Prepping 66 Chevelle frame for a roll cage?

[switchblade327]

I am going to be pulling the body off the frame of my '66 Chevelle soon and am also planning on having a cage put in, at that time or later. What I'm wondering, is if there is anything I should do to the frame while it's separated to make the installation of a cage easier in the future (like welding in mounting plates at the contact points)? Is having the body off the frame the best time to do the cage completely?



Also, I know a custom-bent cage is ideal but is there a premade cage kit that's a good, tight fit for my Chevelle? I've read that both the AME and Chassisworks kits are good.

[andrewb70]

I am going to be pulling the body off the frame of my '66 Chevelle soon and am also planning on having a cage put in, at that time or later. What I'm wondering, is if there is anything I should do to the frame while it's separated to make the installation of a cage easier in the future (like welding in mounting plates at the contact points)? Is having the body off the frame the best time to do the cage completely?

Also, I know a custom-bent cage is ideal but is there a premade cage kit that's a good, tight fit for my Chevelle? I've read that both the AME and Chassisworks kits are good.

Ryan,

Will the cage be welded to the frame or to the body?

Andrew

[switchblade327]

Ryan,

Will the cage be welded to the frame or to the body?

Andrew

My homework has all been pointing to frame as the safest option, at least for the main hoop.

[andrewb70]

My homework has all been pointing to frame as the safest option, at least for the main hoop.

I agree. Welding the cage directly to the frame is the way to go. But I am sure you discovered the challenges of doing that. I think the way it is done is that big holes are cut into the floor where the cage passes through. Then the body is set above the frame with enough room that the welding of the cage can be done. That also gives you room to paint the top of the cage. Then the body is bolted down and the holes covered up.

Andrew

[switchblade327]

Another important detail I should've mentioned is that I may powdercoat the chassis while it's out. So I was trying to figure out if there's a good way to place the mounting plates on the frame first then powdercoat everything but those, so I don't have to worry about trying to weld onto a powdercoated frame..

[Bonehead]

The a-bodys are easy to weld up a frame mounted chassis. No prep needs to be done. Just a good cleaning. Powder coating will be an issue. It will have to be ground off to get to bare metal.

Two key things you'll have to consider. Leave the kicker panels in up front. Or you'll get a cage too close to the side and wont be able to fit them in. Unless of course you don't care about eliminating them. The second thing is the head liner. If you leave it out, its going to be a rather difficult to get back in. Or you don't have one at all, which is ok during those nice easy summer months, but during rain? Wholly cow.... One last little tip. Avoid those cheap, barn door type side bar swing out kits. Spend the money and get the good clevis type. You'll thank yourself for this later on. Plus the clevis type are NHRA legal if you plan on any 1/4 mile stuff.

Make sure you communicate everything with your chassis builder BEFORE he/she starts bending up steel. They'll let you know whats going to fly.

[switchblade327]

The a-bodys are easy to weld up a frame mounted chassis. No prep needs to be done. Just a good cleaning. Powder coating will be an issue. It will have to be ground off to get to bare metal.

Two key things you'll have to consider. Leave the kicker panels in up front. Or you'll get a cage too close to the side and wont be able to fit them in. Unless of course you don't care about eliminating them. The second thing is the head liner. If you leave it out, its going to be a rather difficult to get back in. Or you don't have one at all, which is ok during those nice easy summer months, but during rain? Wholly cow.... One last little tip. Avoid those cheap, barn door type side bar swing out kits. Spend the money and get the good clevis type. You'll thank yourself for this later on. Plus the clevis type are NHRA legal if you plan on any 1/4 mile stuff.

Make sure you communicate everything with your chassis builder BEFORE he/she starts bending up steel. They'll let you know whats going to fly.

Thanks for the advice! I like to keep the interior quiet so I'm definitely keeping the headliner in mind. I have on installed already, thankfully. I'm from the Northwest so I'm familiar with how it can sound in the rain I have kick panels in but they need to be painted so I'll do that first.

I made a different post here: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-vs-swing-outs
about door bars since I have some questions not specific to the car. I'm hoping there is a way to get away with triangulated bars that aren't such a pain to get past.

[chevelletiger]

Have your rear panels and the back seat in while there mocking up the main hoop.headliner and qrtr windows,make sure you can take them in and out with where the hoop is places.i did mine with the body onas andrew said to do,cut a hole in the floor,trunk for rear struts.and notch the package tray...and have fun son!

[Sean Cooke]

Is there any reason in particular why you are adding the roll cage?

[cactuss4]

Is there any reason in particular why you are adding the roll cage?

Probably so his friends can't mooch a ride anymore. "Sorry guys, can only fit 2 poeple now"..

[switchblade327]

Is there any reason in particular why you are adding the roll cage?

After a lot of research and back and forth, I'll be going with a 6 point roll bar low, door bars. Pretty much a Tiger Cage layout/roll bar.

The reason is primarily safety (I'm aware that the main hoop needs to be WELL away from anyone's melon.) There's no definitive answer and it's been argued to dead here and elsewhere but I think a well placed roll bar will be the right middle ground of safety. I know a race car cage can kill you in a minor accident and I also know our cars aren't exactly the most impact resistant from the factory. My conclusion is to have a hoop fitted as tightly to the body as possible, as far from the head as possible and skip the halo/full cage.

I rarely use the back seat anyway (no kids) and it's not like the bench seat/lap belts weren't a death trap before. The rear bars will be tucked along the roof and sail panels and ideally, the rear will get a couple of shoulder belts.

[Sean Cooke]

Attachment 69528Attachment 69527Attachment 69529Attachment 69530Attachment 69531

Nice, a well built setup will add an incredible amount of rigidity to a 40yr old car.
My only advice would be to square the body & frame up the best you can, these cars tend to be imperfect & you prob don't want the chassis or body drooping in a corner ...

[Twentyover]

Going to disagree in part w/ Bonehead here-

A compadre had a 6pt put into his Cortina, while the headliner was still in place. The 'tina used the then typical liner suspended by rods from the frame above the window. Looked good, the hoop and halo looked pretty tight against the headliner.

We then had occasion to remove the headliner. Holy cow, there were huge gaps between the roof tin and the hoop and halo. So I suggest removing the headliner, installing the cage, then upholstering around the cage. if you really want to protect your head, get the bar as far away from your noggin as you can.

[cactuss4]

Nice, a well built setup will add an incredible amount of rigidity to a 40yr old car.
My only advice would be to square the body & frame up the best you can, these cars tend to be imperfect & you prob don't want the chassis or body drooping in a corner ...

Where did this post come From, so the cross bar is at the base vs in the middle, so they can keep their rear seats? That looks really nice. But I wonder with the whole attaching to the frame, means you can't pull the body again without cutting the cage and rebuilding it right?

Tory

[Sean Cooke]

It's from my 1971 chevelle build thread..
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ect?highlight=

[switchblade327]

That cage looks fantastic, Sean!

Nice, a well built setup will add an incredible amount of rigidity to a 40yr old car.
My only advice would be to square the body & frame up the best you can, these cars tend to be imperfect & you prob don't want the chassis or body drooping in a corner ...

My chassis has the full Hellwig Frame FX setup (we measured before & after welding for square), rear control arm braces and SC&C front brace so it should be STIFF once the roll bar is in.

[Sean Cooke]

Where did this post come From, so the cross bar is at the base vs in the middle, so they can keep their rear seats? That looks really nice. But I wonder with the whole attaching to the frame, means you can't pull the body again without cutting the cage and rebuilding it right?

Tory

That's correct my frame & body are all connected the A-pillars, main hoop across the floor are welded to the A-pillar on the car & across the floor- The rest of the points all tie directly to the frame. A buddy built a 55 chevy after he saw mine and added joints with flush mounted Allen screws to lock everything in place. Not approved by any santioning body but it's a street car & he didn't care

[switchblade327]

Car is going in for the 6 point tomorrow! Here is the design I'm bringing with me for what is hopefully a safe, convenient street cage that doesn't eliminate the back seat. The headliner is out so the bars can be tucked away as much as possible. The door bars won't pass cert but will be more livable on the street while hopefully helping in the event of a side impact. The cross bar of the main hoop is down low like some Tiger Cages I've seen so I don't lose the back seat entirely.

Mockups here:
http://imgur.com/a/PAz3O

The only thing I'm iffy on is mounting my shoulder belt to the bar itself but I don't to have a harness or harness bar if I can avoid it.