Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 8 of 8

    Thread: Brake lines

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Posts
      181

      Brake lines

      Im getting ready to start runnin my brake lines and just curious what you guys are going with? Are you buying the pre-bent kits or making your own. Is it worth spending the money and going with stainless? Thanks



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      I made my own, but used regular steel lines.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      I made my own stainless, but probably would not do it again.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Posts
      1,607
      Country Flag: United States
      ^ Why not WM?
      Ron in SoCal
      69 Camaro in progress
      http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=31246

      Used to be known as flash911

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2003
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      8,745
      We have a non corrosive easy bend material that flares easy (MUCH easier then stainless). Makes tight bends with bending pliers we provide and is bendable with your thumbs without kinking for most bends.

      Enough line to do the emtire car, tube nuts and bending pliers is only $175 for the entire kit

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by Ron.in.SoCal View Post
      ^ Why not WM?
      For some of the reasons Frank mentioned. Stainless is hard to bend well, hard to flare well, requires extra attention in making sure things don't leak, work hardens, is expensive - and happens to look real nice. I have all the right tools - except skill and patience. It's just a PITA. I'm glad mine is done but honestly there are a couple things I'd like to do but since it would mean touching my brake lines I'm staying away.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      2,391
      Country Flag: United States
      I make my own. I use regular steel that comes coiled for most of the vehicles I work on, and the stainless on show cars. Recently got a new Eastwood flaring tool thats awesome if you do a lot of tubing work in various sizes. It's much quicker than a standard double flairing tool and doesn't make a clamp mark on the tubing like the basic tools do. New tool is in the vice and the standard tool in the red box in the background in the pic below. A tubing cutter and deburring tool will also speed up the operations but you can do the work with hacksaw and files. Brake lines are very easy to form by hand. There are tools to help curve the tubing but you don't really need one for brake lines.




    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Durham,NC
      Posts
      664
      Country Flag: United States
      No picture to share with us on the kit Frank? Brandon




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com