Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 15 of 15
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Posts
      26
      Country Flag: United States

      Drop Spindles, springs, Control arms... What to do

      I have a 72 Chevelle wagon that I want to or must do some suspension upgrades to but I want to keep it at its current stance. Right now I have Tubular upper Control Arms and springs with spacers up front. In the rear I have springs that have been shortened with wire and on the other side have generic spring compressors. I was thinking about just replacing all the springs with 2" up front and 2 or 3" in the rear. Then I started to read about drop spindles and how they are better for steering geometry. SO I have basically researched to where my head is spinning and have probably confused my self. I just want to know what will give the best combo of ride and handling with out braking the bank. I also plan on upgrading to bigger brakes up front and doing a disk conversion in the rear.
      I really don't plan on turning it into a track car but I plan on doing a lot of driving in it sometimes spirited. It will basically be a daily driver that I could take to the track on occasion.
      So any suggestions and recommendations are appreciated.
      (Current Stance on 20'S)
      Name:  New Wheels.jpg
Views: 1883
Size:  186.3 KB
      (Rear Passenger spring)
      Name:  Rear Spring Wire.jpg
Views: 2303
Size:  172.2 KB
      (Front Spring Spacer)
      Name:  Front spring spacers.jpg
Views: 1314
Size:  203.5 KB
      (Upper Control Arm)
      Name:  Front Upper CA.jpg
Views: 793
Size:  204.5 KB



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      you drive it like that?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Posts
      26
      Country Flag: United States
      Not a whole lot. Been fixing some mechanical things on it. Had a buddy look at it and said its fine to tool around in locally but that is it. The springs still function like they should.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      dont drive it like that. in fact.. undo that crazy crap and do it properly and safely.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Posts
      26
      Country Flag: United States
      No way am I going to even attempt to cut those cables. I am planning on buying new springs, just trying to decide between 2 and 3" drop springs.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2012
      Posts
      131
      Country Flag: United States
      Interesting, never seen that trick before. just tell everybody you did it just to check the stance.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Lawrenceburg, TN
      Posts
      4,098
      Country Flag: United States
      what the hell!!!!!!! that scares me a little bit...... and I'm fearless....I shuddered for a second



      Quote Originally Posted by skon1212 View Post
      (rear passenger spring)
      Name:  Rear Spring Wire.jpg
Views: 2303
Size:  172.2 KB

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Posts
      26
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Rod View Post
      what the hell!!!!!!! that scares me a little bit...... and I'm fearless....I shuddered for a second
      How do you think I felt when I saw it. When I jack up the rear by the frame in front of the rear tire the spring basically falls out. May be a little too compressed! I will be replacing soon. Just not sure what size spring to replace it with.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Iowa
      Posts
      399
      Country Flag: United States
      I would think for a few bucks more then the price of lowered springs you could get a set of viking coil over shocks and get new springs and an adjustable ride right.
      Miles Boyer
      The car hobby is dangerous,if the speed doesn't kill you, the cost of parts will.
      91 V8 S10
      88 Cutlass Pro-Tour
      97 Chevy lifted Z-71
      96 Corvette

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2013
      Posts
      26
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by silvermonte View Post
      I would think for a few bucks more then the price of lowered springs you could get a set of viking coil over shocks and get new springs and an adjustable ride right.
      I have thought about coil overs and still may do them in the front but the rears are $$ and require some welding. I guess the QA1's are bolt on but still pricey. Springs will be about $350 and front and rear coil overs closer to $1300. Still an option though.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Iowa
      Posts
      399
      Country Flag: United States
      If you go with Matts Classic Bowties, its about $850 for the set, front and back for double adjustable coilovers.
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ers-and-shocks
      Miles Boyer
      The car hobby is dangerous,if the speed doesn't kill you, the cost of parts will.
      91 V8 S10
      88 Cutlass Pro-Tour
      97 Chevy lifted Z-71
      96 Corvette

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by skon1212 View Post
      No way am I going to even attempt to cut those cables. I am planning on buying new springs, just trying to decide between 2 and 3" drop springs.
      attach a real spring compressor then snip snip. if you have something to take the slack off itll be fine.

      how low u want to go really depends. will the 2" rear springs level it out with the 2" drop spindles? or will it be higher and if so, by how much?

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      49,371
      Country Flag: United States
      I think CoilOvers are Overkill for your car and how you are going to use it.

      You mentioned a Budget (or Breaking the Bank). I would go with Lowering Springs & put your other Money towards Brakes . Our Lowering Spring Package (all 4 Corners) run $269.95

      T.C.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by skon1212 View Post
      I have thought about coil overs and still may do them in the front but the rears are $$ and require some welding. I guess the QA1's are bolt on but still pricey. Springs will be about $350 and front and rear coil overs closer to $1300. Still an option though.
      Just so you can accurately look at the options
      Viking Fronts double adjustable are 574.00 inc wrenches for adjustment and the complete rear coil over conversion is 849.00 all available from Speedtech
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,665
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by HellPhish89 View Post
      attach a real spring compressor then snip snip. if you have something to take the slack off itll be fine.

      how low u want to go really depends. will the 2" rear springs level it out with the 2" drop spindles? or will it be higher and if so, by how much?
      He should be able to cut the cable with the weight of the car on the ground. Its not like the spring can shoot out, the weight of the car is holding it down.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Forgeline, Speedtech, ATS, Speartech, KORE3, Ridetech coilovers

      Project Motor City Madness




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com