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    Thread: New panels

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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm using different guide coat labels. I am blocking the deck lid at the moment. I'm also using Evercoat blending putty to fill the low spots. These "low" spots are not very deep at all, I just think if I'm going to paint this car black anything will show up. Using the guide coat to find high and low spots when blocking. I also filled the seams around the rear tail light panel and the rear panel below the back window. When I get to where I think it's smooth, I will block sand back down to almost nothing (short of the low spots) and then prime with Metal Lok. It is a two part epoxy primer that can go over bare metal. I've never heard of slicksand, I'll have to look it up. I also used a zinc chromate self etching primer on the low spots I filled. Funny, I used to paint quite a bit about 30+ years ago, a lot has changed in the way of materials...


      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,878
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by minendrews68 View Post
      I'm using different guide coat labels. I am blocking the deck lid at the moment. I'm also using Evercoat blending putty to fill the low spots. These "low" spots are not very deep at all, I just think if I'm going to paint this car black anything will show up. Using the guide coat to find high and low spots when blocking. I also filled the seams around the rear tail light panel and the rear panel below the back window. When I get to where I think it's smooth, I will block sand back down to almost nothing (short of the low spots) and then prime with Metal Lok. It is a two part epoxy primer that can go over bare metal. I've never heard of slicksand, I'll have to look it up. I also used a zinc chromate self etching primer on the low spots I filled. Funny, I used to paint quite a bit about 30+ years ago, a lot has changed in the way of materials...
      Spray the whole car with a coat of slicksand or rust defender. They are high build polyester primers. Rust Defender can be applied to bare metal. Then block it all at once with the longest block you can. Doing it piecemeal like that will not get it straight in my experience. Not sure what blending putty is but if it is a 1K (no hardener) product I would not be using it....

      Etch primer has been largely replaced by epoxy primers. Check out southernpolyurethanes.com

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside




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