Line flaring fabrication question

[dipren443]

Good afternoon gents.

Going to make this a poll. Going to be flaring a few more stainless lines and would like to see what everyone prefers for cutting the tubing.



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[lbluecamaro69]

Pipe cutter is what I always use

[parsonsj]

I avoid stainless steel. It work hardens too quickly and tends to leak because of how difficult it is to work and flare. I like the new copper/nickel alloys. Doesn't rust, flares easily, and looks great.

But if you're bent on stainless steel (pun intended, lol), then cut it with a band saw or a hacksaw (none of the above) to avoid work hardening the end where you'll be flaring.

[astroracer]

Ditto on the Nickel/copper alloy! Never go back to stainless!
Mark

[blacklab]

Can you flare nickel/cooper 37 degree ?

Thanks

[parsonsj]

Can you flare nickel/cooper 37 degree ?

Absolutely. From http://www.fedhillusa.com:

If you are fitting aftermarket/high performance parts you may run into 37 degree flares. The 37 degree flare was standardized as A.N. (Army/Navy) during WWII for aircraft use. AN/37 degree nuts and fittings accept single and double flares. It is acceptable practice to single flare Cunifer™ (seamless) brake line for use with AN/37 degree fittings.

[dipren443]

John/Mark,

I will pose the same question in regards to the CuNi tubing. Do you have a preference for what you use to cut it?

Is it a moot point since the CuNi does not work harden as easily as stainless?

Nick

[parsonsj]

Nick, exactly right. I use a tubing cutter, then dress the inside of the tube with a chamfer cutter in a hand drill, and the outside edges with a small file.

[renegade6]

I used a dremel cut off disk on a low speed to keep from work hardening stainless. No issues with leaks.

[dipren443]

Thanks for all of the responses. This isn't my first rodeo, but when I called Classic Tube to verify the stainless tubing I already had in my garage was annealed, the rep from Classic Tube went out of his way to tell me to use an abrasive cut off wheel instead of a tubing cutter. I have used both to varying degrees of success along with my Mastercool/Blue Point flaring tool to make double flares.

This time around though, I am doing single flares for some AN fittings and will be using a Ridgid flaring tool. I thought it might fight me a bit more than using the hydraulic Mastercool and wanted to get everyones opinion.

Thanks again!

[MonzaRacer]

OK after using my Mastercool/Blue Point hyd. flaring tool. I used to have a rat tail file I reamed the inside after cutting. Then take same file and dress the outer edge all around as I roll the tubing in my fingers.
I now have a reaming tool thats from SUR&R bought through Cornwell. This here http://www.surrauto.com/documents/RM69.pdf.
I also figured out that if you "sight" the line down from even with holding dies, basically I like my line even with inside of the angle/bevel on inside of the holding dies, I get MUCH better flare.
When I first got the unit I would snap pin off of the inverted flaring die. I started pulling line back down into the holding die, IE less stick out. I beveled in side of tubing, and file beveled the outside, TADA not broke pin since oh and also found out if inverted flare first push bie has broken pin you CAN use the 4mm ISO"bubble" flare then finish with cone.
Thinking of doing a small video on using the tool as I have had mine since 09 and done hundreds of brake line flares.
Only difference on 37 degree is different dies, got those too!
Also on stainless on cone push dont seat it fully, practice and marking the cone die, at full "hard" seating. Reason is stainless really needs the extra spring on its inverted flare to seal more reliably.
I tried it with cute off wheels and the leave it ragged, hacksaw same way.
I deal is mini tubing cutter with NEW blade, make contact, turn once or twice to start the cut, then 1/4 to 1/2 turn tighter for every movement around tubing. Each batch cuts slightly different. Most steel or stainless should cut in 3 to 4 turns of tool at most.
Leaving the second flare not fully seated (I marked my die then leave it about 1/16th or so from hard seat) never had a stainless one leak.
I have access to SUR&R through my Mighty dealer, been thinking of getting couple of roles of the brake line and some of the tube nuts.
Might see what I can do for a group type buy or something.
I'll see about making a guide video for the way I flare and how I get consistent results.
Lee Abel

[snakedr]

Tubing cutter is only correct way. In 30 + yrs never had a problem using one for Stainless, Aluminum, or Titanium. I have cut and repaired a lot of CRES and Titanium tubing on large commercial aircraft. With that out of the way and the ability to pull over it is probably not that big a deal to use a cutoff wheel. Also the lower pressures would mean you have more margins of strength.