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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Australia
      Posts
      21

      Check Brake set up before ordering.

      Have been reading plenty of previous posts on master cyl sizes etc, you have some great info here.

      Brakes will be front 13" 6 piston wilwood, rear 12.19" and 4 piston. Pretty normal for around here, but the rest is a little differtent, this is for a 69 being converted to Right Hand Drive. (no power assist)


      For a RHD set up the master cylinders end up closer to the centre of the firewall than a LHD, so will be using this reverse pedal assembly (6.25:1 ratio) with compact master cyls and send the remote reservoirs back out in the engine bay.







      The compact remote master cyls are in these sizes

      Remote Master Cylinder - .625" Bore

      Remote Master Cylinder - .700" Bore

      Remote Master Cylinder - .750" Bore



      Have been reading the clutch sizes to suit a TKO Hydraulic throw out assy. .625 or a .700 seems to be OK. thanks andrewb70

      For a tandem master most seem to be using a 7/8" (Frank & others)

      For a twin master set up it seems to be 3/4" for the fronts and 13/16" for the rear (Matt from Morrisons as an example).

      My question is can I use a .750 for both front and rear ? Instead of using a slightly larger master to have less pressure to the rear, would I be able to get this set up OK by the adjustment in the balance bar ?

      I could move over to these bigger remote masters to get some better sizes if I have to, but they look about 2" longer than the compact units.





      What do you guys think, will .750 for both be OK and reduce enough rear with the balance bar or maybe go .700 front and .750 rear ?


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      16,129
      Country Flag: United States
      You have a ton of variables going on here. What I would do is get the car on the road and work from there. Start by measuring the the brake pressure at the calipers once the car is done. MCs are inexpensive and easy to swap. You may have to experiment a little to get the optimum balance. Pad compound, weight distribution, tire compound, all play a role in balancing the brake system.

      For the clutch, don't take my word for it. All of the MC sizes listed above will work for certain clutch/TOB/pedal combinations. The style of clutch that you use, the TOB, pedal travel will all play a role in choosing the size of the MC. My setup originally came with a .750" bore MC. I felt that was too big because it gave me a very hard pedal and moved the TOB farther than needed. I later swapped to the .700" MC and that made it better. I think I can even go to a .625" MC and have an even softer pedal and still get enough travel at the TOB to release the clutch.

      Andrew
      Last edited by andrewb70; 12-05-2008 at 09:44 AM.
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
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    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Australia
      Posts
      21
      Thanks Andrew, yes it's a bit different, just trying to get close to a known/workable combo at first, then yes, may have to fine tune it later.

      Thinking more on it after I posted that, and then spending some time behind the firewall with a tape measure. It may be worth making the larger master cyls fit under the dash area instead of the compact units. That way I can start with some known combinations, and have a bit more choice in sizes if I have to fiddle around.


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