Brake line and master Cylinder selection

[raustinss]

I need some help I have a 70 ss Chevelle I plan on using the new hpi customs frame brace kit. My questions are

#1 Should I form my own lines? If so use stainless steel or the nickel coated stuff?
What brand of benders and flaring tools should I use?

#2 should I buy factory lines made of stainless steel for a convertible and hope I can make them
Fit?

#3 what should I use for a booster and master. My brakes are 2006-2011 Z06



Thanks for any and all help

[kevmurray]

Hi Ryan,
I understand stainless is pretty much the gold standard but I used the nickel plated stuff and it was great to work with. Bends easily and because it's thicker walled it's very forgiving if you "free bend" it by hand. The alloy is softer too so any tools work well. Time will tell how they stand up but considering we dont drive these cars in the winter they are probably the last lines I will ever buy.

As for what master/booster to use, you will have to list your current setup including piston diameters before anyone can help with that. Re-read the Ron Sutton/Tobin Knighton thread on brake selection. State your goals also.

[Apogee]

I would run the Ni-Copp/Cunifer/etc tubing...I haven't used anything else since I first used it 6+ years ago. All the corrosion resistance of stainless without any of the PITA factor in working with it. Due to the ease with which it cuts, bends, flares, etc, no special tools are required, unlike stainless. The Ni-Copp tubing has been in use for almost 100 years IIRC and is standard OE-fare on several modern European makes/models, so I would say that it has withstood the test of time already.

Also, FWIW, it isn't nickel plated tubing, it's a nickel alloy...90% copper, 9% nickel and 1% iron.

As for the MC/booster, I would suggest a 1" bore MC with a dual-9" booster for C6 Z06 brakes assuming you have adequate vacuum levels to power the booster.

Tobin
KORE3

[raustinss]

Hey guys thanks...cunifer that's the damn name I couldn't think of. The one benefit to the stainless was in could order them as factory replacement...but I did like the idea of doing my own. Any recommendations as to where I should order them from and as to size. I want a solid pedal like a daily driver .

[zamora7]

Had a friend that removed his abs stuff from one of his cars, tried the stainless and he couldn't get them to so leaking. Went with the regular stuff and problem solved.

[ADiCarlo]

What about cunifer and e85?. Does anyone know how they react?

[raustinss]

What about cunifer and e85?. Does anyone know how they react?

At the risk of sounding like a dick....you are aware I was talking about brake lines. Not fuel lines?
I will assume you did and are wondering about using it as a fuel line. My questions are why are you asking? Do you plan on using e85 all the time? E85 does yes make more power but you'll go thru much more from a efficiency point of view, which from what I know is why most people don't use it. The power gains are lost in the poor fuel, economy

[ADiCarlo]

Yeah I know we were discussing brakes lines but seeing people with experience using cunifer where responding I jumped in. Not trying to thread jack... Sorry.

The purpose of using e85 is for a turbo application. E85 does require more fuel to obtain the same output but it's octane is higher and runs cooler for turbo applications this allowing more boost.

[raustinss]

No no no don't you apologize..non needed I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page and you weren't thinking I was asking about doing all the lines on my car . All I get what you're saying with the turbo app. Can't you keep the egt down with timing and exhaust/turbo wraps and covers? ...or I'm I drunk lol?

[snappytravis]

I think you can buy the cunifer or copper nickel stuff at the local parts house, I looked at it and you could buy different lengths. I used stainless on my car and bought a hydraulic flare tool, It wasn't to bad, a few leaks, Usually just loosen the fitting and tighten back up turning another half turn took care of it, I also bought a cheap harbor freight bender worked good, IMOP I don't think it can be flared correctly with a hand flare tool. Good luck

[ADiCarlo]

No no no don't you apologize..non needed I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page and you weren't thinking I was asking about doing all the lines on my car . All I get what you're saying with the turbo app. Can't you keep the egt down with timing and exhaust/turbo wraps and covers? ...or I'm I drunk lol?

You can... but having fuel with 100+ octane at around 2.30 a gallon (granted you do have to pump more) can also help immensely.

[raustinss]

You can... but having fuel with 100+ octane at around 2.30 a gallon (granted you do have to pump more) can also help immensely.

Ok sounds good..lol I had to ask some of my dorky turbo (talon, supra, jetta )import boys for info too

[sheck44]

I would run the Ni-Copp/Cunifer/etc tubing...I haven't used anything else since I first used it 6+ years ago. All the corrosion resistance of stainless without any of the PITA factor in working with it. Due to the ease with which it cuts, bends, flares, etc, no special tools are required, unlike stainless. The Ni-Copp tubing has been in use for almost 100 years IIRC and is standard OE-fare on several modern European makes/models, so I would say that it has withstood the test of time already.

Also, FWIW, it isn't nickel plated tubing, it's a nickel alloy...90% copper, 9% nickel and 1% iron.

As for the MC/booster, I would suggest a 1" bore MC with a dual-9" booster for C6 Z06 brakes assuming you have adequate vacuum levels to power the booster.

Tobin
KORE3

I'm just trying this out now ... Tobin is correct, its simply awesome to work with. Ryan, I got the 25 foot kit off ebay for like $50

Steve

[MonzaRacer]

http://www.surrauto.com/documents/SU...rakeTubing.pdf

Here you go.
I love this companies fuel line kit and will be using the brake line on both projects. They have an awesome break kit that gives line and multiple fittings both standard and metric.

I use a Master Cool hydraulic flaring tool, BUT I use the reamer and then file outer edge. This is even done on steel line and before I did the prep work I got crooked flares, broke flaring mandrels.
As for the corrosion factor CUNIFER stands for copper, nickel, Ferrous (ie steel).
Volvo has used it for years off their master cylinders.
While stainless is supposed to be the preferred if using E85 the CUNIFER product is VERY much similar.