set in. will have to cut out part of the trans tunnel that i still have opened as it has to be modified too from when it was cut like 2 years ago.

[lwilliams]

made some progress on the body bracket/floor modification. I didn't want to just weld in a plate, i wanted to make some cross sectional area so this was stronger. Can't say i really like doing this stuff cause it is just super tedious. lot of cut fit, trim fit, trim some more, trim here trim there until it all fits. but some progress none the less. Don't worry i am not putting any fabricators out of business.

I found making some card board templates first and then cutting them out of steel helped for sure. here is a pic for the plate tacked into the brace closest to the actual body mount.



some of the card board templates and the plates that go between the body brace and the plate close to the body mount.



i did end up bending most the tabs and you will see how they fit the brace i thought this would be a good way to put everything together.



Here is how those pieces fit together on each of the body braces.




A little weld filling happened here.


Once i had those two pieces tacked together i made a couple other pieces for the sides of the mounts to essentially box it in once i put a top plate on it. I only have the more forwarded brace with the side tabs in at the moment. Once they were all in i fully welded as much as i could on all braces. Welds are by no means something to write home about., It is a really tight space and awkward at times to get in the with the welding gun. I was also having a ton of issues with my wire feed. It always seemed either to slow, to fast, like it was getting caught on things etc. I finally opened up the welder and saw the the wire spool was getting pinched. Once i fixed this tacking the top plate to box everything in was much better and the welder was behaving normal again.




That it for now. i am hoping that i don't run out of welding gas and can finish up the rest of the body brace stuff and then close up the floor. If i don't run out of gas i think i should have it all buttoned up by the weekend and then get some brackets made for the seats and get them installed.

really looking forward to getting this done, this tedious fab jobs are exhausting at times.

***Looking for some advice and opinions here. Should i just weld the floor to the body brace support i made or weld a piece over the body brace like the floor originally was and just put in some spot welds like it was from the factory? I am thinking that if i just welded it all together (fill in the gaps of the floor with metal welded to the brace itself) as one unit instead of doing the spot weld stuff it would make it stronger. Then again i'm not a fabricator. thanks in advance for the suggestions!

[lwilliams]

Seats are in! Can't say this was actually a lot of fun getting this step completed. I would think i easily have like 30+ hours into this part of the car. What was thought to be quick, simple, easy was definitely not quick or simple. I also think i had that drivers seat in and out of the car like 80 -100 times measuring, mocking it up, test fitting etc.




from where i left off last time i ended up cutting off that top plate and going back in and welding the space between the brace and the floor and then i made the executive decision to just seal the floor to the brace itself.



the next two pics are the floor and braces all tacked together on the drivers side ( i did end up fully welding them in). This was a ton of work and a constant cut, trim fit each piece until it was right. I was frustrated a lot of times. i counted and just on one of the body brace/floor sections there was 13 pieces to put in. glad this was done.



Once that was all done i moved on the the mounts and seat brackets. this is an initial look at what i had going on. I did end up removing the 1x1 square tubing cause it looked lame and i think with what i finished with will be stronger. this was the first rendition of what the brackets and mounts looked like before i welded the two larger metal mounts to the floor.


mounts welded to floor



once i had this all set make sure to face palm moment yourself as you didn't notice that the seat was hitting a part of the floor that made it sit way to high. Face palm self again as you run out of welding gas and cutting wheels. Face palm self for a third time as you have to cut down the floor mounts you just fully welded in to get the seat height right.

here is a pic of what the mount looked like after a cut them down and welded them back together i also welded a 5/16 bolt to them that the seat brackets bolt to. i used 5/16 hardware every where as that was the stock mounting stuff to begin with.



All in all at the end of it this is what the mounts and seat brackets on the drivers aide all looked like. pretty good seat position for me (im 6'2) and i stare out of the windshield a little above the midline of the windshield. I again made a mistake on measuring and had to weld some spacers to the mounts on the inboard side to get everything to sit right. used a bunch of washers to get everything to sit right as well.




on to the passenger side, in relation this side was a cake walk compared to the drivers. i could have cut up the body braces again to get the seat to sit perfectly center but it is quite minimal and not of any real concern. i did convince some of the floor to move a little bit with the mini sledge to get everything to fit just that much better.



Don't have pictures of these seat brackets but they are real similar to the drivers side ones. both of the outside locations (driver and passenger) mount in the stock location. The inboard side on the passenger i drilled through the flow and body brace and have a bolt, washers, nut run through there. same as the factory stuff basically. Just used some washer to get the brackets level and such and it all bolted together.

End result, they look good and feel well and also are bolstered really well. Went through a ton of welding gas, like 6 cutting wheels, multiple trips to the hardware store for bolts, washers, nuts and even burned through a coat. May or may not have lit myself on fire slightly as i was firing sparks at a cotton dickies jacket. Someone would have pissed themselves laughing if they saw me trying to get this fire out slash trying to get this jacket off. Maybe i should set up a camera in my garage?

At the end of it i wouldn't do it again, way to much tedious work. and the project switched from fun and exciting to just something i didn't look forward to. not having to cut up the body brace and floor i don't think it would worth it.

Next step is to get that mess of a wiring harness put back together (you can see it at the feet of the drivers seat here), front bumper, grill headlight bezels and headlights all put in.



On to better and more exciting things now. Will definitely have it running in the winter or spring this year with the terminator x max!

[lwilliams]

thought i would also add. I bought a respirator about 2/3 of the way through the seat stuff. I have used no masks, N95's, other face masks and the respirator is by far the best for a few reasons. This one is good for welding fumes and silca approved (what ever that means). But if i didn't where a mask i could blow my nose after being in the garage and it is just pure black nastiness. Wearing the respirator there is virtually nothing or a very small amount of black stuff. Soooooooo worth it. It also fits under my welding helmet. Another serious bonus to it is that wearing the respirator does not fog up any of my face shield, safety glasses or the welding helmet which the other face mask did really bad. Highly, highly recommend anyone get one if they are doing any sort of grinding/welding projects. Ill never not have one again.

Got this one from princess auto for 55$ and it has replaceable filters i can buy.

[64G-lark]

Nice build. I have a soft spot for Buick’s. Keep the updates coming.

[lwilliams]

Nice build. I have a soft spot for Buick’s. Keep the updates coming.

Thanks! Getting closer to hopefully driving this thing!

[lwilliams]

Starting to look more like a car and a little less like a project! Got most of the interior back in the car, check out that rear seat Buick luxury (circa 1972). A little dirty from sitting for the last number of years but a quick clean and it is ready to go. I also have a brand new headliner that i originally got when i purchased the car as well as some brand new weather striping, window fuzzies and such. Too bad the headliner is white too. Will eventually switch it all over to black. Once you go black bucket seats you never go back! Gotta love the ashtray on each side in the rear of the car, really useful back when smoking was considered healthy.



A little blurry, but you get the idea. When i get the interior installed i might actually try this out in the car to see what it looks like on black interior. It would help to make the inside of the car brighter and not totally black and dark. Open to suggestions here too!






Also got a bunch of the front end assembled bumper, grill and semi-mounted the head light bezel's. I am missing four of the retaining nuts and a few headlight springs. They are on order from my local shop and then the front end will be buttoned up. love seeing it really starting to take shape!



Picked these up from my local shop when i ordered that other stuff. nothing crazy. Flexible trans dip stick for the 4l60 and a lokar 36" throttle cable. I need to either get a stock cable bracket or make one myself. maybe get it in this weekend.

[lwilliams]

Finally got to some more progress on the car. putting those seats in killed me on the motivation side of things. But back in the swing of things now. I got the throttle cable installed along with the dipstick for the trans nothing to exciting about either so i don't have a pic. However I did install a new steering wheel, built a crossover pipe to connect both sides of the exhaust and cut and rewelded the manifold that holds the turbo so now the exhaust turbine points right to the spot where the exhaust will feed under the car.

The steering wheel is a grant D-shaped one. Nothing expensive here i honestly think its like one of the cheapest ones they make. its a 13.75" x 11.25" i think. It is sooooooo much easier getting in and out of the car now. The flat bottom on the D-shape is to account for that. I don't have any of the steering box hooked up to any steering linkage but even just rotating it from lock to lock compared to the original wheel is a huge improvement!






Here is a little bit of the mod that I did to the current log manifold. Essentially cut the 45 degree elbow way down on its and angle. now the exhaust turbine points so i should be able to just run a straight pipe down and under the car instead of having to make an offset.




Next was the crossover, it is all 2.5". i attached a vband to the 45 degree on the log manifold, which was easy enough. For the drivers side i re-used the stock truck manifold. I cut the flange off of it and welded a 2.5" straight pipe to it in the orientation that made sense to align with the crossover then welded a vband on to that. To weld the manifold I threw it on the BBQ for about 25-30min till it was hot. then i welded the pipe to it and as soon as i was done wrapped it in a whole bunch of towels and just let it sit. it welded up pretty nice and it took about a good 2 hours to really cool down to where i could handle it.





Then i worked on hooking the two sides together, be prepared for the worlds most unnecessarily long flex pipe for this type of crossover. DISCLAIMER: i was trying to make this crossover with just one 45 degree bend, 2 90 degree bends and then the length of flex pipe and what ever length of the legs from the bends i got.

So it is a 90 coming off the drivers side pointing to the passenger side which meets up with the flex pipe.





then it was a little bit of straight pipe to another 90 on the passenger side followed by the 45 degree and some straight pipe to meet up with the 45 degree on the log manifold.





It all turned out really well and honestly wasn;t as difficult as i thought it was going to be only one problem.... it is WAY too low haha. Like i said i only had a few bends to work with. But i looked it over and just a couple more 45 degree bends to push it back and i can tuck it up a whole bunch better under the trans oil pan and the bell housing. I may even ditch the long flex pipe for a piece of straight 2.5" and put another small flex pipe some where else.



Some exciting stuff coming along though. I am likely getting the actual turbo that will go on the car. Friend of mine is checking it out Monday and if all goes well he will grab it for me. It is a 7875 billet vs racing turbo. The guy i am buying it from only had about 1500km on it so hopefully everything checks out and it is in good shape.



I have also ordered exhaust parts some have come and some i am waiting on. I am pretty excited about this. I am going to run a single 3" all the way, however once the exhaust comes off the turbo and under the car i am going to run a y-pipe. one side will feed the normal exhaust and then the other side i am going to hook up to a loud valve. I got a standard 3" magnaflow muffler that should be pretty tame for the most part, this will be nice when just driving around and on the highway, my wife and kids will also be in the car with me so i don't want it to be so obnoxious that they don't want to sit in it.Then when i get on it hopefully it sounds like all hell is breaking loose! For those unfamiliar with a loud valve it is an exhaust cutout but is boost referenced with a diaphragm that opens the valve. so it will start to open around 1-2 psi and then be fully open around 6psi of boost.

https://loudvalves.com/products/3-5-...nt=32909551436


So far i have got the muffler, y-pipe and vbands. Just waiting on the bends and flex pipe to show up which should come monday. I have about 5' of 3" exhaust tubing from an old project laying around. Will send pics when this is put together. once that is put together i will likely work either on the loud valve part or order the intercooler piping i have decided on and get working on running that since i will hopefully have the turbo for the car. I am also going to have the waste gate (likely just a 50mm vs racing) welded directly to the turbine housing. It will fit really well in the car that way and then i can easily run a tube right back into the exhaust.

here are some pics of the exhaust stuff i have so far. hopefully will have it at least all tacked together by the end of next weekend!

[andrewb70]

That's a lot of progress! Nice work.

[lwilliams]

That's a lot of progress! Nice work.

Thanks should hopefully have the full exhaust, hotside and cold side all put together by mid summer. cheers!

[lwilliams]

Made some headway on the down pipe and exhaust. Coming together pretty good. I need some exhaust hangers and just ordered some today, should be here Thursday. Also picked up my turbo, its that 7875 billet vs racing turbo. here is a pic!

Fabing up the down pipe was pretty straight forward just a couple 45 degree bends with some straight lengths.




The turbo doesn't sit quite level and is tilted back a little bit. so the angle coming down isn't level so i just had to cut in a little pie cut to make it level to the ground/car. First pic you can see that the flex pipe is angled towards the ground. next pic is the pie cut to level it out.



Got it all levelled out and then lined it up to go under the trans crossmember, the nagle of it would have the exhaust running into the drive shaft so i made another pie cut to send it straight back and run parallel to the drive/shaft frame.



once it was lined up i put the y-pipe on then a small straight piece and the muffler. also put a 45 degree bend on the loudvalve side of the y-pipe to see where it would come out and it looks like it would line up and point right at the rear tire so that works out well (i'll set it to point in front of the tire not at it). i am actually going to cut the small piece of pipe tacs between the y-pipe and muffler off and put a long piece of pipe there then i can tuck the exhaust up a little better.



That's where it is at so far. waiting on those hangers and then once it it is fully welded and the hangers are on i will start working on the tail pipe section. Some pics of the stuff all tacked together.




***looking for some input here, are people running 45 or 90 degree bends over the axle and out the back or a combo of both?***

[lwilliams]

I have not been updating this in a timely fashion, but have definitely been making some progress. Got all the exhaust done and got a v-band clamp to put the loud valve on, I actually have to weld another flange on to the existing flange to fit the clamp on, other wise the clamp runs in to the diaphragm (don't have a pic for this yet) . Ended up just running the exhaust under the axle.


got some rear shocks installed too. QA1 single adjustable. A buddy gave me his coil over brackets he was using and i did some measuring and found these shocks fit great. They are poly bushing instead of spherical but not the end of the world. I am just not a fan of putting all the rear end weight on that small corner of the rear frame so i went the spring and shock separate route. Damn do shocks make a difference in the softness/stiffness of your suspension!

This is the lower bracket, just had to drill one hole in the axle bracket, it also ties into the lower rear control arm.


Pic of the shock and upper shock bracket


Did some intercooler and piping work too. My intercooler was actually able to fit (with some core support trimming) right in front of the radiator without having to run the piping under the rad support and up to the intercooler.


The inlets on the intercooler line up like the photos below, so just a little bit of trimming the core support so the piping can run to the inlets. Then i mounted the top of the intercooler to the plate that sits on the rad support to hold hte radiator in place.

Inlets


top mounting holes, can see the bolts holding the intercooler in the second pic



I made a few brackets that I just welded to the core support that then bold to the bottom mounting holes of the intercooler just done have pics.

Next I just started fitting all the piping together and also got a filter along with a 4" 45 degree extension to try and fit the cone away from the radiator. some pics of all the piping.


Got the steering linkage put together too. Buddy had a bump steer kit he took off his chevelle so i just swapped it on to my car. bought a new pitman arm (normal gm a body arm that goes on the JGC steering box), idler arm and center link.


Moved on to getting the BOV and waste gate installed. Have to get these welded by a buddy as the turbine is cast iron and i cannot weld the aluminum pipe. the BOV is going on the 90 degree that feeds into the throttle body. both the BOV and waste gate are 50mm from vs racing. I am running the waste gate directly off the turbine. it is the easiest place to set it for space and ease of access.



Also have a Stage 1 summit turbo cam kit (cam, springs, valve seals, keepers) that i have to install. its just sitting on the bench, hoping to get the cam and springs all installed this weekend.

[andrewb70]

Taking some notes for my 70 GTO turbo project.

[lwilliams]

Made some more progress and got the cam and springs all swapped in. Nothing new from any other cam/spring swap in an ls but here is my process in case it helps someone else. First time that I have ever done a cam swap, went real smooth I would say. I watched this link from sloppy mechanics a few times to get a good idea on what i was doing. I would have to say anyone could honestly don one of these swaps. Here is the link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j74MxGo7GfU

First thing I did was pop the valve covers off and tackle the rockers. Because the heads are aluminum i made a point to loosen all the rocker bolts by hand. I didn't want to mess up the aluminum heads in some way and then be in a pickle.

Cracked all the bolts and loosened them off, and took them out (10mm)


Then pulled them all out at once along with the "rocker stand"... not sure if that is what it is called.


I took the push rods out and put them into a box in order for where they would go back. I don't think you have to do this at all as i have seen countless people just pull the rods and random and stick them back in at random too. Just my OCD with this part i guess. you can see one side looks super clean and the other is like caked on oily tarnished. Asked a friend about this and he said that it is due to the PVC system being on the passenger side. The clean ones are on teh Passenger side, same thing for the inside of the valve cover and the rockers.


Front cover was off and that exposed the cam gear bolts (10mm) to take them out.


once the cam gear was out of the way it exposed the cam retaining plate (10mm) forgot to take a picture of this but 4 bolts and it comes right off. Now the cam is exposed. Water pump bolts thread right into the cam too. I used to of them to give me some extra leverage removing the cam shaft. Before pulling it out i spun the cam around a bunch of times to set the lifters into their trays. Then put 5/16" wooden dowels through the two holes that you see in the picture. This keeps the lifters from falling out of the tray when swapping the cams out. lots of people do it this way and it seems pretty flawless. Once all that is in place i pulled the stocker out.


Here is the stock cam, never inspected one before but from what i have read/seen in other videos all looks to be fine. I followed the sloppy mechanics rule and never checked out the cam bearings, because that way they will be totally fine haha.



Lubed up the new cam with some ultra slick, the cam is a summit racing stage 1 turbo cam 8715R1. Went back and forth between the stage 1 and stage 2, (like more chop just like the next guy). However a buddy is making like a 1000whp awd typhoon and running a stage 1 cam along with like a 200-300 shot of nitrous in a 5.3l. So that convinced me to just run the stage 1 route. it will be a better daily driver cam anyways which is what this car will be like 90% of the time.


New cam installed. Put water pump bolts into the new cam too for some leverage and put it in to the engine. yanked the wooden dowels and put the retaining plate back on. Next was to line up the cam gear with the crank gear. there is a dot on the cam and crank gear. when the cam gear is pointing straight down and the crank gear dot it pointing straight up these dots need to be pointing right at each other.


Cam dots lined up


Next I moved on to the springs (replaced the valve seals too). This is the tool that i used, got it from Texas Speed. 45 USD or about $110 by the time it made its way to me up Canada. here is the link https://www.texas-speed.com/p-7648-t...-tool-kit.aspx As the heads are still on the engine i had a leak down tester and a hose from it that i used to thread into the spark plug hole and fed some compressed air to keep the valves from falling. I used 50 psi. It bolts to the existing rocker stand, also bolted one other rocker at the end of the stand just to keep the rocker stand aligned. you put a 3/8 wrench in to the side of it and just push it down just like the rocker does on the spring.



I used a magnet to take the stock keepers out. Don't have a pic for this as it is to hard to hold the magnet, wrench the tool down and take a pic. Put i compressed the spring and then used a magnet to get the keepers out.

once the keepers were out I removed the stock spring and kept the hat. this exposed the valve seal. I just used some small vice grips to pull out the stock valve seals then just pushed the new ones on.
old seal getting removed


no seal


new seal pushed on


next i put the new spring on with the stock hat


When using the tool for installing the new spring and new keepers it took a little finessing to figure out how it best goes back together. What I figured is that if you can have the spring/hat just clear the valve stem towards the outside of the engine it leaves enough space to get the new keepers in.

All installed


Once all the springs and rockers were back installed i poured a little oil over everything for a little help upon first start up. I did do the standard mild bang bang with a rubber mallet to seat the springs and such. torqued everything to spec. Cam retainer 18ft/lbs, cam gear bolts 22 ft/lbs, rocker arm bolts 26 ft/lbs.

I also got the cut out mounted... FINALLY! I was finally able to find just a vband clamp without the flanges that wasn't ridiculously priced. When I initially tried to fit it on there wasn't enough space to clear the diaphragm. So i welded another vband i had laying around to it to make it work haha. Fits now!





Thats it thats all! next will be the welding for the waste gate, BOV, charge piping and the front timing cover oil return fitting. My welder is gone for about another 2-3 weeks so i have to wait until then. Might try to pick up some LSA/LS9 injectors in the next few days for about $300 too, just need some spacers to make them fit (lots out there to choose from). Once the welding is done and I have injectors all I need is the holley terminator x max and we can get this pig fired up.

[andrewb70]

Good job! Let me know if I can be of service with the Holley EFI tuning.

Andrew

[lwilliams]

Good job! Let me know if I can be of service with the Holley EFI tuning.

Andrew

Thanks! Getting closer to having a driving car. I do have a few tuners local to me where i am at. cheers.

[ryeguy2006a]

Don't pay $300 for LSA injectors, I've bought several sets now for around $175 bucks. Check the FB groups for CTS-V's. Most guys are upgrading to a 850cc injector and sell the LSA for pretty cheap. Great progress by the way! Love my 8715 Summit Cam. I turned my idle down to 675 rpm, and it has all the chop I need. I get compliments on it all the time.

[lwilliams]

Don't pay $300 for LSA injectors, I've bought several sets now for around $175 bucks. Check the FB groups for CTS-V's. Most guys are upgrading to a 850cc injector and sell the LSA for pretty cheap. Great progress by the way! Love my 8715 Summit Cam. I turned my idle down to 675 rpm, and it has all the chop I need. I get compliments on it all the time.

I ended up getting the injectors, paid $250. I am up in Canada too so prices, even used parts, vary compared to the US. From an exchange perspective 250 x .7 = $175. So sounds like it’s right in the ball park. Thanks for the insight on the cam and idle speed! I’m getting super pumped about having this thing hopefully running in the next few months or so.

[lwilliams]

made some more progress on the weekend, picked up this B&M shifter for $350 brand new in the box. I had always been looking for one of these on kijiji and had pretty much never seen a complete one for like 3 years. so i jumped on this guy. Its a Pro Ratchet shifter. so it moves up or down one gear with each push. here are a few pics.





first things first is to mark out where the mounting holes go. i took the seats and the carpet out ten reinstalled the drivers. I just sat in the seat and found a comfortable spot for the sifter then marked and drilled the holes. once those are drilled you drill a lofty 1.5" hole (3" from the front most mounting hole) into the floor for the cable to go through.




Then take the shifter out to do a little work before the final install. add in the cable and attach it to the shifter with the e-clip, and bolt the shifter cable mounting tab to the shifter itself.




Bolt down the reverse light and neutral safety switches



And also knock out the pin in this hole (circled it red). These shifters come ready for 3-speed transmissions. knocking out this pin gives you one more slot to use with the four speed.



then, re-install the carpet and seats. cutout the carpet where the shifter bolts too and also make a cut right where the shifter cable goes through the 1.5" hole. Mount the shifter in place (you can see how bad I am at cutting the carpet for good fitment. the seats are no exception, i have absolutely butchered the carpet in this car).




add back the housing, shifter knob, gear selector indicator and the reverse lockout handle.



A little look of it installed along with the interior back in. Played around with the shifter and it will be awesome slamming through some gears when it is on the road!



Also picked up those LSA injectors. just waiting on the injectors spacer kit from ICT. The LSA injectors are shorter than the stock multec ones. this spacer kit adapts the injectors to the truck intake and spaces the fuel rails accordingly.
https://www.ictbillet.com/fuel-injec...r-adapter.html


Spacer kit should be here this week and then i will get those put into the intake as well. Next just comes welding the wastegate (and piping it back to the exhaust) and blow off valve flanges and the turbo drain fitting into the front cover of the engine. I have the drain set up ready to assemble once the fitting is welded on. then its the terminator x max and see how this thing will run! should have it going before the end of the year.