Traction Bars, or Lack there of

[Johnny Blaze]

It seems a lot of PT's running mini tubs and leafs are not running traction bars. Why is this? Do the aftermarket leafs actually control wheel hop that well, or are these cars just posers? I have seen a lot of 1st gens in the mags with big high power cars, 335 tires and no traction control devices.


Seems like a recipe for wheel hop.

[protour_chevelle]

Traction bars are not ideal for cornering. Thats why you won't see them on our cars for the most part. Dennis or the like could go into why they are not ideal for cornering.

-Matt

[Johnny Blaze]

Are there designs that do not effect handling?

[chicane67]

Sure, have the correct spring built..... and there is not reason for traction bars what-so-ever.

[SatisTraction]

JB.

are you on 3ww.com?

[dhardison]

I tried using my good-ole slapper bars after installing my Hotchkis drop leafs, but it was a no-go. The Hotchklis leafs were so flat in comparison to my factory multi-leafs that the slapper bars were ALWAYS under preload (http://www.danhardison.com/discs/DSC00769.JPG).

I tried trimming the snubber all the way down but they still were under pressure and this made the rear-end very bouncy. I ended up having to remove them. Wheel hop isn't as bad as with the factory leafs, but there is definitely hop there. I plan on installing Slide-a-links or Cal-tracs before long to eliminate that problem.

Dan

[cad]

Traction bars are not the only device to eliminate wheel hop, but for straight line traction, with a leaf spring car, they cannot be beat when set up correctly with J-bolts and the snubber set up under the front eye of the leaf with the correct gaps on each side.
J-bolt traction bars are designed to lift the body and drive the tires into the ground for traction.
Avoid the bars that just bolt to the spring perch. Those are pretty much just for looks.
They certainly are not great looking, but they serve a purpose going straight.

[chicane67]

Traction bars are not the only device to eliminate wheel hop, but for straight line traction, with a leaf spring car, they cannot be beat when set up correctly with J-bolts and the snubber set up under the front eye of the leaf with the correct gaps on each side.

Traction bar is a traction bar. A correctly designed pair of leafs will do more, drag and/or road racing, than anything you an bolt to a leaf and the housing. They can be tuned to help with wheel hop under acceleration and axle tramp on deceleration..... and control the instant center better without putting any undue strain on the forward eye...... which is where you will have problems with spring breakage and eyelet fatigue which may cause the bushing to move around.

But if I had to run bars (on the majority of available leafs) I would do Cal Trac's...... with the 'J bolt' bars in second.

[mrupp]

I've been fighting wheel hop on my big block 67 camaro for 20 years. I've used slapper bars with and without j-bolts, on both multi and mono leaf springs. Currently have Landrum's drag mono-leafs with Slide-a-link bars. No hop on the street, either launching from a dead stop or lighting 'em up at a 30 mph roll, but launching at the strip is dreadfull. With J-bolt bars and multi or mono leafs, it would hop from a stop or a roll, didn't matter. I have tuned the J-bolt bars from 3/4" gap down to ~1/4" preload, better with preload but you can guess how that rides. Still hopped too. I've adjusted pinion angle from 2 deg down to 9 deg down with no effect in hop, just driveshaft vibration at the two extremes of the range. One thing that did help is making sure not to overtighten the spring eye bolts or the shackle bolts. These pivots must be free.

[Travis B]

I've been fighting wheel hop on my big block 67 camaro for 20 years. I've used slapper bars with and without j-bolts, on both multi and mono leaf springs. Currently have Landrum's drag mono-leafs with Slide-a-link bars. No hop on the street, either launching from a dead stop or lighting 'em up at a 30 mph roll, but launching at the strip is dreadfull. With J-bolt bars and multi or mono leafs, it would hop from a stop or a roll, didn't matter. I have tuned the J-bolt bars from 3/4" gap down to ~1/4" preload, better with preload but you can guess how that rides. Still hopped too. I've adjusted pinion angle from 2 deg down to 9 deg down with no effect in hop, just driveshaft vibration at the two extremes of the range. One thing that did help is making sure not to overtighten the spring eye bolts or the shackle bolts. These pivots must be free.

how about a four link??????????????/

[chicane67]

how about a four link??????????????/

How about a correctly built set of springs before the major surgery ??

[Travis B]

How about a correctly built set of springs before the major surgery ??

THat could work too.......just throwing that out there since it sounds like he has tried several combos!!!!!!!!

[chicane67]

A four link..... or more likely a Lateral Dynamics 3 link would be a darn good choice.

But if you didnt want to cut up the chassis, a correctly built set of leafs will do wonders for everything encompassed. Better IC control, better squat control, progressive rate increase, built in traction bar without bolting anything else to it, no wheel hop what-so-ever and maintain a good ride quality.

Mind you that it would run you about $800 to pull this off......... everything would remain intact in the long run.

But a 3 linky..... ahhhhh, the ability to adjust any single controlling aspect when you want to......

[Mean 69]

I'd really have to recommend the three link too....

M

[Travis B]

I'd really have to recommend the three link too....

M

sounded like he was in too drag racing 4 link was my first thought? : :icon_razz

[CAMAROBOY69]

I will throw a confusing rock into the water. When I had the traction bars or slappers (whatever they are called) I had wheel hop. I took them off when I lowered the car and I have never experienced wheel hop even once with them off. I still have the same leafs, they are just de-arched.
If anyone wants the old traction bars you can have them. Just pay the shipping. I personally plan on cutting them up for scrap metal.
They were cheap ones that came with the car so thats probably part of it. I only had wheel hop at the track with them coming out of the burnout box.

[cad]

Wheel hop is caused by a combination of things (weak springs, bad shocks--front or rear, no weight transfer, too much weight transfer, etc) but I agree that you should start with your springs. Then, if torque warrants, add a traction device. I have never experienced wheel hopped with my setup. I would personally try the cal-trac bars in the future.
I am getting a little traction last Sunday...if you compare this photo to my car standing still, you'll see what the Jbolt Bars do.
1.75 60ft

[mrupp]

A trailing link type suspension with coilovers was the way I was leaning, but lots of money and time than I'd like to swallow (do my own work, have 3 kids and a working wife - not much time). I'd be interested in more info on the springs you're talking about, and how they're different/better. I'll try the website, but if you can reply to this, I'm and ME so please don't spare the details. And thanks to everyone for their responses.

A four link..... or more likely a Lateral Dynamics 3 link would be a darn good choice.

But if you didnt want to cut up the chassis, a correctly built set of leafs will do wonders for everything encompassed. Better IC control, better squat control, progressive rate increase, built in traction bar without bolting anything else to it, no wheel hop what-so-ever and maintain a good ride quality.

Mind you that it would run you about $800 to pull this off......... everything would remain intact in the long run.

But a 3 linky..... ahhhhh, the ability to adjust any single controlling aspect when you want to......