1964 Corvette Coupe

[brickwhite]

Greg,

Anything new

[FLYNAVY53]

nothing unfortunately

[OLDFLM]

Bro! We need our fix!

[FLYNAVY53]

I know, I know.....seems like every time I think I've got all the more pressing projects taken care of, something else pops up. The most recent "event", one of my kids managed to leave a bath towel draped over the faucet in our bathroom which left the water trickling out while we were away for two weeks. The water wicked up the towel, and all over the floor. So now I'm in the middle of a full master bath renovation and partial kitchen renovation to fix the damage. And much like any good car project, "While we're at it, we might as well also......"

[andrewb70]

...."While we're at it, we might as well also......"

This is why I am still not done with the GTO updates.

Andrew

[FLYNAVY53]

yea I've been following the GTO build.....very cool stuff.

Adding insult to injury, my "project creep" is related to the kitchen and bath disaster, not the car

[FLYNAVY53]

Greg,

Working on a brake issue on my c2,

Did you have any concerns when you moved to -3an hard lines with a 37 degree flare for your brakes?

I'm thinking of going the same route but there are some articles about single flare brake hardlines etc etc.

Apologies....just rereading some of the thread and realized I failed to answer....

So, my lines are all double flared using the Eastwood 37 degree double flaring tool. That being said, I use Nickel/Copper (NiCop) line that is more flexible than regular steel or stainless line, so even in a single flare application, its far less likely to fatigue crack over time.

[FLYNAVY53]

Ok, we're back in business....finally. Made the decision to go ahead and rewire the entire car while Im this far into it so I stripped all the wiring from the engine bay and the dash. Still need to pull the rear harness. I will be using a Hardwire PDM28 along with a flying lead harness from YourSpec.com. Ive got a lot of cool little integration touches for that set up to come in the near future. I also decided to pull all the old jute insulation and replace it with something new. Still looking for the best solution....Im mostly concerned about keeping the heat out of cabin as opposed to noise suppression. Open to any suggestions. Im also working my way though a seat mounting solution. So far Ive got Corbeau D172 brackets with their sliders, but to fit my Tillet B8 seats, I had to move the sliders wider than the as shipped set up, so Im still waiting on the 3/8" tubing I ordered to bend up new adjustment levers.

[FLYNAVY53]

I have started putting parts back on the car.....got the Detroit Speed wiper motor and headlight motors installed. The weight savings over the factory pieces is shocking.....I neglected to put them on the scale, but each individual motor is less than half the weight of the unit it replaced. The kits from DSE are very complete, but they're intended to integrate into the factory harness. Theres going to be a learning curve figuring out how to correctly wire these things with the PDM.

[FLYNAVY53]

The first little mod Im working on in the dash is the stereo. The factory radio is cool, but it's huge and heavy.....and occupies an unnecessary amount of real estate behind the dash. I also dont listen to the radio. So I wanted to use a stand alone bluetooth receiver, small amp, and two 4" speakers mounted where the factory 6x9 was.







I used the profile of the factory 6x9 and built a bracket in Fusion360 that would mount in the factory location but accommodate the 2 4" speakers. I ordered a sample from SendCutSend in fiber board to make sure all the dimensions are correct and once I verify its all good, I'll order the final piece in 1/4" aluminum. I'll drill and tap the mounting holes for the speakers so I can use 1/4-20 button head bolts with no nut on the back side so everything will be flush under the factory speaker grill.

[Vimes]

On the insulation - obviously you aren't going to want to skip sound insulation as keeping interior noise down contributes greatly to driving comfort and fighting fatigue. You don't want your car wearing you out or causing permanent hearing damage. Effective insulation also requires multiple materials to do the job.

For heat control, my plan is to add these ceramic spheres to paint and spray several layers on both the interior and exterior of my project. I've never tried them before, but the literature looks promising. Unfortunately it'll really need to be sprayed on the exterior as well as the interior, so when it goes to paint I'm going to ask the bodyshop to use the spheres in the primer every time they spray a layer on. If you decide to try this I'll be interested in your opinion. I won't be ready to use it for a few years at the rate mine's going.



I have used Thinsulate before, although not in a car; I've had jackets with a 1/8 layer of Thinsulate that was highly effective at temperature control down to about 20 degrees. They make a high temperature automotive application that should be very effective at temp control.

This probably won't work as well on a Corvette as in my truck, but for the large voids I'll be using Havelock wool which has an R4.3 per inch. I also want to hang an inch of this across the entire ceiling to keep the sun from heating the interior.

Second Skin also makes a mass loaded foam with a 4.45R value per inch, although its primary purpose is sound reduction.

I'll also be using Soundex foil lined foam where I can. This is a high performance, lightweight aviation sound insulation which is also fireproof. I'm also going to use aviation carpeting where I can on the interior. It'll cost a bit more but aviation interior materials are designed to be both tough and lightweight.

Hope some of this helps.