'64 Ford Fairlane Project

[Rebob]

All I can say my friend is you have some skills !!!! Very nice work, like metal porn.
Rick

[curleysracecars]

Thank you!

I have done a few more things...never seems to move along quick enough.

I had to do some thinking on making up the mount for the passenger side of the rack and pinion. The idea of the removable crossmember was to allow removal of the oil pan while the motor is sitting in the car (works great actually). Unfortunately that means the rack needs to be removable also. The driver side rack mount wasnt too difficult and utilizes two of the mounting bolts for the crossmember. For the passenger side, I ended up utilizing one of the "lightning holes" that I had lasered into the crossmember. I machined two small pucks with a .150" shoulder on them. Then drilled a thru hole in one of them and threaded the other one for a bolt. The one welded to the rack mount tube is threaded, the other one installs from the back side and acts like a thick locating washer. Both piece register in the 1" hole in the crossmember, and cannot move unless the bolt falls out. Only thing I need to change is the T-bolt clamp...I hate chinese junk.
Sometimes the laser isnt available for one simple part. I then draw things up in Solidworks, get a flat pattern and build it the old fashioned way. The driver side rack mount was done this way.



A quick mock up shows the tie rods and lower control arms pretty close to parallel. This along with the narrowed rack, and I hope bump steer only needs minimal adjustment. I really wanted to use a standard style TRE, but it seems going from a Pinto rack to a MII spindle isnt a common thing. I went ahead and ordered the studs to use heims and spacers to make it all work correctly. I will machine some parts to adapt the 1/2-20 thread on the tie rod to the heim joint size needed.



Today I laser cut some more small parts. Gussets for the shock mounts, control arm mounts, and also the gussets/shock mounts for the lower control arm. Here is a picture of one tacked together.



Someone had asked about increased travel in the suspension compared to a MII setup. I was hoping for 6" total, but I am not sure that is going to happen. Looking at available coilovers and measuring some things out, I will more than likely go with a Viking coilover that has a touch over 5" of travel. Still more than MII setup, but not the 6" I really wanted. I could go longer by making the upper mount stick up higher off the frame rail, but I am afraid of making it too long to where it has a large mechanical advantage over the frame rail and begins twisting the rail itself.

I hope to have the gussets installed and shocks mounted by the end of the weekend. At that point, I think I can officially call it a "roller". After that is figuring out the steering column and steering shaft down to the rack. More pictures to come.

[wfo guy]

Tell me about your laser, please.

[curleysracecars]

Amada Pulsar, 4000 watt machine. Its owned by a good friend of mine who allows me to use it. I do a lot of my product inventory on the laser and press brake. If anyone needs production runs done, feel free to email me.

[curleysracecars]

Was able to burn out some new upper shock mounts today. This mockup is with a 12" long coilover at ride height. Looks like it all turned out as planned, and I should have a little more than 5" of travel. I got a couple of the control arm mount gussets in place as well. Lots of welding to do once all of this stuff is finalized and in place.

[curleysracecars]

Think the front suspension is complete. Lots of welding to do still.

[wfo guy]

Are you planning on all your measurements being absolute accurate or am I missing the caster and camber adjusters?

[curleysracecars]

Are you planning on all your measurements being absolute accurate or am I missing the caster and camber adjusters?

Control arm mounts all allow for up to 1/2" of movement. Mount tabs are wider than the poly bushed ends, so shims will be used. I know some dont like poly, and I have thought of using torrington bearings in place of the shims to get rid of the "stick-tion" that people talk about with poly bushings.

[andrewb70]

If you alter the length of the control arm legs, won't that put the bushing in a bind?

Andrew

[curleysracecars]

If you alter the length of the control arm legs, won't that put the bushing in a bind?

Andrew

They need to be altered to the same length, otherwise yes, you are correct they would be in a bind as they are not spherical. Lowers will set track width, uppers will set camber, and the fore/aft movement taken up by shims wherever they are needed will control caster. Notice in the first pics of the stuff mocked up there are random 1/4" thick spacers in between the mounts and the poly bushing? That is to allow for adjustment.

[curleysracecars]

Not much to report, though the car is officially a roller. I need to machine some adapters to utilize heim joints on the end of the Pinto tie rods. I should get those done this week. I have a short list of small things to do before painting the car. I have been up in the air whether I should paint it or not but I think if I try to sell it, a painted car definitely will bring more money than something in primer and boxes of chrome trim and such. Wimbledon White it is. Going to try to paint the underside and engine bay the same color as well. Black in the wheel wells probably.

I did get a few small things done since my last post. Below is a picture of $160 worth of AN bolts and nuts for the front and rear suspension. Im a stickler when it comes to hardware and hate bolts with the wrong grip length. They are pricey, but in my opinion they are worth it.



This evening I also finished a little project with the steering column. I am running a ratcher shifter to the C4, so I was able to get rid of the column shift and all the uglyness that sticks out through the firewall. I machined bushings from Acetal to adapt the stock column down to 3/4" steering shaft. This allowed me to keep the column itself, as well as the turn signal cam assembly, etc. I shortened the overall column so that it stays inside the cabin. The only thing that will come through the firewall will be the 3/4" steering shaft itself and will immediately go into a U-joint to get down to the rack.
One thing I plan to finish this week is replacing the huge hole in the firewall for the column with new smooth sheet, and then poking the small hole through it for the shaft to come into the engine bay.

[curleysracecars]

This thing is officially for sale. My wife starts her new job out of state April 24th, and this will be sold before we leave. Should have it in primer in a week or so, then decide if I want to paint it, or let the next guy pick his own color.

I was able to finalize all the steering setup, and made stainless steel straps to hold the aluminum fuel cell in the stock location. Even hemmed the ends of the straps like the factory, and put the same bend profile on the one end that registers in the body.

[Cop Magnet]

Sweet project, and great craftsmanship!

[curleysracecars]

Thanks Cop. Much appreciated.

[curleysracecars]

Been trying to stay busy on this project as we only have about a month left before we will be moving. If someone has any interest in it, please let me know. I will make a good deal on it if it means I dont have to move it with me.

Seam sealed the interior last week. For anyone looking for the BEST seam sealer, there is a picture of it below. Made by PPG and is called Semkit. It is aircraft fuel tank sealant. 2 parts that mix together in the tube then is dispensed with a caulking gun (pneumatic gun usually). It works excellent, nothing will touch it (acetone, lacquer thinner, gas, diesel, MEK, nothing...) and will stay flexible forever. It bonds extremely well and can be used as an adhesive to some degree. I remove this stuff from military equipment that was in Vietnam, and it is still just as good as the day it was applied. It is expensive, but check ebay for good deals...outdated stuff works just fine for our needs.



I also was able to get the inner fender panels made up. I made the steel parts to graft into the stock sheetmetal, punched the obround holes in the factory locations, and even put the VIN number in the original OE locations. From there, I made aluminum panels that span from the upper pieces down to the frame rails. Definitely cleans stuff up nicely. I dont think I will paint them as of now...



I also added a gusset to the front of the front leaf spring mounts, tying the 2 individual brackets together as one. It looks more complete and helps to keep everything together.



Plans are to final prep the engine bay, underside, and front fender well areas, then prime and paint everything black. I think I have decided to go satin on the underside and any of the stock sheetmetal in the engine compartment, and then go gloss black on all of the custom fabricated pieces. Kind of give it a little contrast rather than just all being a blah satin black.

[curleysracecars]

I have been busy with the car, but havnt had much time for pictures or posting here. Here are a few shots. The idea was to get the underside painted, engine bay painted, and interior floors all painted. From there, I will remount everything, making the car a roller. At that point I can advertise it as a roller needing paint, wiring, plumbing, and some odds and ends.

I went ahead and had a torque converter built for it, figuring it would be dumb to put the engine and trans together and in the car just so the next guy could pull it all back apart. I am ordering rear axles for it as well. I had machined down some truck axles and changed the bolt pattern on them, but unfortunately they are not re-splinable (is that a word?).
I was able to get some billet pieces finalized as well. The front disc brake brackets as well as the alternator mount. This is a new 3G alternator and an old style water pump with the outlet on the passenger side. I couldnt find anyone who made a mount for this setup, so I made my own. There is a adjustable turnbuckle with heim joints that goes to the lower alternator hole, and the threaded hole in the bracket.
I also went ahead and made up some aluminum inner fender panels for the car. I dont blame on painting them as they are removable, and I figured it may be a spot for the next person to add a little of their own touch via paint color, anodize, polish, etc.

Im a little behind schedule but hoping it is listed for sale in the next week or so. Thanks for looking!

[curleysracecars]

Engine and transmission are installed.

[Motown 454]

There's plenty nice work there. Awesome job.

[curleysracecars]

Thanks Motown.

The car saw sunlight for the first time in about a year. It is officially a roller, and will be sold as it sits. I may loosely bolt some of the exterior trim and such on to make it more complete looking. Wish I could finish it, but I guess life changes means you have to roll with the punches. Here are some pictures of it outside.

[meatonastick]

I'm sorry to hear you have to sell it, I was really enjoying this build.