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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      poconos pa
      Posts
      16

      control arm and spring questions

      car in question
      69 chevelle ss
      engine 496
      trans t56
      rear 12 bolt c clip elim 373 gears
      Ok i have done a lot of reading and i don't post much because i really do try to search my answers but this i can't seem to figure out. Now I dont race much anymore not sure if its because of my young family with no time but i do drive my cars pretty hard for fun. Lets start with control arms. So I went to the 3 places i usually go for parts i see a lot of options and i find a lot of packages. here is what i was looking at
      http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...rms,81680.html
      http://www.ss396.com/chevelle/UCA647...chevelle-parts

      are these ok to use for 3 or 4 days a week of street usage? No racing just street. I ask because i see so many options out there.



      Springs. For the past 3 years of driving my chevelle its such a bouncy ride even with new shocks. the ride is bouncy in the front because i have cut springs. I love the look and the cornering of the lowered suspension but i can't stand how bouncy it is. I am looking at some lowering springs for it but again so many options here is what i have selected
      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmr-sp030r

      to go with these shocks
      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bel-2209ih

      sorry for the long post


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Posts
      78
      I see you've had no responses. I'm looking for info on control arms myself.
      The "bounce" you say you have is most likely due to the shocks not dampening the spring. I've seen your racing vids on you tube, if you have drag springs in the front to get the nose up on launch, you will probably also get that bounce.
      I have a set of lowering springs in my '69 with a set of Bilsteins at all 4 corners and it has a nice firm ride with no bounce at all, it's actually really a nice ride.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      Chicago burbs
      Posts
      247
      Country Flag: United States
      The goal of replacing upper control arms is generally to gain better alignment specs for improved caster which helps steering feel and stability. The speedway ones you showed have"improved caster" they don't say how much.. and I couldn't see the other ones cause the work firewall locked it out lol.

      IMO, if you're not going to get improved caster/camber then ther'es no need to replace them. I am running the adjustable SPC uppers with a tall upper ball joint. this not only allows me to dial in my own alignment(not hard at all), but the tall bj corrects the camber curve, -those two pieces make a big difference. You might want to check out MArc at SC&C as he led me down the path of awesomeness.

      1969 442 6.0L LQ9 T56
      Fab9 w/ custom 3 Link conversion
      FAYS2 Watts link
      Thanks to Mark at SC&C for his honesty and passion for the sport, and Ron Sutton for the wealth of knowledge that has helped shape so many of the cars on this site.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Pittsburgh Pa.
      Posts
      651
      Country Flag: United States
      Empty pick up truck effect.. Sounds like the springs.. Talk to Marc at SC&C...

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Lawrenceburg, TN
      Posts
      4,098
      Country Flag: United States
      Bounce would be the shock inadequately dampening the springs.....springs hold the car up and shocks control the ride....its that simple

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Sulphur, La
      Posts
      613
      Agree with Rod. You do need to get the proper front springs first though. If you could add enough rebound you can control the cut springs but do it right and get springs and quality shocks.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,164
      Country Flag: United States
      It seems to me that you would be best served to buy a comprehensive kit that is designed to work as a system rather than buying parts piecemeal and hope they will work together. For example, shopping for control arms without a clear understanding of what you want them to accomplish and what related parts you expect them to work with is a waste of time and money. Something like the ridetech Tru-Turn system is designed to solve specific factory suspension geometry problems and is engineered to work as a complete system. I can assure you that it will cost less to buy a kit like a Tru Turn and you will have a better driving car when you're done VS buying a collection of mystery parts from a number of unrelated vendors and hoping the parts work then having to buy more parts when they don't.
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Support the RPM Act
      https://www.sema.org/rpm-faq.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2002
      Location
      Georgetown,TX
      Posts
      2,557
      FWIW, the below arms come from Ground Up, in a Hotchkis box.
      http://www.ss396.com/chevelle/UCA647...chevelle-parts

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,130
      Country Flag: United States
      Good street setup for the street on these abodies are #550 front springs,good shock ridetech,1/2 tall lower ball joint,can run with a stock lower,or the whole ridetech street grip kit.
      And yeah call mark!
      72 chevelle.




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