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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States

      Salesguys 1967 firebird 400 Build Thread

      So I am going to use this thread to detail my build progress on the 67 Firebird.


      I bought the Car From Volo Auto museum. I will say it was an Easy experience. The car was explained well, but as you know when you are not there in person. You should prepare for a few Surprises..... Which I found!!


      This Car is actually for my wife as she has always wanted a "classic car" I am big into 3rd and 4th gen Firebirds and this is my first 1st gen.


      Initially I was going to leave it all stock, but as you will see below the direction has changed a bit.




      This is the Description of the Car from VOLO


      #íS MATCH, DOCUMENTED FIREBIRD 400. HAS PHS PAPERS, BUILD SHEET, PROTECTOPLATE AND MORE. VERY NICELY OPTIONED WITH AIR CONDITIONING DISC BRAKES, POWER WINDOWS AND MORE. HAS A BEAUTIFUL GLASS FINSH BLACK PAINT JOB. IT HAS RECHROMED BUMPERS, NEW EMBLEMS, NEW WINDSHIELD AND NEW DOOR WEATHERSTRIPS. CORRECTLY RESTORED RALLY II WHEELS WITH BFG TIRES. HAS VERY WELL CARED FOR ORIGINAL DELUXE INTERIOR. MOTOR WAS PULLED AND COMPARTMENT WAS DETAILED. TRANS REBUILT AND CLEANED. THE FLOORS ON THIS CAR ARE CLEAN METAL. CLEAN METAL TRUNK COMPARTMENT. HAS ORIGINAL COLLAPSIBLE SPARE & JACK. HAS BINDER OF MISC RECEIPTS, PHOTOS & HISTORY. ITíS A SHARP DESIREABLE CAR.



      Lets talk a bit about the "AD" and what I actually Got. I will start from the top.
      A/C - Is present but not working with a small rats nest of wires to figure out
      Disc Brakes - Present, but rotors are on last leg with one side has a seeping caliper
      Also the master cylinder and power booster was shot (not disclosed) ,but Volo is making it right
      -Power windows work, but when I got it the driver rear was stuck down. ( A Little lube and works great now)
      -Paint is VERY nice. Top Notch. HOWEVER. It wasnt disclosed to me that it was not the original color. That was
      a surprise when I received the PHS docs (in fairness I cant believe I looked over that detail)
      -The Rally II are ok..... someone didnt follow the stencil that well though.
      -Engine compartment is very nice the paint on the block is starting to peel in places but the rest is VERY presentable
      -Transmission WAS NOT rebuilt. IT came with receipts that show the original case was trash and a Reman Th400 was put in.
      - No Rust and this thing is SUPER solid.


      So finding out that it is not the original paint and the transmission was changed compounding the fact,, the brakes were toast. I have decided to take this car into what I would Call a Resto-mod. Not pro-touring type, but more of an updated driving experience.


      STARTING HERE.


      Took off the Rally II's and Installed 17X8 Rally inspired wheels that are Black with machined front.
      Tires are 225/45 front and 275/45 rear.


      Here are a couple of shots.














      This concludes the First Mods


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
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      71
      Country Flag: United States
      Next. I decided to start running down every wire in the car to make sure everything was good. I had an issue that with the key out the power windows would still operate. to make a long day short. It turns out it was a ground wire under the dash that was not connected. WIN for me!!!

      another issue was no horn. Ran that down to it simply not being connected. It has 2 horns, but one just clicks so I only hooked up the one and that is sufficient.

      Still working on getting the A/C wires ran down, but am going to save it for when I get the new components. Which I will post when that happens.

      In the process of Running down wire I lay down and feel somthing wet on the floorboard.. Guess what it was?

      OIL!!!!!!



      Turns out the previous owner went to disconnect a oil pressure gauge and it leaked oil all over the driver floor board...... I called VOLO and they made this right for me so kudos to them.

      I DIDNT want to replace the carpet...

      So hmm when you rip out all of the interior might as well install some nice sound / heat insulation.
      This actually took longer than I thought like HOURS
      The product is Thermo-tec I used 4 rolls of 15 SF.








      Carpet hasnt arrived yet, will show you guys the results as it comes.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      Remeber that Resto-mod theme?

      Well with the front rotors at near end of life and the 4 piston calipers needing a rebuild I got Something else.
      Firs the logic behind this was that the Only replacement rotors that work for factory disc brakes are about $250 then a caliper rebuild kit is about $120. This is not going to be a concurs type original so.......

      I bought a Wicked set of Wilwood Brake Kit. I didnt go to crazy as this is an entry kit, They make good stuff and this should for sure give much better braking with the wider tires and these discs.

      The install is Fairly straightforward and the instructions are fabulous. I took my time and torqued as instructed and used loc-tite as recommended.

      Here are the Install Progresss. Oh one thing to mention. The studs are 1/2 inch so I have to go buy different lug nuts as mine are to small. (thats not what she said ) nudge nudge...






    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      Guess what? Brake LEAK. it is at the factory distribution block / proportioning valve.
      Waiting for the UPS man to bring that part.

      But I do have this For another Day. a Complete MSD setup.

      upside down. sorry :(

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      all original parts are going to be stored and marked.

      Also yes the Wilwood kit has braided stainless lines.

      Today I got the New carpet in and while the seats were out did a Detail cleaning on them. They came out Very Nice.

      Here is the New Carpet from ACC laying out in the Sun getting set



      Getting There..



      Almost...



      still going



      The biggest issue was The Thermo-tec I put down is really thick and the adhesive is gummy. So trying to bolt in the seats and console was a pain. That took the longest.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      This is the Kit on Wilwood Site. Something I didnt realize is the studs are 1/2 inch so had to buy some lug nuts just for the front. The rear are stock size.

      I did just the Front. They are 11 inch rotors. The stock 14 inch wheels do not fit, but I bet 15's would OR 14's with the correct disc brake offset which the rally's that came with the car were to close for comfort anyway.

      http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...no=140-10996-D

      I bought the it from amazon which was about $100 cheaper.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      So Today I was trying to finish up the Brakes.. Installing the Stainless wilwood lines was Easy with the exception of running into a small problem. The stock rubber lines go into a bracket on the frame and are round with a flat side. So I had to modify (file it open) to fit.

      Here is a Pic of the Stainless lines hooked up.



      Ok I know. not completly hooked up. The passenger side fitting had a bit of corrision on it and when I went to loosen it you can guess what happened. Snapped off. So Tomorrow off to Autozone to kit new brake lines for the front. Might as well replace the whole line.

      Second issue I had was the new Proportining vavle mounts in a different spot and the lines dont reach.
      This saved some money rather than buying 2 pieces the factory disc brakes had.



      So Tommorow Hopefully will be able to get the brakes done!
      In between fighting with the brakes I worked on a couple of bugs in the interior. As ALL the courtesy light bulbs were missing. Traced wires, all looked good so didnt understand why there were no bulbs. installed new bulbs
      Bam all lit up...... Then Shut the door and they stayed on. Ok Now I know why they were no bulbs in..... Im sure you guys know how to fix it. After a few minutes scratching my head easy deal just adjust the springy push pin thing (not sure what they are actually called). all good go on and off as they should with the door open as well as the light switch.

      Interior 95% done. just a couple odds and ends. will finish that tomorrow while taking a break from the brakes!

      So Finally got the Brakes done. The passenger side brake line sheared off when trying to undo the fitting. So I had to re run a brake line under the engine on in the factory spot. talk about a PAIN!! The new brake line I bought from Autozone was this armor coated kind Bends Really Easy, but it is a tad bigger then 5/16 so in the flaring tool I had to end up filing a bit of the coating off so it would seal in the flare. This took the longest time trying to route and flare the line. Started to bleed the brakes and had a Massive Pressure leak. anyone that does brake work make sure you have a line wrench sso you can really torque it down just enough so you have no leaks.
      All good! no leaks and they stop great. Did the break in procedure to seat the pads. Still have to adjust the rear drums which I didnt even do yet so it has more of a nose dive than it should at the moment.

      For the last couple days I have worked on getting the ignition system complete. The MSD is really top notch stuff.
      Here is a pic again of the components I installed



      Thanks to this forums I searched an found out about not using the resistor wire and wired the IGN wire directly under the dash in the IGN fuse. Also ground is VERY important. I had an issue with the system cutting out and I had the ground from the dizzy to the firewall where the strap for the block went. No go. One Thing I have learned so far is these cars like dedicated grounds for Accessories etc.

      Here is a pic of the hole before I stabbed it and cleaned the old gasket.



      Also here is the Box before I wire loomed everything.



      So when I got it running it wouldnt turn off. THANKS again to this forum search I found I needed the diode on the number 4 brown wire off the voltage regulator.

      I couldnt find any info on timing marks, but I set it to the second from the top. all done with the vaccum advance capped off. Runs AWESOME. Cranks AWESOME!

      Next on the list is a new Jet performance stage 2 carb, Classic Auto Air engine upgrade kit, clutch fan, lower filler panel, electronic temp gauge, front spoiler.

      Can you Say drain your wallet!!!!!$$$$$$$$$$$$$

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      WHEW Lots of stuff done since my last update.

      First I will start off with this. I go the lower fiberglass filler panel installed. It seemed to have the two rubber pieces beside the radiator, but was missing the lower filler panel. Just want to make sure all cooling aspects are present. installed a clutch Fan with clutch that I searched up on here for the Hayden Part number works better than the flex fan also installed a 160 thermostat. Still running about 210 in stop in go at 90 degree heat. and about 190 at 45 cruising. Have a new 4 Core Champion aluminum radiator on its way hope that helps even more.

      So for the lower filler I know a lot of people say the quality isnt the best, but after drilling holes in it to line up with the factory holes, using 1/4 x 20 bolts with "speed nuts" it holds in place very nicely! I went ahead and added a camaro front spoiler for looks as well as the additional downforce you guys say it creates. here are some pics .

      Here you can see the Filler panel with the Spoiler. I had to go to the zone for a cheap tap and die kit for the middle spoiler support bar not shown in pic


      Next you can see the finished product!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      A/C SYSTEM!!!

      Wow, Money, Time, Headache, Learning experience.

      I bought the Classic Auto Air Engine upgrade kit.
      Basically it is a new Sanden Compressor, lines, and condenser drier setup.

      Also purchased separately a POA valve re calibrated for 134 , new evaporator, new oriface tube, new relays

      So the WHOLE A/C system is brand new. Thanks to the A/C hall of fame thread which helped quite a bit as the Classic auto air instructions were "ok" , but didnt cover the original components.

      First thing was to take out the old evaporator.





      as you can see all those old leaves and such, all cleaned out now of course.

      Im VERY happy I didnt break the plastic Case. Last time I changed one it was my s-10 and ripped the case in half! not fun. Anyway it went pretty smooth.

      So I get the New Evaporator ready to put in, but first there are these little tabs that need to be bent up. The tabs are for the screw to go in between to hold the evap core tight in the suitcase.
      In the process of being extremely Gentle this is what happens....



      The tabs were like soldered onto the fins. Im freaking out right now and pissed at the same time. I call CAA and he said to send pics. I told him im in the middle of an install and please get back to me right away. tick tock tick tock. After about an Hour I call back and he says it should be ok as those dont hold pressure. I took his word for it. BTW the system held vacuum -29.9 for over 40 minutes so I guess he was right!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      Evap Installed



      Tightened all screws and used black RTV to seal around the case.

      Next On to the Condenser install.
      Very straightforward. Simply remove the kidney pans and test fit the bracket. Two small holes and secure with Tek Screws that are supplied.



      See easy.

      Next was attaching the drier.

      One thing I learned about the A/C stuff is use the supplied gaskets and mineral oil liberally.





      The two wires are the pressure switch. On my 67 the green wire goes to one of the white ones then the other white goes to the compressor, just makes a circuit.

      Time to mount the Compressor. This caused me the most pain. I watched a video on youtube of a guy that has a 68 and did the compressor install and the belt he used would simply not work with my kit. Finally just said screw it and went with what the instructions recommend which was a 60 inch belt. Still to long the magic was 59.5 for me.

      Also what toms poncho video on youtube did get right was the bracket says to use two spacers between the block/head and the mounting plate for compressor. However as tomsponcho pointed out this makes the compressor to forward and belt hits the pully. Anyway got it perfect now.



      you can see it mounted in the top left.

      So ran all the A/C lines. all hook up fine with some contortion. Note that two lines need to have the fittings crimped. Have to measure it out, mark it, then either send the hoses back to classic air for them to crimp for free or find someone local. Luckily after a few calls I found a Hydraulic hose shop about 20 mins away. He said now problem. went there and for a whole $8 he crimped them for me. I gave him a $20 as I was happy to get them done with no wait! Big hydraulic press to crimp them and was super legit.

      Here it is with the POA Valve as well.


      I think Im ready to get it charged!!!!!!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      Went to my friends Auto shop (hes a friend, but still charges). And they could not get the A/C machines hoses to tighten on the POA valve. the Evap box is in the way and you dont want to bend or break the evap lines. After a while of thinking it over,, they advised we find a r-12 to 134 , 90 degree fitting. Went on a mission and luckily Orielly's in the next town had one in stock. $15 later had the fitting.

      Put it on and Bingo I have a 29.9 vacuum for 40 minutes. Im relieved since I put the whole system together and prayed for no leaks. also at the shop put the tar tape on as well. Here is the finished product!!




      see the 90?

      Blows COLD!!!!!

      And the wiring is all much better now. I had it mocked up.

      back to a previous post. Here is my MSD wiring

      Before.


      After.


      wire looms are a pita...

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Pensacola, FL
      Posts
      1,244
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      Looking good. You have tackled a lot of issues in short amount of time. Enjoyed following your repairs

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      71
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks! the next big expense is going to be suspension and getting some awesome Ideas on this Forum!!

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2011
      Location
      Connecticut
      Posts
      925
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      Quote Originally Posted by salesguy01 View Post
      Thanks! the next big expense is going to be suspension and getting some awesome Ideas on this Forum!!
      Suspension is always the money pit, BUT once its done your car will handle so much better


      1967 Firebird "Poor-Boy Build"
      New updated thread
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...bird-(Updates)
      Follow me on Instagram @NaturalLivingMan



    15. #15
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,188
      Country Flag: United States
      Like what you've done to the car. Like others have said, suspension will be one of the biggest expense, so don't skimp on it (you don't want to do it twice). Nice choice on the new wheels.

      Looking forward to seeing new updates.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

    16. #16
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      Apr 2007
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      Austin, TX
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      Country Flag: Mexico
      cool project!

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
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      So I went ahead after doing some research and Talking with Hotchkis and got this kit.

      Name:  67-69-camarofirebird-tvs-system-small-blockproducpromo_pic.jpg
Views: 1485
Size:  101.7 KB'

      With These Shocks

      Name:  1967-1969-camarofirebird-hotchkis-tuned-15-strepromo_pic.jpg
Views: 1510
Size:  73.7 KB

      I pieced together the Whole kit so I didnt go with the Rear Sway Bar for now. Basically ordered the part numbers they say is in the kit minus the rear sway bar.

      Yall think this will make the old bird Handle better than 47 year old Shocks and coils?!?!?!

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Apr 2007
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
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      Country Flag: Mexico
      from what I have read the hotchkis kit isnt the best for the pontiac engine, which lies between the SBC and BBC. Some Poncho guys I have seen say that it was basically a Camaro only kit.

      For what its worth

      Also I have read that the Hotchkis rear sway bar set up isnt the best due to the way it mounts

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Aug 2011
      Location
      Connecticut
      Posts
      925
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      Just make sure you get it for a big block car. Should work well with the poncho motor.


      1967 Firebird "Poor-Boy Build"
      New updated thread
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...bird-(Updates)
      Follow me on Instagram @NaturalLivingMan



    20. #20
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
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      While you're changing out the front springs/shocks, look into updating the arms as well, at least the upper arms. Either change them out or do the gulfstrand mod. Look up "gulfstrand mod" online for the why and the how to's.

      Good call on the rear sway bar. You can't install the bar anyway due the traction bars in the way.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

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