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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Location
      Hickory Creek TX.
      Posts
      15
      Country Flag: United States

      1969 fast back mustang build

      Ok I'm posting up my build that I'm going to do,I have a lot of questions I would like opinions from y'all . Ok I bought a car off eBay ,it's a base model car nothing fancy.
      so I get the car and man the pan is gone( I was supposed to be sold a driver) so I'm going to build a full frame full cage, all new pans, fire wall ect....
      suspension question, I'm considering c4 suspension for sure on front and maybe on back too, or 4 link coil overs.
      So first question is what about the c4 idea ?
      second is motorist has a 351 in it runs but I want hp and a lot of it, so I'm considering 5.4 modular dohc ford engine , 6 speed tranny.
      the reason I'm asking is because we are living in my shop while we remodel our house and I cant do much to car except buy,trade barter parts.
      so my build will be slow at first but as soon as I get my shop back it will roll.
      anyway let me know y'all's opinions please.
      and let me say there are so many cool builds on here wow.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2014
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States
      I am also just getting started in the transformation of my 69 Mach 1. I can't give you an opinion on the C4 idea... However, Control Freaks and ridetech make nice suspension set ups. The front are pretty much bolt on and utilize the stock mounting location for factor designed load where they are supposed to be.... Rear requires some welding, but is nothing major. Both are around $4k for a nice coil over set up with new front arms and a nice triangulated 4-link rear set up.

      If you are going with a full frame setup, Schwartz is a nice set up and probably the best bang for the buck on a full bolt in chassis. At least from the ones I have looked at so far. Some of those other companies are on crack with their prices...

      I am basically starting with a rust free, fully restored car (I already took care of that part of it) so I am going either the ridetech or Control Freaks route. However, I have a future 69 Charger project and am leaning heavily towards the Schwartz route for that build.

      As far as engines go, just build the Windsor with some Aluminum heads and call it good. Add fuel injection and or a blower if you want to make big power. There are so many supercharger setups out there cheap from 5.0's (as in fox body 5.0) that easily adapt to a 351w. Windsor stuff is cheap (with the exception of aftermarket blocks) and it is proven power.

      5.4 engines are just freakin huge! The supercharged version is great in a f150 Lightning (I.E. truck with lots if room) or in a new Mustang that was designed with a mod motor in mind. Shock towers in the 69 will be a clearance issue with the mod motor. Coyote engines are great, but the parts to complet the swap are almost as much as the engine itself. I ran into that issue on a Fox-Coyote swap. It's just not a practical swap yet for the money. If you have unlimited $$ then do what you want. I am just giving you an opinion from a normal guy with normal-ish funds.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Posts
      18
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a 1969 Fastback I have been working on for awhile. Mine has a 428 CJ in it that has bigger cam, head work, modified Streetmaster, Quick Fuel 780 and MSD ignition. It makes more power than you could ever use on the street. When I got it it was not very fast so I started work on a 482" Side Oiler but once I put the MSD and new Carb on the 428 came to life. So the Side Oiler will stay wrapped on engine stand until 428 is worn out. Big blocks in a 1969 are a PIA to work on.

      With that said either a 351 W or 351 Cleaveland can be made to make tons of power. I would stick with that motor and work it over

      Mods done to my 69 are as follows.

      Shelby front suspension mods. Welding towers, bracing Lower control arms, sway bar, Heavy Export brace. Fire wall reinforcement . Koni shocks.
      Welded rear frame. Rear tub installed/welded. It was a drag car before I got it so the rear was set up well for straight line I just modded it for going in circles Welded rear shock pan reinforcement. Lots of welded support and now the car is stiff. Handles well.

      Power disk brakes all around. Got mod kit for power brakes and added rear kit that uses 1980 Eldorado rear calipers. Brakes work great now.

      Rear has posi with 3.90 gears. With 4 speed toploader its real quick but sucks on freeway. I plane on 6 speed later on 3.90 is good gear for Drag and 6 speed street but not good for freeway.

      Since my back seat is basically tiny after tub. I built a cage and made a small compartment where I will hide stereo amp and a breaker box for the added on goodies.

      I added Vintage air. Which took a lot of time but was worth it.

      Dakota digital made the gauge console and its a work of art

      The tub and frame work made a smaller compartment for gas tank so I went 25 gallon fuel cell. Rear battery.


      Right now I am rebuilding door hinges and getting ready for paint

      My goal is fast street cruiser.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      SLC
      Posts
      660
      Having traveled a long way down a similar road, I now have some opinoins on what I would have done different, whether or not my ideas are right for you depends on your budget ability level. I started with a decent body, added full roll cage, Griggs suspension, 305/35/r18 all the way around and a 418 ci LS. Knowing what I know now, If I had to do it again I would definitely try to stay away from aftermarket suspension companies, and use more OEM parts off newer cars. I might have also stuck more with the original platform and done more of a trans-am inspired build. With you starting out with a car in need of floor pans and firewall, I would consider it even more of a clean slate. Build your own frame, use the front end off the car of your choice, or design your own. build your own 3 link for the rear. Engine options at his point are limitless, a coyote would be cool and very functional, but not unique. An all aluminum 429 would be awesome if you really want to spend some money. Building your own frame will give you a lot more options with ride height, underbody aero, and wheel size. Whatever you decide, have a good plan and stick to it or you will just end up with a hacked up mustang body in the end. Good Luck.
      Zach

      1970 Mach 1 build - Half-Breed (pro-touring.com)

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Location
      Hickory Creek TX.
      Posts
      15
      Country Flag: United States

      1969 fast back mustang build

      Ok I should have given more detail about my abilities and the build.
      I'm a good fabricator and mechanic, crap for body work.
      So I can build the frame and such, money well I won't spend it for something I can do or build,
      I like a challenge, and the guys on another mustang forum were rude about the vett idiea so now I really want to do it, lol.
      The car is a blank slate , I can get the c4/5 suspension for 500$ that leaves a lot for other stuff ( motor, tyranny ,ect)
      And I don't want shock towers so I can put what ever motor I come up with.
      There are so many good ideas on here , it's hard to stay focused on one way to go.
      I appreciate all comments and ideas .
      I plan to gather as many parts as I can while I'm not able to use my shop, to speed it up when I do get back in.
      So keep em coming guys we will get a plan together and see how it turns out.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Posts
      427
      Country Flag: United States
      stay away from the 4.6 modular motors, big bulky heavy garbage. if you want to spend that kind of money get a dart based small bearing 351w stroked out to 408 or 427, 500 hp EASY and fairly cheap.700 and up with a procharger, which isn't even a bulky setup, or you could do an LS swap. as far as suspension goes... can't comment too much, i kinda see it as running in circles, sure it's more complicated, but what do you REALLY NEED? performance on the ground via actual numbers will tell you whats up. a properly sprung, (4 link rear if you don't want leafs or a truck arm nascar style rear is simple and good) basic suspension will make you much happier because you'll be driving the car much sooner than a complicated oddball setup... check out the meir racing mustang coupe... other than the uber cool remote shock rear setup its a very simple car that kicks butt with a basic windsor ford 302 and stock style front suspension...

      anything you set up thats uber complicated will basically frustrate the crap out of you because you'll be doing your own R&D... and that'll eat up all your resources and leave nothing for the actual car untill you give up and sell it off or it sits for 10 years... the KISS method really wins out sometimes.

      stay away from the 4.6... and as far as rear suspension, you'll be happy with either leafs, 4 link or nascar style truck arm....

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Location
      Hickory Creek TX.
      Posts
      15
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by lucky13firebird View Post
      stay away from the 4.6 modular motors, big bulky heavy garbage. if you want to spend that kind of money get a dart based small bearing 351w stroked out to 408 or 427, 500 hp EASY and fairly cheap.700 and up with a procharger, which isn't even a bulky setup, or you could do an LS swap. as far as suspension goes... can't comment too much, i kinda see it as running in circles, sure it's more complicated, but what do you REALLY NEED? performance on the ground via actual numbers will tell you whats up. a properly sprung, (4 link rear if you don't want leafs or a truck arm nascar style rear is simple and good) basic suspension will make you much happier because you'll be driving the car much sooner than a complicated oddball setup... check out the meir racing mustang coupe... other than the uber cool remote shock rear setup its a very simple car that kicks butt with a basic windsor ford 302 and stock style front suspension...

      anything you set up thats uber complicated will basically frustrate the crap out of you because you'll be doing your own R&D... and that'll eat up all your resources and leave nothing for the actual car untill you give up and sell it off or it sits for 10 years... the KISS method really wins out sometimes.

      stay away from the 4.6... and as far as rear suspension, you'll be happy with either leafs, 4 link or nascar style truck arm....
      Wasn't going 4.6, was looking at 5.4, I am a fan of the stroked 351/ 428 , I was thinking every thing you could see on the car without the hood open ,would just look 69 ish interior included, but open the hood and look under the car would be very modern.
      Just a thought .
      I want this car to handle very good, for those track days and the ocasional times a vett try's to pass me on the road.
      I want to stay ford power plant, thinking of the ls for my wife's 80 ta.
      Thanks for the input .

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Indpls, IN
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      The 5.4L is just a a bigger version of the 4.6L. The 351w is a 5.8L.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      9
      Country Flag: United States
      If you are looking for power, I think you are better to stay with 4.6 over the 5.4 only due aftermarket support. Some of the 5.4s had issues shooting the spark plugs out too under boost. Start with a teskid(AL) and put the cobra(03-04) rotating assembly in. The 4.6 really thrives off a supercharger. By itself, it is really not very impressive... You are better off with a 351 based stroker if you are staying NA. A Windsor based motor would definitely be an easier build due to its simplicity and can be every bit as powerful and likely cheaper/cutting. A coyote motor seems to be a popular swap as of late and shows a lot of promise. You may want to consider that too.
      Kevin

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Posts
      135
      Country Flag: United States
      Glad to hear you're staying with Ford power for your Mustang project, LS engine is nice but IHMO it don't belong in a Ford. I agree with some that the Coyote or 4.6 4V is probably a better option than the 5.4 but that's jus my opinion. 5.4 4V is 1 5/8" wider and weighs about 115 lbs more than the 4.6 4V. Coyote weighs 444 lbs. Whatever you go with, I wish you luck.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Redwood City, CA
      Posts
      69
      i went with a 351w and stroked it! best investment I ever made! need to do a 6speed soon though.... h8 not having money to do it. lol

      1969 Mustang Coupe 392w Stroker




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