Ridetech Coilover preload???

[Mike H]

What's the average amount of preload you put into the front coilovers? The rears have just enough to keep the spring seated and sit a little high, which I expected, missing a lot of weight. The fronts are fairly tight and the front still needs to come up at least 1.75" to 2.0". That's with no bumpers. My LCAs are modified to work with coilovers and I'm trying to decide if the mounts are 1" too low.



Coming from motorcycle road racing excessive preload makes for handling issues, but I don't have a point of reference for cars. ridetech says 1.5" of preload is acceptable. But how do you even tighten them that far? I'm probably at 1" and it's really tough to turn the adjuster. And the opposite direction, what is not enough preload?

[Z06vet]

I can only give you input on 1st gen F body, as I have done several with ridetech shocks. On every one, the adjuster was either all the way up, or very close to it. ridetech says this is normal, and the spring is designed no to coil bind. I'm running their shock on a DSE subframe, and I chose to run a spring spacer rather than go to a heavier spring. Scott

[andrewb70]

Regardless of the make of coilovers the amount of preload that is required is however much puts the shock at the proper installed length with the suspension at ride height and fully loaded. If you find that the amount of preload is such that there is potential for coil bind, then you need a stiffer spring.

Andrew

[Mike H]

It's a 70 Chevelle with an LS1, the front springs are 600lbs. Sounds like I just need to adjust them for more preload. It made me nervous when the rest required no preload and the front sat on the bumpstops when first putting the cars weight on them. Thanks for the replies.

[Z06vet]

I felt the same the first time. I ran QA1s on one car, and you couldnt do that with those. When I spoke to ridetech, they told me many of their shop cars are adjusted all the way up, and that their spring is designed not to coil bind with the adjuster all the way up. My car had good balance with the 600lb springs, thats why I didnt want to go to a heavier spring. I used a spring spacer they sent me, and I now have the ride height I want with a few threads left to spare.

[WallaceMFG]

I can second the recommendation from ridetech not to worry about the preload. My 69 Chevelle was too low after tightening 1.5" from zero preload and I was worried about going more. They told me not to worry about it because the Hyperco springs were very hard to get into coil bind.

As for tightening the spring my shocks came with a spanner wrench specifically for the ridetech shocks. Just take the weight off the shock and it should turn without too much difficulty. Some dry graphite lube will help as well.

[Mike H]

I started running the adjusters up yesterday. The ride height is getting close to to where it needs to be with the adjusting collar near halfway up the threaded part of the shock body. Another half inch or so should bring it to right where I want it. That'll still leave a lot of room for adjustment either way. I just panicked a little when I first put the car's weight on them and they were so different then the adjustment for the rear. I should have it close to being dialed in this afternoon. Thanks again for the help.

[TheJDMan]

Sounds like you have the front under control. You mentioned the rear setting a little high, you can back the rear shocks off which will leave the springs slack when extented but you can take up the slack with these take up springs from Speedway Motors.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-2...ing,24622.html

[Mike H]

I was wondering how that was handled, I'll keep those in mind. The rear adjusters are backed way off now. The spring is fairly sloppy in there when the car is picked up. I need to get all the parts back on the car to get a good picture of where the rear is going to sit before I actually set the ride height. Right now there is no glass, rear mounted battery, or interior in the car. So I expected it to sit a little high. That was part of the panic inducing moment I had when the front went right to the stops. I've got it close now, I'm sure I'll need to dial a little more in when the car is complete. I've still got almost half the threads on the Coilover left to get more than enough height. Now that I know how high they need to be adjusted.

[andrewb70]

Mike,

The rear question is what is the installed current length of the shock and how does that compare to the desired installed shock length.

Andrew

[dhutton]

In my experience running a lot of preload on rough pavement (potholes etc) gives a lousy ride. The shock extends abruptly when the stored energy in the spring is released. I'd rather run a higher spring rate than a lot of preload. But that is just my amateur opinion based on my limited experience.

And Andrew has a great point. The shock should be roughly centered in its travel at ride height. Otherwise you are bouncing off the bump stop.

Don

[Mike H]

Preload maybe the wrong term. I'm not talking about the shock topped out and the coil pushing against the stop. Common condition you can find on a motorcycle when trying to set sag with too light a spring for the rider's weight. Once the rider steps off the bike it's fully topped out on suspension travel. This makes for a harsh ride and nasty handling. The spring pushes through the rebound dampening way to fast. From everyone I've talked to it has to have some, I use the word preload, in the spring so it doesn't push all the way through the travel as the spring takes the weight of the car.

After taking to Ron and explaining the situation to him, we're confident they're where they should be. The fronts are about mid way in their travel and about mid way on the adjuster. Again, once the rest of the car is together I'm sure it'll need some tweaking. Sounds like we're all in agreement.

I posted because I was worried I made the lower mounts wrong, it was entirely possible I left out a detail that could have changed that location. I have zero experience setting up a car on coilovers. But I'm not totally in the dark on springs and valving.

I doubt the rears will need any helper springs, but it's good to know they exist. The rear is a known quantity, it's a standard kit with Ron's valving.