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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Posts
      77

      HARD LINE OR BRAIDED lines?

      Does it make a difference?

      i have braided line in (currently out;-) ) my car now and re-doing my brake system.
      To me, the braided ones are easier to mount and install.

      I hate doing the hard line routing and making the ends (flares)

      BUT, am I losing pressure this way?

      Who knows, or has the experience with it?



      thanks!


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States

      HARD LINE OR BRAIDED lines?

      Are you talking about from the master cylinder? No problem if so. The braided ones do not cause the system to lose pressure.

      -Dale
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Sacramento, CA
      Posts
      1,918
      Country Flag: United States
      If you plumb an entire car with braided line, you will experience a more spongy pedal. The teflon hose inside the braided line is plenty safe to run for the whole car, but does expand slightly. With 4 sections around 18" or so (6') ... that expansion is manageable, even necessary. When you add another 20'+ ... it becomes more noticeable.

      if you're just cruising the car, it may not be an issue for you. If you plan to track the car or compete in autocross, my suggestion would be do the right thing & hard plumb everything you can, except the flex hose at the calipers.


    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Hard lines are preferable, but like Ron pointed out, it's really just a matter of how much bounce you'll have in the pedal. Though braided stainless hoses are much less compliant than rubber hoses, they're still more compliant than a 3/16" or 1/4" hard line. The more compliance, the more bounce in the pedal under load, although there's really no impact on pressure since that's a function of the pedal ratio, booster and MC bore size. The higher the operating pressures of the given system, the more significant the difference in compliance will be between hard lines and brake hoses.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      Consider the cunifer (copper-nickel) hardline material. From what I've been reading it is much easier to work with then steel hardline material. It bends easier, flares easier, and is just easier all around to work with. This Winter I'm going to install all new lines on a car and that is what I'm going to use.

      Couple years ago I replaced some lines on this car with the polymer coated steel line material. Never using that again. The polymer is too slippery which makes it difficult to flare (can't clamp it). And it slips in the bending tool.

      Bob.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Posts
      77

      HARD LINE OR BRAIDED lines?

      Oké thanks guys

      I Will use the hard (copper style) lines.

      Only braided from my MC to distr block and front and back on the calipers.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2013
      Posts
      127
      Country Flag: United States
      how do you feel about the Copper-Nickel alloy Ron? I have it on one of my vehicles and it says its dot approved, but is it track tested?
      67 Camaro CAM/C-prepared autocross Project
      72 Nova Street/Drag Car Project

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Pittsburgh, PA
      Posts
      717
      Quote Originally Posted by a67 View Post
      Consider the cunifer (copper-nickel) hardline material. From what I've been reading it is much easier to work with then steel hardline material. It bends easier, flares easier, and is just easier all around to work with. This Winter I'm going to install all new lines on a car and that is what I'm going to use.

      Couple years ago I replaced some lines on this car with the polymer coated steel line material. Never using that again. The polymer is too slippery which makes it difficult to flare (can't clamp it). And it slips in the bending tool.

      Bob.
      Also called nicopp
      It also has better work fatigue vs steel or SS
      72 buick skylark
      twin-turbo fuel injected buick 350..perhaps stroked to 370 in the works!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St Louis
      Posts
      213
      Country Flag: United States

      HARD LINE OR BRAIDED lines?

      You can go the extra step and protect it with SS gravel guard, or the spring looking wrap.

      Pontiac Powered 72 GTO

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Sacramento, CA
      Posts
      1,918
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bergers59 View Post
      how do you feel about the Copper-Nickel alloy Ron? I have it on one of my vehicles and it says its dot approved, but is it track tested?

      I don't have any experience with it, but it sounds like the cat's meow. We always ran stainless steel lines, which are a pain to double flare. I looked at the metallurgy of the NiCop & like it, so the next car we build will feature NiCop.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Out of the Burbs of Detroit to SoCal, then onto my ancestral homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,753
      Country Flag: United States
      Stuff is known as Cunifer in my other automotive hobby (MG's) Cu=chemical symbol for copper, Ni=nickle, Fe=ferrous. Stuff is in production use on a couple of European cars.

      http://www.cunifer.com/
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Some stock Volvos had it under hood. If you see it in jy its turns green. That's the copper. I know of several guys who scuff with scotchbrite and clear it after bending.
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"




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