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    Results 1 to 19 of 19
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Posts
      33
      Country Flag: United States

      cutting hotchkis springs

      Does anyone recommend cutting their hotchkis springs to get the ride height they desire. i have a 1972 Camaro with the Hotchkis TVS kit but still would like to drop the front at least 1". I have thought about running drop spindles but they are all a 2" drop, which i think will be too much,plus i would rather put that money toward other upgrades. So i am entertaining the idea of cutting a half coil off instead. The springs have been on for a year now so i don't think they are going to settle much more.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      If one of your upgrades includes tubular control arms, you might want to check with some manufacturers first. I know for example on DSE 1st GENs they drop the pocket a little lower than stock which in effect lowers the car, and at the same time allows you to keep the same spring travel and rate.
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      609
      Country Flag: United States
      Definitely call Hotchkis. DO NOT CUT a half coil off it will drop the car too low. There is a formula that they have for doing this. This is what they told me because I am doing the same thing.

      You are measuring total spring height. Stand the spring on end and measure the height. Whatever is cut off the spring is doubled in ride height. To drop the car 1 inch cut ½ inch out of total height of spring. Cut the spring on the bottom end not the top. For example if you cut 1 inch you lower the car 2 inches.

      Hope this helps.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
      Posts
      676
      What kochevy said^

      This is due to the motion ratio of your front arms. Also keep in mind that removing coils will stiffen the spring so your ride may change slightly.

      -matt

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Posts
      33
      Country Flag: United States
      You are right KoChevy67.... i called Hotchkis and they told me exactly what you said. Thanks for the correct advice! Now where is my cutting torch(just kidding haha!)

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Santa Fe Springs, CA
      Posts
      625
      This just goes to show how helpful all the members are here on Pro-Touring.com.

      FastRun72,

      Thanks for calling us to confirm the information. We’re glad you’re doing your homework, rather than cutting first and asking questions later. Do you have any pictures of your current ride height?
      Hotchkis Sport Suspension
      Toll Free: 877-466-7655

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      N.Nevada
      Posts
      59
      can you use anything besides a torch to cut the springs ? or are they just too hard and a torch in mandatory ?
      462 Doug Nash 5 Speed Centerforce Clutch Quicktime Bellhousing Edelbrock Heads Solid Roller Holley HP Victor Intake Pump Gas 66 12 Bolt Poly Bushings Hotchkis Springs Metco Control Arms Big bar front Stock rear bar INTRO 20's & 19"s

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      1,180
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by NASH JUDGE View Post
      can you use anything besides a torch to cut the springs ? or are they just too hard and a torch in mandatory ?
      If you are going to cut the coil springs, then I think the the best option is to use a cut off wheel. The torch will heat the springs and may cause them to weaken and distort under load.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2000
      Posts
      4,151
      Country Flag: United States
      You can use a cut off wheel, or a angle grinder with a cut wheel. They're not hard to cut.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Washington, MO
      Posts
      2,363
      When you guys cut springs.. aren't you concerned about not having a flat contact area like a factory spring does?

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Piqua, Oh
      Posts
      397
      Country Flag: United States
      That is why you cut the bottom of the coil.

      And I am pretty sure he was just kidding about using a torch.
      Mike South
      1968 Camaro SS/RS LS1/T56
      Ride Tech Tru Turn, Ride Tech T/Q Coil-overs
      Ride Tech 4-link

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
      Posts
      1,731
      Country Flag: United States
      this is what im doing to my springs. Now i just need to sell my rear lowering leaf springs.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Southwest Florida
      Posts
      246
      Quote Originally Posted by BuzzKillian View Post
      That is why you cut the bottom of the coil.

      And I am pretty sure he was just kidding about using a torch.
      You'd be surprised, I've heard of and known a couple shops and diy'ers conduct this half-assed practice, mostly out of ignorance that the spring's heat treat is easily ruined when using a torch to "soften" or cut a coil. So yes, use a cutoff wheel or even a sawzall if you have to(I highly recommend the cutting wheel or similar tool, the sawzall, even with a decent metal blade is probably gonna be difficult/awkward with a round spring with hardened steel), keep the torch away from em.


      -- Dan

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Washington, MO
      Posts
      2,363
      Quote Originally Posted by BuzzKillian View Post
      That is why you cut the bottom of the coil.
      Even so.. only a few inches of the spring will be seated, right? Instead of having a good solid base? That part always bothered me.. not sure if its a legitimate concern or not though..

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Easton, PA
      Posts
      989
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Yoda4561 View Post
      You'd be surprised, I've heard of and known a couple shops and diy'ers conduct this half-assed practice, mostly out of ignorance that the spring's heat treat is easily ruined when using a torch to "soften" or cut a coil. So yes, use a cutoff wheel or even a sawzall if you have to(I highly recommend the cutting wheel or similar tool, the sawzall, even with a decent metal blade is probably gonna be difficult/awkward with a round spring with hardened steel), keep the torch away from em.
      I've heard of guys who would place bricks under the frame and heat the springs until the car came down onto the bricks! real trailer park engineering there...

      anyway, a cutoff wheel seems to be the preferred method, but I'm sure a good corded sawzall w/ a new milwalkee blade could do it as well.
      Keith C.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      66
      I have a 72 camaro that I cut my Hotchkis springs 1/2". It lowered my car another 1" and I couldn't tell any difference in the ride! I used a cut off wheel and cut the bottom of the coil.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      When i bought my 69 in 1997 the previous owner told me that is how he lowered the front AND rear!! Simply a new set of springs and shocks and difference was night and day. I couldn't believe as he was telling me that he would lower a car using a torch. "that's how we always built hot rods back in the day".
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Piqua, Oh
      Posts
      397
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Tony_SS View Post
      Even so.. only a few inches of the spring will be seated, right? Instead of having a good solid base? That part always bothered me.. not sure if its a legitimate concern or not though..
      I'm not gpoing to say every car is like this, but on my car... The top of the coil is fairly flat, the LCA has a contoured pocket to compensate for the spiral of the spring. So, if you cut the spring... you just rotate it to match your LCA.
      Mike South
      1968 Camaro SS/RS LS1/T56
      Ride Tech Tru Turn, Ride Tech T/Q Coil-overs
      Ride Tech 4-link

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
      Posts
      676
      You still get a good solid base when the weight is put back on the spring. The loose end can safely be heated and formed to fit the lower spring bucket better, but running a cut spring is fine because the car's weight forms the cut end to the spring bucket. Rest assured that if Hotchkis is giving pointers on how to do it, it's a widely-accepted practice.

      -matt




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