Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
    Results 41 to 60 of 121
    1. #41
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      York, Pa
      Posts
      457
      Cool car!

      Justin Snow


    2. #42
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GNon18s View Post
      Cool car!
      Thank you!

    3. #43
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Made a custom brake push rod today to work with the new manual brakes and the CNC dual master cylinder. Please watch the video and make any comments if you see any design issues with the pushrod. I think it is going to hold up just fine but second opinions are always nice

      The video is long, shows the design, install, and finished product. The design shows how I sleeved the hole in the brake pedal to make it a snug fit for the bolt that goes through the brake pedal and hiem joint..... anyway, enjoy.


    4. #44
      Join Date
      Jan 2012
      Location
      Virginia
      Posts
      237
      Country Flag: United States
      I don't see any issues in regards to the shear area of the bolt which seams equal to or greater than the original post hanging off the pedal arms itself (materials being equivalent strength). However, because you are going closer to the actual pivot point of the pedal (height wise) you are reduce the linear length or throw of what you have on that push rod (cylinder). Assuming you are getting enough throw in that regard I would think you are good to go. I'd throw some grease or something on those threads too, in case they are wanting to bite on the ID of your sleeve (bushing), but I'm Type-A and that's probably not necessary, lol. Great video, I love checking you posts!

    5. #45
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Chadman27! I was also concerned about the threads on the bolt going through the pedal biting into the sleeve so I used another bolt that had a smooth shaft with the threads at the end of it

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Well I had to make an updated Pushrod. The first pushrod was made out of aluminum and that could possibly bend under the force of the brake pedal. Here is an updated video showing the new pushrod (and the new steel sleeve I made )

      The new pushrod is all hardened steel. The CNC Master cylinder just has a tube that the pushrod slips into. Pushrod goes into the hole about 1.5 inches and bottoms out. Once the other end is connected to the brake pedal there is no way it can slip out. Check out the new video. New Bolt holding pushrod to pedal is 3/4 inch, that won't break


    7. #47
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      New Steering shaft dust boot and brake lines installed

      DUST BOOT VIDEO




      BRAKE LINE VIDEO


    8. #48
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      Grayslake IL
      Posts
      312
      Country Flag: United States

      1970 Trans Am Project

      Wow way cool car and build! I'll always have a soft spot for 70-73 T/A's. One of the best looking cars to come out of GM! Keep up the great work, i'll be following the build!
      I always tell others to take the high road, that way there's more room for me on the low road

      Erik Peterson
      1986 Monte Carlo SS Build Thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...6-Nascarlo-2-0

    9. #49
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Thank you EPeterson! I'm down to the final steps should be ready in a month or so. Engine builder called last week and said he has started assembly.

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Well I finished bleeding the master cylinders and connected the front brake lines today. Detailed video below. I also included a video of the K-Tool Brake Line Flaring tool. If you have ever used the old school brake flaring tools you know how much of a pain in the ass they are. Well this K-Tool flaring tool is absolutely amazing. Does a perfect flare every time, no trouble at all. Expensive at around 200 bucks but well worth it if you have to flare several fittings.



      Brake Line Video



      K-Tool Video


    11. #51
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Guys I need a Front Passenger fender from a 1970-72 Trans Am. That is the only piece on my car that is not the original sheet metal. It has a later model fender. The fender works and fits fine but as most of you know the 70-72 didn't have the mounting holes for the engine compartment brace. Anyway, I would like to find one so I can have all the original sheet metal. These are hard to find. Can anyone point me in the right direct? Wrecking yards? Hoarders? Collectors?

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      2,391
      Country Flag: United States
      You might have better luck finding an early 2nd gen base model fender (even if the lower sections are rotted) and then swapping the upper section of the inner structure over to your current outer fender.

    13. #53
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks, I'll keep that in mind as a last resort but I'm not giving up yet ;)

    14. #54
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Guys there is a great new book that was just released. It covers the SCCA Trans Am racing series from 1966-1972. It is awesome. Even covers the engines and engineering aspects, the crews, drivers, the cars, its a great book. Buy it!

      I was recently reading the section about the 1970 Jerry Titus Trans Am. Turns out the car has been restored to race day specs and exists in California at Canepa auto museum. Check out these detailed pictures, the car is amazing.... Once on the Canepa website scroll down below the pictures of the car to see the written summary about the cars history.

      http://www.canepa.com/inventory/race...ebird_titus_8/


      Here is the link for the book that goes into detail about all the 1966-1972 Trans Am Cars.

      http://www.amazon.com/The-Cars-Trans...rs+of+trans+am

    15. #55
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by NOT A TA View Post
      You might have better luck finding an early 2nd gen base model fender (even if the lower sections are rotted) and then swapping the upper section of the inner structure over to your current outer fender.
      I found some original 1970 Trans Am Fenders .... I bought them both even though all I need is the passenger side. Older Pontiac gear head on the other side of town had them. The drivers side was perfect, the passenger side had 2 spots where rust had started coming through the original paint. I am sure it is repairable though. Regardless, these may be the last 2 around. They are extremely difficult to find. Next to impossible.

    16. #56
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Today I picked up my engine from the shop. It's a pretty nasty 400 (406). It's a 10:1 compression engine so it was made to run on pump gas but it was built to lean toward a road race application. The power band was moved up in the RPM range so it would have better corner exit without breaking loose the rear end. She's making around 500 to 525 horsepower and torque. The pins and rods are a little tougher so it can handle spinning up to around 6500 to 6800 rpm.

      She has the Edelbrock aluminum d port heads that were ported to flow around 310 cfm. The torker II intake was port matched to the heads. Forged pistons and forged 6.8 rods. Solid roller and steel rockers. Carburetor is AED 950 HO. the distributor and headers are not in the video we just used what was on the engine stand. I have a set of the hooker super competition headers that I sent to thermal tech to have Coated. MSD billet distributor is still in the box. I'll post the complete build sheet later on.


      Enjoy the video


    17. #57
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      New Engine went into the car today



      Name:  12555982025_55a615ea8a_c.jpg
Views: 1347
Size:  223.4 KB

      Name:  12555977965_18b929bdc3_c.jpg
Views: 1309
Size:  179.6 KB

      Name:  12556025965_e603852f8c_c.jpg
Views: 1339
Size:  194.6 KB

    18. #58
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Waterloo, Ia
      Posts
      1,408
      BADASSERY! I love seeing real Pontiac power! You gotta post a vid when its all hooked up, exhaust hung and running. What are the cam specs on the engine build?
      -Nick
      -1967 GTO I drive and race
      -Build threads:
      -http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615847&page=23
      -https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...project-thread


    19. #59
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The Netherlands
      Posts
      1,509
      Country Flag: Netherlands
      Nice car, I like watching the vids! (I noticed the brake pedal rod bolt chafing the steering column wires, or it least looked like it did?) All the mods you show reminds me of my own build.....nothing ever fits as intended once you start altering stuff
      1st 2nd
      Pro-Touring outside the USA !
      Martin's Camaro Page

    20. #60
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok guys I need some. I am trying to wire the new starter to the original harness. Please watch the video and chime in if you know what I need to do.


    Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast



    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com