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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      972
      Country Flag: United States
      Is the front going to be near that wide also? Didn't realize the back wheels would be so wide.
      It'll definitely be hard to make that much stretch look good in that short of a space.
      This was another hair brained thought of an option since the body is pretty much a floorless shell anyway. Split the roof in the center, stopping the cut at the front windshield framing. Then slice the rear about an inch outside of the trunk line. Then you can flare the back out maybe 2 to 3"" per side at the rear door opening area. Then slice across the top of the quarters at the center of the new wheel opening, which will be roughly 70% wider than the width gain at rear of doors. Then taper rear half of quarter back a little and make the rear 2 to 3" wider per side.

      Just a thought that I been thinking on a while here. Would definitely give an aggressive look fitting to a mid engine car & make the flairout area at the wheels themselves less ridiculous looking. Since you have a floorless shell, this could be less work than it sounds like for the result it will give you, especially considering the difficulty of making that wide of a body flaring job look good.

      If you want to consider this option, take me a better high view picture of the top rear of the car. I know someone with a pencil & paper.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2017
      Location
      Omaha, NE
      Posts
      54
      Quote Originally Posted by jlcustomz View Post
      Is the front going to be near that wide also? Didn't realize the back wheels would be so wide.
      It'll definitely be hard to make that much stretch look good in that short of a space.
      This was another hair brained thought of an option since the body is pretty much a floorless shell anyway. Split the roof in the center, stopping the cut at the front windshield framing. Then slice the rear about an inch outside of the trunk line. Then you can flare the back out maybe 2 to 3"" per side at the rear door opening area. Then slice across the top of the quarters at the center of the new wheel opening, which will be roughly 70% wider than the width gain at rear of doors. Then taper rear half of quarter back a little and make the rear 2 to 3" wider per side.

      Just a thought that I been thinking on a while here. Would definitely give an aggressive look fitting to a mid engine car & make the flairout area at the wheels themselves less ridiculous looking. Since you have a floorless shell, this could be less work than it sounds like for the result it will give you, especially considering the difficulty of making that wide of a body flaring job look good.

      If you want to consider this option, take me a better high view picture of the top rear of the car. I know someone with a pencil & paper.
      So the front is going to be an inch or two narrower. Based off pictures I’m only about 2” wider each side than the roadster shop camaro. And they pulled off a really sweet look. I have a little more going for me, because I moved the wheels back 10” I will have more room to transition the shape back into the body I. The door area I am contemplating tapering front fender and rear quarter panels into the door. If that makes sense. When I first started the project I did have the same thought to cut the roof and back portion of the car down the middle to kind of hide how wide it was. I decided to go for a louder look in that aspect. Maybe on the next one I’ll do that. But if the person you know with the pencil might want to try their hand at the shape of the quarter panel, I would t be opposed. ��
      Dalton
      1979 Midengine Trans Am. “Transmarrow”
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...gine-LQ9-build

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      1,086
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by jlcustomz View Post
      Is the front going to be near that wide also? Didn't realize the back wheels would be so wide.
      It'll definitely be hard to make that much stretch look good in that short of a space.
      This was another hair brained thought of an option since the body is pretty much a floorless shell anyway. Split the roof in the center, stopping the cut at the front windshield framing. Then slice the rear about an inch outside of the trunk line. Then you can flare the back out maybe 2 to 3"" per side at the rear door opening area. Then slice across the top of the quarters at the center of the new wheel opening, which will be roughly 70% wider than the width gain at rear of doors. Then taper rear half of quarter back a little and make the rear 2 to 3" wider per side.

      Just a thought that I been thinking on a while here. Would definitely give an aggressive look fitting to a mid engine car & make the flairout area at the wheels themselves less ridiculous looking. Since you have a floorless shell, this could be less work than it sounds like for the result it will give you, especially considering the difficulty of making that wide of a body flaring job look good.

      If you want to consider this option, take me a better high view picture of the top rear of the car. I know someone with a pencil & paper.
      This makes the most sense to me personally... and I'm wondering why the A-arms are sooo long... I think if you cut their length in half and pull the tires to the center by half their width and then execute the mods above you'd have a more cohesive and visually appealing look to the car. I'm just not sure why you'd want to push the tires so far out when they're not twice as wide. I dig the wide body idea but I think a little refinement will go along way toward the finished product and make your metal shaping and blending of body lines a lot easier.

      Just my $0.02 since you asked... dig the idea! Keep pushing forward!
      SMSgt Ty Ingle, USAF
      "CF71" - Freedom Bird
      Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR Performance, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2017
      Location
      Omaha, NE
      Posts
      54
      Quote Originally Posted by OLDFLM View Post
      This makes the most sense to me personally... and I'm wondering why the A-arms are sooo long... I think if you cut their length in half and pull the tires to the center by half their width and then execute the mods above you'd have a more cohesive and visually appealing look to the car. I'm just not sure why you'd want to push the tires so far out when they're not twice as wide. I dig the wide body idea but I think a little refinement will go along way toward the finished product and make your metal shaping and blending of body lines a lot easier.

      Just my $0.02 since you asked... dig the idea! Keep pushing forward!
      Thanks for your input. I know I could have run shorter a arms then I wouldn’t have had to do any body mods. ( or at least very few) i am going for a little over the top look with the whole thing. The A arms are wide for a few reasons, with the wider arms every movement is a little more gradual. The long arms also allow me to keep the area looking a little less cluttered, I will just have the arms, tie rod and pushrod bars there. And lastly ideally you want your mounting of your wheels as close to the center of the wheel as possible, so to keep the width of the wheels out there for stability while not running a huge lip I had to run long arms.
      Dalton
      1979 Midengine Trans Am. “Transmarrow”
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...gine-LQ9-build




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