Thread: Automotive photography rigs

Anyone using an automotiverigs setup for action shots? What size tubing is their kit? Wonder if smaller diameter tubing for lower cars would work, or make the system too flimsy.

Rigs are perhaps the most closely guarded secret in Automotive photography. Wish I could help you, but you have a better chance of finding the U.S.S Indianapolis in your swimming pool.

Here.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...d.php?t=490505

I've seen that thread before when I did a search on this a few months ago. Some great information in there but it all pertains to "suction cup" style rigs. Very little if any info is given on magnets which is what you really need for shooting high end Pro-Touring cars. Not a lot of guys will let you put suction cups on their $18K paint jobs.

I've heard rumor that their rig is 2" but have never seen it in person. If you look in AR's products section you can see a setup they have for attaching to the pinch weld. A similar setup could be made very easily. You may get by with a little smaller, but I wouldn't be nearly as comfortable with it. That 2-3 seconds would feel like an eternity.

I plan on building one this fall to do both under and over car mount. Obviously the over car mount will be cup based.

I've done this before (for a different application), but I used the magnets out an old pair of blown JBL speakers i had. I actually covered them with old 6" cotton buffer pads/socks (you know, the ones with the pull strings for tightening them around the buffer face). It totally worked for holding a large plastic banner in place on the top of a car (vertically) while driving around (including highway speeds). I'm fairly confident you could rig something similar up to a camera mount.

Originally Posted by trapin

I've seen that thread before when I did a search on this a few months ago. Some great information in there but it all pertains to "suction cup" style rigs. Very little if any info is given on magnets which is what you really need for shooting high end Pro-Touring cars. Not a lot of guys will let you put suction cups on their $18K paint jobs.

I've done it on much more expensive paint jobs. It's all in how you present it to the client.

Only leaves small rings that wiped away easily with a micro-fiber cloth.

Originally Posted by maxharvard

I've done it on much more expensive paint jobs. It's all in how you present it to the client.

Only leaves small rings that wiped away easily with a micro-fiber cloth.

Especially when you tell them they'll be sticking on a chase vehicle.

Just being a smart a$$. These are some great photos! Any on vehicle shots?

Originally Posted by pokey64

Any on vehicle shots?

Those are on vehicle shots. The rig is removed in post processing.

Max, would you mind sharing what you're using for a rig? Is there anything you would change?

Originally Posted by Rhino

Those are on vehicle shots. The rig is removed in post processing.

Wow, I should of read the link above before posting.

Originally Posted by Rhino

Max, would you mind sharing what you're using for a rig? Is there anything you would change?

Would love to see more details!

Here is a place that sells rigs for automotive photography.



http://www.automotiverigs.com/

Works with magnets and you place them on the underside of the car. This makes the photo retouching a lot easier.

Jan

Originally Posted by jannes_z-28

Here is a place that sells rigs for automotive photography.

http://www.automotiverigs.com/

Works with magnets and you place them on the underside of the car. This makes the photo retouching a lot easier.

Jan

I debated this setup, but realized that the suction cup method provided a lot more versatility.

To answer a few questions...

I'm using some suction cups from filmtools.com (the big guys rated at 100lbs) and a 15' pole cut into 3 sections. I use a suspension type setup to prevent sagging in the pole.

Over the winter I thinking of machining a set of thicker (1.75" to 2") poles that are threaded rather than pressure fit, complete with the same suspension type cable setup.

Answer your questions?

~Eric

Yes, it does. Thanks. I'm about ready to build my setup and wasn't sure what to use for the boom. I'll likely end up going with 2" .120 wall aluminum with couplers (Similar to the autorigs setup)

I'm trying to get away without using the suspension rig if at all possible.

The magnetic base works well. It was attached to the gas tank here.

Here are 2 before and after photoshop pics of our Chevelle when it was shot for a major magazine:





These were taken just after sunset and we pushed the car about 2 MPH.

Originally Posted by maxharvard

I debated this setup, but realized that the suction cup method provided a lot more versatility.

To answer a few questions...

I'm using some suction cups from filmtools.com (the big guys rated at 100lbs) and a 15' pole cut into 3 sections. I use a suspension type setup to prevent sagging in the pole.

Over the winter I thinking of machining a set of thicker (1.75" to 2") poles that are threaded rather than pressure fit, complete with the same suspension type cable setup.

Answer your questions?

~Eric

Going to have to disagree with you Eric. The Suction cups do limit you. Look at the two pics you posted, they are from a low angle roughly the same angle. With the automotive rigs, you can get much higher if need be. I've been using it, have had to modify it. The rig was originally designed for flat bottomed modern cars, not muscle cars, or framed cars. It does work well though. I have also had talks with some well known automotive photographers who have used the suction cups, and one told me a story how it pulled the paint off the car. The magnets are less obtrusive and having the rig under the car is much easier to retouch. trying to retouch the car is very difficult and time consuming.

Originally Posted by cmraman

Going to have to disagree with you Eric. The Suction cups do limit you. Look at the two pics you posted, they are from a low angle roughly the same angle. With the automotive rigs, you can get much higher if need be. I've been using it, have had to modify it. The rig was originally designed for flat bottomed modern cars, not muscle cars, or framed cars. It does work well though. I have also had talks with some well known automotive photographers who have used the suction cups, and one told me a story how it pulled the paint off the car. The magnets are less obtrusive and having the rig under the car is much easier to retouch. trying to retouch the car is very difficult and time consuming.

I'll admit that the PP at the end is much easier, I still have to contend that the suction cup end is much more versatile.

The photos I posted were low, that's true. They were just good examples at the time.

Here's one where I had to stand on a 8' ladder to compose the shot. the automotiverigs.com version can't go this high. I can also mount it straight up if I wanted. Whereas the under car version can't.

I would argue that while it is more time consuming, 20 minutes is about the worst I've had to do thus far per rig photo. So, it's not that much of a time concern for one shot out of the rest.

I have yet to experience any of the negatives of using it.

It's nice to see a pro's before shot with a bunch of noise and dust on the sensor. It doesn't make me feel so bad now.

As far as the Magnet vs cup debate, I think it all comes down to personal preference. If the cups are done properly, I think you can minimize the opportunity for damage. Just as anything, it's a calculated risk. Using a few stand offs, it would be pretty simple to get a higher shot.
Don, I would imagine you could duplicate that shot with one cup on the back of the roof, the other on your rear glass. Given the camera and light placement I think that shot would be just as easy to process. Over all I think you're correct that the cups would require more PP/clone work.

Thanks for everyone's input and pics. I've helped Robert Mcgaffin on a couple photo shoots and seen the Automotiverigs setup in action. I'd like to use their system but I've emailed them 5 times in 2 weeks with no response. Makes me not want to give them $800. They must not want to sell their rigs to badly. I guess if I don't hear from them in the next few days then I'll make my own. Thanks again for all the input and pics.

PS. if anyone has a phone # for automotoiverigs please let me know. Kind of weird they don't have a # listed on their website, only and email....THAT THEY DON'T ANSWER.

ZZ430... are you using an automotive rigs setup or a home made one?

Originally Posted by maxharvard

I'll admit that the PP at the end is much easier, I still have to contend that the suction cup end is much more versatile.

The photos I posted were low, that's true. They were just good examples at the time.

Here's one where I had to stand on a 8' ladder to compose the shot. the automotiverigs.com version can't go this high. I can also mount it straight up if I wanted. Whereas the under car version can't.

I would argue that while it is more time consuming, 20 minutes is about the worst I've had to do thus far per rig photo. So, it's not that much of a time concern for one shot out of the rest.

I have yet to experience any of the negatives of using it.

I don't think from this example that I have any problems achieving the same perspective. I have had no problems getting an exaggerated high angle from mounting it from underneath.