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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Mountain View, CA
      Posts
      9,583
      Country Flag: United States

      Garage floor coating

      So Ive been trying to explain garage floor coating to my fiance (re, the home renovation thing) and showed her an ad for Ucoat it from a magazine. Her question was this?

      Are those coatings semi-permeable? If not, what happens to water beneath the concrete slab? She is a commerical construction project manager and has had problems with water & sealed concrete in the past in commercial applications.

      An issue at all?

      True T.

      Whats new with Project 1/2-Trak?


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    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Winter Park, FL
      Posts
      143
      I haven't heard of any issues and I've spoken to a few companies that do pro installations. You might want to talk to someone in your area that does pro installation for advice, or just to see what they say about it. I've seen the commercial epoxy coatings on many showroom floors, so I would have to think that it isn't a problem. One of the worst things with unsealed concrete floors is that moisture can seep up through the floor and can rust the bottom side of your car.

      My car was stored in my fathers shop in Indiana for a few months before I was able to ship it to Florida. Once I got it here I noticed a lot of surface rust on many new parts that I thought were painted well enough.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      New Washington, IN
      Posts
      1,509
      I just sealed mine yeaterday with Valspar's coating. Love the look of it. Have not heard of any problems either. But is sure beats a stained up nasty floor.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      New Jersey
      Posts
      1,315
      I've done some research on this as well. Two things to keep in mind.

      1) test your floor for moisture by placing a piece of aluminum foil over it and securely taping it down. In a day or two pull it up and check to see if ant condensation or water is on the foil.
      If no moisture then no worries

      2) It is highly advised not to coat a newly poured floor. Depending on your local climate with many variable, humidity, temp, etc. it can take anywhere from a few months to a couple years for the concrete to fully cure. Ask a local mason or GC to get his opinion of the time frame.

      Other then that this is all I can contribute.

      Good Luck
      Camaro Convertible Build Pics - http://s447.photobucket.com/albums/qq198/rob07002/

      www.musclerides.com

      Rob Stevens

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,097
      Quote Originally Posted by rob07002
      it can take anywhere from a few months to a couple years for the concrete to fully cure.
      That's not entirely accurate. There are many of variables that contribute to the cure time for a concrete pour. Environmental conditions is a big thing, but thickness of the slab is going to play an even bigger role in the cure time of a slab.
      The average slab poured for a house is about 4"- 6" thick, and even if it is kept damp to slow the curing process (usually when it is hot, or to increase the strength of the concrete) it can usually support weight (a car) after 30 days. Since it's usually longer than that from the time a slab is poured on a new house, and it is occupied, it is not an issue. In commercial construction with mega pours (12" + in thickness, 250+ cu.yds.) they give 30 days before they are allowed to put weight (4,000 + lbs.) on it and consider it "cured".
      Once you get into bridge construction, (ie, The Golden Gate, Brooklyn, George Washington bridges) the tower footings is where you see the year + cure times.
      The average time that I've seen new concrete get coated at work is 2-6 months, depending on the project and the flooring surface, and that's only because they don't want the flooring surface damaged. It has nothing to do with cure times.
      The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Posts
      381
      Country Flag: United States
      A pic of a buddy's garage with UCoatIt:

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      New Jersey
      Posts
      1,315
      Quote Originally Posted by toxicz28
      That's not entirely accurate. There are many of variables that contribute to the cure time for a concrete pour. Environmental conditions is a big thing, but thickness of the slab is going to play an even bigger role in the cure time of a slab.
      The average slab poured for a house is about 4"- 6" thick, and even if it is kept damp to slow the curing process (usually when it is hot, or to increase the strength of the concrete) it can usually support weight (a car) after 30 days. Since it's usually longer than that from the time a slab is poured on a new house, and it is occupied, it is not an issue. In commercial construction with mega pours (12" + in thickness, 250+ cu.yds.) they give 30 days before they are allowed to put weight (4,000 + lbs.) on it and consider it "cured".
      Once you get into bridge construction, (ie, The Golden Gate, Brooklyn, George Washington bridges) the tower footings is where you see the year + cure times.
      The average time that I've seen new concrete get coated at work is 2-6 months, depending on the project and the flooring surface, and that's only because they don't want the flooring surface damaged. It has nothing to do with cure times.
      I'm not claiming to be a concrete expert, just what I read on the subject. When I said it could take a couple years, that is obviously on the extreme side, with thickness playing a major factor. Damn True wasn't clear if his floor was newly poured so I thought he should be aware that their could be issues if thats the case.....
      Camaro Convertible Build Pics - http://s447.photobucket.com/albums/qq198/rob07002/

      www.musclerides.com

      Rob Stevens

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,097
      Quote Originally Posted by rob07002
      I'm not claiming to be a concrete expert, just what I read on the subject. When I said it could take a couple years, that is obviously on the extreme side, with thickness playing a major factor. Damn True wasn't clear if his floor was newly poured so I thought he should be aware that their could be issues if thats the case.....
      Don't take it as a personal attack, it wasn't. I read it as that was what was told to you by a contractor during your research.
      The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Snohomish, WA
      Posts
      19
      Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Blaze
      I just sealed mine yeaterday with Valspar's coating. Love the look of it. Have not heard of any problems either. But is sure beats a stained up nasty floor.
      Can you give us a general idea of how much it cost you and product infromation? If ya don't mind?
      -John
      1967 Nova 2dr HT
      1967 Nova 4dr C-Dan

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      New Jersey
      Posts
      1,315
      Quote Originally Posted by toxicz28
      Don't take it as a personal attack, it wasn't. I read it as that was what was told to you by a contractor during your research.

      No worries.....
      Camaro Convertible Build Pics - http://s447.photobucket.com/albums/qq198/rob07002/

      www.musclerides.com

      Rob Stevens

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      not sure where you are

      but here in maine i layed 2 courses of block on my slab for my shop the next day after pouring, and had shop framed and roofed within 3 weeks, all the while driving in it on it etc, this was not a polar mix either.
      you can almost visually tell when the concrete is done curing as it will go from greenish grey to grey
      jake

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Mountain View, CA
      Posts
      9,583
      Country Flag: United States
      Well the slab is over 40 years old so I'm guessing it's pretty much cured by now.
      True T.

      Whats new with Project 1/2-Trak?


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      When they kick out your front door, How you gonna come?
      With your hands on your head, Or on the trigger of your gun?

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Location
      San Jose, Ca.
      Posts
      46
      I have a newly (4 weeks) poured slab, 1200 sq. ft. x 5" thick slab in my shop. Decided to go with Race Deck instead of a coating. You might want to consider that as an alternative.
      Drowning in projects!

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Mountain View, CA
      Posts
      9,583
      Country Flag: United States
      That is nice looking stuff.
      Is race deck an interlocking tile, or a solid sheet?

      My concern about the tiles is that if I spill something, or water gets on the floor it would just seep down between the tiles and into the concrete.
      True T.

      Whats new with Project 1/2-Trak?


      Follow my wisecracks on Sports, Food, Politics and other BS on Twitter.

      My blog

      When they kick out your front door, How you gonna come?
      With your hands on your head, Or on the trigger of your gun?

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Location
      San Jose, Ca.
      Posts
      46
      Quote Originally Posted by Damn True
      That is nice looking stuff.
      Is race deck an interlocking tile, or a solid sheet?

      My concern about the tiles is that if I spill something, or water gets on the floor it would just seep down between the tiles and into the concrete.
      It's interlocking tiles 12" or 18" square. The rep told me that if water gets under there it will just evaporate. Something about because of the material used in the tiles they wont mold or mildew.
      Drowning in projects!




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