50 Willys PU Street fighter

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

watchin this..

[GT500KR_Vert]

that top needs to be chopped - would look awesome - would be cool to take 4" out of the cab - right around the middle of the lower door area

[shizzy]

I do want to chop the top, 4" is probably going to be the amount.

[carguykeith]

S-10 front suspension is the same as a g-body so you have a lot of options there. For the $ I don't think you can beat my setup, speedway UCAs ($50 ea), powerperformance tall Upper & loser BJs ($100), moog IROC springs ($50) and some adjustable shocks ($150). You already have drop spindles and you can trim the spring for ride height if needed.

Cheap C5 13" front disks are easy too by cutting your spindle ears and turning down your existing rotors to use as hubs.

[68400BIRD]

I have some pulleys and I think a power steering pump for a sbc if interested. (free)

[CruizinKev]

cool!! I love this project! can't wait to see more!!

[novaboy009]

What steering wheel is that? I dig it.

[Buryingthesun]

I can only imagine awesome things to come

[shizzy]

What steering wheel is that? I dig it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/joe-13515-b/overview/

[shizzy]

sold off the 305 and everything that went with it, picked up a 5.3. It's a higher milage unit (200K), but it was complete with harness and computer for a good price.



the Dirty Dingo mounts should show up tomorrow and then I'll see where things look.

[shizzy]

S-10 front suspension is the same as a g-body so you have a lot of options there. For the $ I don't think you can beat my setup, speedway UCAs ($50 ea), powerperformance tall Upper & loser BJs ($100), moog IROC springs ($50) and some adjustable shocks ($150). You already have drop spindles and you can trim the spring for ride height if needed.

Cheap C5 13" front disks are easy too by cutting your spindle ears and turning down your existing rotors to use as hubs.

How many miles do you have on the Speedway control arms? I've heard good and bad about running them on the street.

[carguykeith]

How many miles do you have on the Speedway control arms? I've heard good and bad about running them on the street.

Not many unfortunately, I finished the car (It's of course never "finished" but got it running and enough of the bugs worked out to drive it around) then shortly afterwards took a job in Okinawa Japan… So I'd say maybe a 1000 miles but doubt even that many. I'm a mechanical engineer and in my opinion the arms are plenty strong enough, their chromoly tubing with steel crossshafts and greased joints. Remember these are made for circle track racing and there aren't many things harder on front suspension components than that.

[dangina]

I like where this is going

[shizzy]

Well, USPS sucks, took a week to get my Dirty dingo adapter plates in. without swinging the engine in place, I'm thinking the Power steering is going to give me issues. It looks like it will be sitting right on top of the upper control arm. I'll know for sure tomorrow. Since I don't want to raise the engine any higher and i'm on a budget, I may go with this.

http://goatbuilt.com/gm-ls-power-steering-brackets/

Cheap and raises the pump 4.2"

[injcted]

Very cool project! Looking for to much more updates

[shizzy]

Finally got the Dirty dingo plates. It was going to be a warm day (27 degrees, woo hoo!) so I took the day off from work.



Since I had no idea how this was going to fit in the chassis I decided to just lift the cab up and back. At this point I had that "two steps forward, one step back" kind of feeling.



I ended up moving the engine up two inches from where I had the SBC before In order to clear the power steering pulley. I just chopped some tubing at 2" and ran some longer bolts through. I'll have to redo the mounts, but this got me bolted in.




As it sits, the PS pump pulley just clears the crossmember. I'll chop a chunk out and weld in a flat plate.



Snug, but the pump and lines clear.



Here it is sitting between the frame rails. I may have some slight hood clearance issues with the truck intake, but we will have to see.

[jwatts]

Just a heads up on the power steering pulley before you start cutting the crossmember. I had similar issues on the LS swap in my Chevelle. I used a power steering pulley for a Ford E-150 van with a 300 straight six. It is Dorman part number 300-020. This will cause an issue with the belt being too short. I found that a belt for a Jeep Cherokee 2.5L 4cyl with A/C (Gates P/N- K060910) fit just fine.

[shizzy]

thanks for the tip, though it's not worth the extra $60 to me. All I need is a little extra distance to slip the belt on or off.

[jwatts]

No problem. My clearance issue was with the steering box itself, so I didn't have much of a choice but to change the pulley.

[shizzy]

Looks like I'm going to have to move the engine forward about two inches. The exhaust manifolds are too far in to the firewall / toe board area for my liking.



Also, in this pic, the cab is still needs to come down about 4" on one side before it sits down on the body mounts and it's quite close to the MAP sensor. I'd like to retain the cowl vent, so moving things forward will help.



2" will make all the difference.

I'll probably be picking up Welder series mounts (LS200), but for now, I'll cobble something together to move the engine to check fit.

http://www.welderseries.com/blog/onl...-motor-mounts/