'69 Firebird update

[JLM]

Been getting a little bit more done to the Firebird. The rear-end filler work has been built up. I'm no working on the glaze coat to get it as smooth as possible befor prime and paint. The American Grafitti AC delete box is also ready to be mounted to the firewall. I've just got to clean and paint the old blower motor prior to installation. I'll also have to relocate the Mallory coil as it's current resting place is in the way of the box.


here's a good shot of the sanding I got done this evening.


passenger side




this shot gives a good representation of the lines I'm getting out of the work. It's starting to smooth out nicely.


AC delete box ready to go.

[F70t/a]

Looks really good. The lines on a 69 are very sharp when you work on them!! :icon996:

[68protouring454]

but what are you sanding filler with??
looks too fine
i would stay with regular filler till last coat, all those spots above wheel well where theres filler then black, then filler, i would skim coat, in fact if that amount of body work i would skim the entire 1/4 then block with 80 grit on a 11 inch board then a flexible block near wheel well
get it perfect, then scuff by hand with 180 to knock some coarsness off the 80 grit and prime, and or one perfect apply the lightest coat of glaze and block with 180, it looks like your polishing the filler in the pics
goodwork, just watch what your doing.
oh ya thorw the da back in tool boxy, only strip paint with it, no way will you ever get it straight using one.
jake

[71FirebirdLS1]

smear it on, sand it off... smear it on, sand it off... smear it on, sand it off... smear it on, sand it off... ever feel like you don't get anything done while doing body work?? It's looking better though! this stage is usually where most people give up.

[MrQuick]

Looks good bra, true long board all the way with that body. Its gonna look sharp, doin it! Poncho motor, sweet

[JLM]

but what are you sanding filler with??
looks too fine
i would stay with regular filler till last coat, all those spots above wheel well where theres filler then black, then filler, i would skim coat, in fact if that amount of body work i would skim the entire 1/4 then block with 80 grit on a 11 inch board then a flexible block near wheel well
get it perfect, then scuff by hand with 180 to knock some coarsness off the 80 grit and prime, and or one perfect apply the lightest coat of glaze and block with 180, it looks like your polishing the filler in the pics
goodwork, just watch what your doing.
oh ya thorw the da back in tool boxy, only strip paint with it, no way will you ever get it straight using one.
jake

Thanks for the tips. I've never done any type of body work so it's definitely a learning experiance.

I do have a block sander for use with the glaze coat that I will be applying over the entire 1/4's.

I'm only getting about an hour and a half worth of work before the sun goes down durng the week though, so it's slow going. I hope to have the final glaze coat on teh car and sanded properly by the end of the upcoming weekend. Then I've got the install the AC delete box so I can mount doors and fenders to check for fitment.

Little by little it's getting closer to primer...and more sanding

[68protouring454]

yeah you want around a 11 inch block or so to do 90% of 1/4 then a small flexible block to do rest.
but use 80 grit until glaze coat, i would coat panel with reg filler block, then use glaze only to fill 80 grit scratches
what i do it get it perfect then spread glaze, and use spreader to take it all back off again, and all thats left it what is filling the 80 grit scratches as thats all i want the glaze to do, as the filler did exactely what it is named for.
then sand glaze with 180 by block to, just to feather it out, then 2-3 coats urethane primer, guide coat it (a flat black paint works, sprayed all over light colored primer) so you can block sand again with 320 and see any areas hand missed.
once blocked it can be either primed one coat and sanded with 600 wet then right on to base or you can seal it and go wet on wet into base, i would go with the re prime route and wet sand 600, much cleaner
jake