Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 8 of 8
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      Missouri
      Posts
      35
      Country Flag: United States

      Another Firewall Smoothing Question -- Order of Operations

      I searched and searched, but didn't find a specific answer to what order to get to smoothed firewall. This project is a long, drawn out operation with my youngest son and myself -- 6 years and counting. We're making progress, albeit, slow. Takes time and money and both are often hard to come by. Enough said, the question is: Do I need to purchase the Vintage Air unit and mock that up before adding panels on the firewall? This is on a GM A-Body car, a 1971 Olds Cutlass Supreme. I've read the Vintage Air install manual and it seems there bolts that go through the firewall. I've attached my firewall and an excerpt from Vintage Air installation manual.



      --GaryB
      Attached Images Attached Images    


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States

      Another Firewall Smoothing Question -- Order of Operations

      Looks like you're right. We usually weld bolts to the inside of the firewall so you can't see them from the engine bay.

      -Dale
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Austin Texas
      Posts
      641
      Is that the sure fit system or the magnum?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Location
      Carson City, NV
      Posts
      861
      Country Flag: United States
      I smothed my firewall first then used these http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-bolts/=ral3se (Perforated Base Studs) to attach my VA Unit
      Last edited by ChevelleNV; 03-28-2014 at 04:29 PM.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Texarkana, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      I purchased a mock-up Vintage air unit to make sure I put it in the right spot. Depending on how you are going to smooth your firewall, you may end up mounting it a bit differently than it would if you didn't change it. The mock-up units aren't very expensive.
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Tennessee
      Posts
      814
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by renegade6 View Post
      I purchased a mock-up Vintage air unit to make sure I put it in the right spot. Depending on how you are going to smooth your firewall, you may end up mounting it a bit differently than it would if you didn't change it. The mock-up units aren't very expensive.
      ^^^This, the mock kit was only $58 shipped for me. Once I'm ready to buy my system, if I'll send the mock kit back they will credit my account the cost minus shipping.
      66 Chevelle - LS-Leap

      LQ9 / T56 Complete - Phase 2 in process!!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...t-LS-Heap-quot
      SC&C, Kore3, Detroit Speed, BBS, Advanced Induction, TickPerf, Currie, Moser, Holley, Hellwig, Edelbrock LS-Kit, Mast, Wilwood, BP-Automotive, StopTech, Ridetech, Hotchkis, UMI, Energy Suspension, AAW, B&B Classic's, PPG, Aeromotive, Canton, C&R, Sparco, Ididit, Spectre, Bridgestone, DakotaDigital, Alpine, RockfordFosgate

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Santa Clara, CA
      Posts
      622
      Country Flag: United States
      2 FYIs--If you are converting to a hydraulic clutch you might want to consider welding in the clutch master cylinder bracket, and if you are re-wiring the car, you might want to double check that the fuse panel of the replacement wiring system is the same size as the original. On my 67 Camaro the AAW fuse panel is slightly larger and it would have been good had the builder caught that before the bodywork was buttoned up.
      Steve

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      Missouri
      Posts
      35
      Country Flag: United States
      The plan is to use separate master cylinders (front, rear and clutch) similar to what Tim is using on his project "The WidowMaker".

      As for the electrical, current plan to use a 3-cell ISIS system. That's good to know about the 'mock-up' unit available from Vintage Air. I'll check on that. I did see another post where some vertical braces were welded from the toe-board up against the firewall on the inside to create a mounting bracket to the Vintage Air.. That way, nothing had to go through the firewall.
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Last edited by gbledsoe3; 03-30-2014 at 09:11 AM. Reason: added signature
      GaryB

      Current Project: 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
      Current plans include: Full RideTech Coil-Overs, Olds 455, Holley Terminator EFI, Edelbrock heads, Tremec T56 Magnum, custom dash, custom console, Dakota Digitial VXH-1017 gauge cluster, manual brakes, 3.42 gears, etc...




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com