Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 8 of 8
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Boise ID
      Posts
      97
      Country Flag: United States

      Second Gen Quadralink Modification

      Need some advice, thanks in advance!

      FIRST.....I'm ABSOULUTELY not complaining about anything DSE has done here, everything including their tech support is first class.

      I've installed all four mounts for the upper and lower links. While test fitting the stock spring pocket mounts (see first pic), I looked to clean it up as well as allow me to overcome some of the factory frame inaccuracies and insure the links were exactly centered and square to the rear end. I spoke to DSE about the 1/4" out of square the links would be using the stock spring pockets and they thought this was at the upper limit but acceptable. Frankly, just flexing the rubber bushings would fix that amount.

      Truth be told, I don't know why the spring pockets bug me, they just do.

      The attached pics are my solution. I've only tacked them in place so far as I was looking for you guys to shoot holes in my design. Please....I'm looking for reasons NOT to do this so please swing away! Ha!

      For sure weld strength is crucial, but beyond that it looks to me this should be at least as strong as the spring pockets.



      The location of the bolt for the link is exactly in the same place as it would be with the pocket.

      Thanks
      John
      Attached Images Attached Images        
      Have a great day!!
      John

      My build thread:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/members/36672-Goosesdad


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Lawrenceburg, TN
      Posts
      4,098
      Country Flag: United States
      how do you service the bolt? is there an access hole on the other side?....I do like it...I hate spacers and the leaf pockets, but thats what makes the hardware serviceable

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Boise ID
      Posts
      97
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes, there is a hole through to the other side of the frame. If you look at my build thread, you can see how I did that. Glad somebody else doesn't like the pockets!! Thanks!
      Have a great day!!
      John

      My build thread:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/members/36672-Goosesdad

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Lawrenceburg, TN
      Posts
      4,098
      Country Flag: United States

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Colton Ca.
      Posts
      623
      Country Flag: United States
      It looks like you dropped the arm down about 1/2"or so, is that going to cause interference in the arms travel once the suspension is compressed or the cars lowered? I like it tho.
      Ahmad B.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Boise ID
      Posts
      97
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey guys, sorry for the delay in getting back. Appreciate the advice. Yes, I had already created the access hole, actually DSE did this by using an existing hole in the frame. That access hole is oblong and not exactly in the ideal location for access to the nut (the DSE setup had the bolt coming in from the opposite site as my mod's). Agreed, there shouldn't really be a huge need to have access here except for "bolt check" purposes. I added the access hole and 2" round sleeve....I guess just because I could!

      I did take Rod's advice and added that brace but did it using a piece of angle, I also added another brace on the interior side (under the link).

      Ahmad, you are correct, it does look like I lowered the bar a lot and I agree that would cause interference with the chassis, however, that pic is a little deceiving. Actually I did inadvertently lower it about 3/16" because I used a set of spring pockets I purchased from Classic Industries to locate the center hole in my assembly but when I checked them against a set of stock ones, their hole was about 3/16" lower than the stock ones. I made a mock up the rear end with the shock fully compressed and checked that it didn't hit the frame...it didn't. Pic's attached.

      Still need to do some clean up of the welds and I know some of them look bulky but In some cases I was overlapping my pieces with the existing DSE parts and wanted to insure connection the chassis.

      I did cover the frame mount with some sheet metal, just to increase the cleanliness of the look. Yes, I probably didn't do a good job here in keeping the overall build on a strict diet but at least the weight is low. Once I started down this path....I couldn't stop myself. I'm sure you can relate!!

      On that note, I wasn't really sure how much additional bracing came from the angle bracket that was provided to be installed between the upper link assembly and the frame (pic with my finger), it only had three plug welds and one was essentially on a piece of sheet metal. I fabbed up a bit of a stouter bracket, again...I know I added some weight but it seemed to me that if a brace was necessary in this location...it should be as strong as possible.

      Appreciate any further input.

      Cheers!
      Attached Images Attached Images                
      Have a great day!!
      John

      My build thread:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/members/36672-Goosesdad

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,560
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice work!
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Posts
      95
      Agreed. I love this build!!!




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com