How do you pick shocks?

[derekf]

I don't mean full custom quintuple adjustable or even relatively nice coilovers, but Autozone-type price range because that's my budget.

I can just go buy stock front shocks for a 69 Chevelle. In this case, the cheapies are Gabriel G63832, with a collapsed length of 11.38in and extended of 17.16in.

My *assumption* is that if the car is lowered two inches, I'd need to look for something with a collapsed length of ~9-9.25 inches and an extended length that doesn't let the UCAs hit the frame? I know I'm missing all the "important" shock specs, like valving, but I doubt optimal setup will be available with this budget.

Am I assuming correctly, and if so, does anyone have a link to a searchable catalog so I can identify my shocks?

(edit: yeah, I didn't think about motion ratio)

[simon455]

I would look into newer mono tube design shock, ridetech would be my choice, little more than average
Parts counter shocks but not priced exotic either. They will make significant difference how the car handles and rides.

[derekf]

I've got 2-fold reasons for asking and why the ridetech shocks are not really what I'm looking for:

1. I want to be able to replace parts in whatever town I'm in if I have a failure on a roadtrip, rather than having to have things overnighted.
2. Looks like the RT shocks are $185 ea, vs. $185 for a set of parts store.

I'm sure they're all-around better... but not really my answer.

[Reckn8]

Adjustable shocks are really nice to be able to dial in the ride type that fits your type of driving.

[Motoracer838]

I've got 2-fold reasons for asking and why the ridetech shocks are not really what I'm looking for:

1. I want to be able to replace parts in whatever town I'm in if I have a failure on a roadtrip, rather than having to have things overnighted.
2. Looks like the RT shocks are $185 ea, vs. $185 for a set of parts store.

I'm sure they're all-around better... but not really my answer.

I struggled with the price thing, originally went with a set of KYB Monomax shocks on Frankenstien,
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...t-Frankenstein
wound up biting the bullet and spending the money for the ridetech's, the difference is simply amazing, I can't stress enough the difference quality shocks make. (wish I'd not spent the money on the KYB's, what a waste...) Fox/Ridetech know what they're doing with shocks, I'd worry about other things failing on a read trip before shocks...

If you insist on "parts store" stuff, go with Bilstien.

BTW a 2" drop will not result in a 2" shorter shock due to the leverage ratio the suspension put on the shock, you'll need to measure compressed and extended lengths to know what will reliably fit, topping or bottoming a shock will instantly kill it.

Joe

[marolf101x]

Joe,
First, thanks for the good words on our shocks (ridetech). We've spent a lot of time and effort making them the best at their price point. . .with a virtual lifetime warranty to boot! (1,000,001 mile warranty).

I would like to jump in here and clear things up a bit since the OP is concerned about shock failure.
The ridetech shocks can, and typically are, used as the extension limiter. So "topping out" the shock is no problem. There's actually a bump stop built into the seal head for just this purpose.
Also, the shocks can be "bottomed out" as well, typically without harm. There's a bump stop on the shock shaft that handles all of the lower force impacts. If the force is high enough to destroy the bump stop it's still not an issue as nothing inside the shock can hit, even at full heat and pressure. So if you bottom out the shock the upper spring cap/eyelet bash into the dust cap, which pushes on the shock tube, which pushes on the lower mount. So the force is directed through the strongest parts of the damper.

Here's a nice cut-a-way and some features of the impact forged body, but the two-piece body is essentially the same: