Charging wire from Alt

[XLexusTech]

Setup .. gen 1 Camaro, trunk mounted battery batt cable runs to disconnect in Trunk then straight run to 2 bulkhead connectors.
Positive goes to starter negative to block (additional grounds go to frame and dash )

Vintage air air front runner with single wire Alternator.

can I just run a 6 or 8 gauge wire from alternator to starter for charging?

[chpr1972]

On a stock system, the wire from the alternator goes to a metal wire connector [crimp] near the starter. I don't remember why it is not at the starter itsself. If you trace the wire from the original alternator you will find it about a foot from the starter IF my memory is right. I would run a #8 wire to that spot and tie it in with the same size wire to the starter. If you have a super alternator I would check with the manufacturer on recommended wire size. Mine is a 100 amp and I use a #10 wire. I had charging problems with the one wire alternator when I ran about 70+ miles with the radio, a/c , wipers, fans and extra power that headlites on. I was running about 1700/ 1800 rpm at 60 / 65 mph. The headlites started getting dim It charges better with a 3 wire.

[rocketrod]

http://www.madelectrical.com/newstuff/

[XLexusTech]

So yes? I note a selinoid in-line in the mad electric diagram

[dhutton]

I don’t see a solenoid between the battery and alternator in that drawing. I do see a junction block. Make sure you install a fuseable link in the charging wire.

Don

[dontlifttoshift]

Which alternator do you have?....doesn't matter, I would run at least a 6 ga, 4 would be better, then your charge back wire is future proof.

You can run it to the starter but I prefer the bulkhead.....I just don't like a bunch of wires hanging off the starter.

[AU Doc]

Whether or not this will work depends on whether or not you have a trunk mounted solenoid. You didn't mention one, so I assume you don't. In that case the starter wire is always hot, and running the alternator wire to it will work. At least it will charge the battery, thought it's not the best layout. You also need a distribution point at the front of the car, which is where you would normally tie in the alternator.

I like the MAD wiring approach because it gives you a well protected electrical system and does a good job of minimizing voltage drop. Though there are a lot of people that think it's overkill.

[XLexusTech]

I don’t see a solenoid between the battery and alternator in that drawing. I do see a junction block. Make sure you install a fuseable link in the charging wire.

Don

ST#1 is a remote solenoid

[dhutton]

ST#1 is a remote solenoid

But it is not connected in series with the connection between the alternator and battery. It is the starter solenoid. The so called Ford solenoid that a lot of guys like to install because they do not trust the solenoid mounted to the starter.

Your application does not need the solenoid. I would just ignore the entire diagram imho...

Don

[6'9"Witha69]

I have the MAD approach except without the remote solenoid in the trunk. You can charge to the starter post, I charge to a lug (CON-1 in MAD) then runa wire to the starter for charging. This way the remote voltage sense reads right from where the main harness, fuse/relay panels, and main charging all come together. By doing this, you buffer the battery charging than just going straight to the starter. And I use AWG8 for my charging and power transfer between sources.

[130fe]

Here is another good article to read concerning checking your electrical system. Which alternator are you running with that VA Front runner? There are a couple of different ones. The more recent versions are running a 170 amp Mech Man style alternator. I would look at the wire chart in this link, and go from there. You can't go too big. I bet you are looking at a 4 gauge size for your application.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/add...ng-your-chevy/

My friend (LS front runner first gen 68) was running the older 140 amp alternator they used to use. I don't know what gauge wire he was running originally. He started out with 14.0 volts on startup but he was having idle voltage issues under a load, like 12.5 volts (everything running fans, stereo and all the normal stuff). The information to find out is how many your alternator puts out at idle. He switched to the newer style one (it comes standard in the kit now) is I believe a 170 amp unit and put in a 4 gauge charging wire. He has no charging issues now. Voltage starts out at 14.5v or so and keeps a steady 14.0v throught running the car. He says he does get a momentary dip if there is a start load (like from a fan) but it goes back to around 14.0v.

I am having similar issues with my current LS setup. Was running a 02 C5 serp setup with a 105 amp alternator and had charging issues (and the alternator was used when I put the setup together). I replaced the alternator with a new C6 style one 140 amps- Similar results . The only thing I have not changed is that charging wire (from alternator to starter). Mine is a 8 gauge I believe. I am going to buy the proper size 4 wire and crimping tools to add this in. I believe this will solve all of my charging issues. I just ordered the new Holley Mid mount serp setup tonight so I will be starting with a new baseline. Hope this info might help you!

[badazz81z28]

Which alternator do you have?....doesn't matter, I would run at least a 6 ga, 4 would be better, then your charge back wire is future proof.

You can run it to the starter but I prefer the bulkhead.....I just don't like a bunch of wires hanging off the starter.

The factory systems have the alternator, the wire for the bulkhead fuse block spliced near the back of the engine and a single wire with a fusible link goes to the starter. I don't like running all that extra wire either. I put a junction on the firewall. The battery in the truck can be debated all day....I personally just run the heavy gauge straight to the battery without all the extra wires and relays. Just route the cable properly to avoid chafing and exposure to hot surfaces