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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States

      Power window controllers

      Hi guys,

      I've got a customer car with 4 power windows with just the power leads coming to the center console (reverse polarity motors). I'd like to wire the window switches through relays and I don't really need one-touch (though it would be nice). That's 8 relays...

      I'm wondering if anybody knows of a solid/state 8 relay module that would be suitable for this? The other problem is that I'd like to have some kind of programmable stop for the down position. The factory stops are too low, and the travel mechanism makes a "popping" noise down there that I find annoying.

      thanks!
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      3,056
      Country Flag: United States
      Move the stops, there is no sane way to do what you are proposing.

      What are the window switches and why do they need relays?
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      The switches need relays to reverse the polarity. Perhaps I'm spoiled by using a lot of InfinityBox gear, but I really don't like to run more than an amp or two through a switch. And when you only run ground circuits on the 85/86 side of a relay, you can use any switch you want. No need for a 15A rated switch...

      As far as the stops go, it's the back windows in a 69 Camaro. There's no good / easy way of doing that. You're pretty much limited to the base window regulator geometry... unless I'm missing something.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Atlanta, GA
      Posts
      128
      Here you go- a good - easy -clean way. No micro/mini/limit switches needed.

      This piece has 8 inputs- and 4 programmable outputs. Designed to handle linear actuators- so you can completely control the rear motors.

      PAC TR12

      I'd mount it at the switches-less than a couple hundred mA- then run a couple trigger wires and power to each window- put a couple Bosch relays at each window-done!

      Uses a USB to program-

      Less than $40

      Richard

      https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item..._PAC-TR12.html



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    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Richard,

      I like it. I'll put the relays under the dash, treat the rear windows as a linear actuator, and put a timer on down. Thanks very much!

      I can even make the windows one-touch where you "tap" the switch to start them, then tap again to stop.

      Very cool.

      Now then: anybody know of a cool packaging setup for 8 relays? I've used this and this in the past, but I was hoping for something with solid state relays and a single input/output harness. I know I've seen something like that, but I can't remember where I saw it.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      3,056
      Country Flag: United States
      Oh, so you have the wrong switches.

      The ISO 280 micro relays and the individual bases that snap together take up the least amount of space if you don't find the solid state set up you are looking for.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Donny
      Oh, so you have the wrong switches.
      I don't have any switches, lol!! Just the power connections to the motors. Which work fine when tested with my Ridgid 12v cordless drill battery.

      I really like using the ISO 280 micro relays. I did find this (overkill, but whatever):

      https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4605...1S-000-0-ssVEC

      8 micro relays, fuses, etc. It's packaging is decent and clean. Asking customer if he wants to pay for it now...
      Last edited by parsonsj; 09-28-2018 at 06:28 AM.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Atlanta, GA
      Posts
      128
      I've become a fan of these- might not be the ticket for your project- but excellent for configuring some extra circuits.

      https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co....01/category/63


      Then the LED indicator fuses- and you are good to go.

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    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,666
      Country Flag: United States
      John, which power window system does the customers car have in it now?
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LT4 (coming)/T56 DSE suspension

      1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S convertible (442 Clone)
      LS3/4L70e, DSE suspension


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Chris
      John, which power window system does the customers car have in it now?
      Back windows are Nu-Relics. Not sure about front. They all work fine when directly manipulated.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      muggy midwest
      Posts
      533
      Country Flag: United States
      I can supply you with auto down and up using those reverse polarity motors. I do stock the 280 series relay too.
      "...if at first you don't succeed, try again.
      If you still don't succeed, then quit-no sense being a damn fool about it..."
      -W.C. Fields

      HARNESSWORX
      (formerly gmachinz)

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      muggy midwest
      Posts
      533
      Country Flag: United States
      Name:  E99A5327-443D-41B6-BA36-A70C429AE8CB.jpg
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      Something like this splice kit-only with smaller relays/bases. This is a direct splice auto down/up relay kit for 2 windows.
      "...if at first you don't succeed, try again.
      If you still don't succeed, then quit-no sense being a damn fool about it..."
      -W.C. Fields

      HARNESSWORX
      (formerly gmachinz)

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      274
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj View Post
      Richard,

      I like it. I'll put the relays under the dash, treat the rear windows as a linear actuator, and put a timer on down. Thanks very much!

      I can even make the windows one-touch where you "tap" the switch to start them, then tap again to stop.

      Very cool.

      Now then: anybody know of a cool packaging setup for 8 relays? I've used this and this in the past, but I was hoping for something with solid state relays and a single input/output harness. I know I've seen something like that, but I can't remember where I saw it.
      John:

      This is another option from Eaton that houses 5 280 micro relays and 10 mini fuses. It has a water-proof cover with a tether.

      https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4634...TMR-Mini-Fuse/

      Rodney
      Rodney Meyers
      72 Olds 442 Rest-mod clone

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Nashville/ Tampa
      Posts
      730
      Country Flag: United States
      I had one of these for windows, might work here https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BX-10
      https://www.instagram.com/gen_v_lt1_chevelle/


      Do not buy anything from Frankie's Used Auto Parts. Ever.
      Chevelle ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ L92/200-4r now Gen V LT1 and T56- https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nvertible.html

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Gainesville, GA
      Posts
      202
      Country Flag: United States
      A pair of Directed Electronics 535T window modules will do everything your looking for and more. PM me if you need more details.
      Eric Evans

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Harriman, Tennessee
      Posts
      1,310
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj View Post
      As far as the stops go, it's the back windows in a 69 Camaro. There's no good / easy way of doing that. You're pretty much limited to the base window regulator geometry... unless I'm missing something.
      You're missing something. There should be a positive stop for the bottom of the window travel.
      "You can never go home again, Oatman...


      But I guess you can shop there."

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bill
      You're missing something. There should be a positive stop for the bottom of the window travel.
      The factory positive stop leaves the window an inch too low, so that the window can get stuck in the felt or the outside wipe. Bending or altering that stop will work for a while, but power windows will eventually push down that sheet metal stop if the driver just holds the down button to when the window mechanically stops.



      InfinityBox's inMOTION does a nice job of using current use as a guide for when to stop the windows, and I've had good look with that. But I don't have an InfinityBox setup on this car, so I was looking for something like that.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Chuck: that Ron Francis kit was the one I was thinking of. I see it's now on indefinite backorder! Bummer.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro


    18. #18
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      3,056
      Country Flag: United States
      It's on backorder because it doesn't work.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Donny
      It's on backorder because it doesn't work.
      Oh. Well then... glad I don't have one.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      muggy midwest
      Posts
      533
      Country Flag: United States
      I use solid state modules-the IC uses resistance (ie window suddenly slowing down or stopping while travelling) to sense when to close. It won’t matter where your stops are-you can move them to wear you’d like and the modules win’t allow the window to “try” and move any further down from that point.
      "...if at first you don't succeed, try again.
      If you still don't succeed, then quit-no sense being a damn fool about it..."
      -W.C. Fields

      HARNESSWORX
      (formerly gmachinz)

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