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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Oakland CA
      Posts
      256

      Multple forums same cry for help!

      So i got my car back yesterday and the front resivoir on the MC was dry. I saw a lot of fluid around the hard line going from the MC to the perprotioning valve. I have no expierence with hard lines and with brakes for that matter. I dont know what to do. The pedal is mushy but the brakes start working if you keep pushing. Anyone around the bay have some time to get paid to help fix my hardline and help me bleed the brakes so i can actually drive my car after 8 months?(ILL PAY YOU GREATLY FOR YOUR TIME!!!!)
      anytime or advice anyone can offer is appreciated...
      David

      :3gears: 68 Rally Sport Camaro 350/4spd(t56ingarage)/8.5 10bolt 2.56 open,Hotchkis springs, kyb shocks, 17" Rallys 235/245-45-17

      1989 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am 3.8 Buick LC2 V-6 w/51k, Ported heads w/oversized one piece valves, te-44 turbo,PTS built 200R4 w/2800stall, Lucas green top 009 42.5# injectors, AFPR, Adjustable wastegate, ATR 3inch exhaust, Terry houston 3inch mandrel bent downpipe, stock intercooler w/duttwieler neck, Eibach Springs, Bilstien shocks, Spohn adjustable panhard bar...


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Mesquite, TX
      Posts
      4,941
      Country Flag: United States
      Have you tried tightening the fittings?

      If you haven't, get a flare wrench and give it a try.. if you can correct the leak, you could get any untrained monkey to help bleed brakes.

      If you have tightened them and it didn't help, take the leaky line off and see if anything looks damaged on the mating surfaces.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Alta Loma,SoCal
      Posts
      396
      Quote Originally Posted by derekf
      Have you tried tightening the fittings?

      If you haven't, get a flare wrench and give it a try.. if you can correct the leak, you could get any untrained monkey to help bleed brakes.

      If you have tightened them and it didn't help, take the leaky line off and see if anything looks damaged on the mating surfaces.
      Agreed! Wives are good for this.
      1965 Buick Skylark

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2000
      Location
      San Diego, CA
      Posts
      339
      Country Flag: United States
      I don't know if any of your parts are new but one thing I have found over the years is this. Anytime I have had new flaired fitting, I have had a problem with them leaking the first time UNTIL I started doing this.

      Anytime you have new fittings, tighten them down, with the correct flair wrench, good and snug. Then loosen them about a half turn or so. Then tighten them down good and snug again. There, your done. For whatever reason, by loosening them and retightening the fittings, it allows them to reseat and make a good seal. Since I have do things this way, I have not had ANY leaks from any systems I have worked on or built.

      Worth a try. If you were near San Diego, I would be more then happy to help you with my power bleeder setup. Good luck.
      Mike Schwartz aka chevymike
      1955 Chevy 210 Wagon
      1965 Chevy C10 Panel Truck
      1972 Chevy El Camino

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Bedford TX
      Posts
      634
      Quote Originally Posted by TurboLark
      Agreed! Wives are good for this.

      I beg to differ!!! I tried having my wife at the time help bleed lines on a 280z I had Thinking any "monkey" can pump the brake pedal right???? I would tell her "ok" pump the brake! ---nothing--- That went on for a good 30 minutes!! SO finaly i get in the car pump the brakes run around and what do you know brake fluid on the caliper!! thinking ok I got it now!! "monkey" gets back in drivers seat and continues to pump pedal for 15 minutes!! NO AVAIL!!! Finaly I take the drop light over into the car and am looking to see if maybe the pedal had become dislodged or something!?!?! only to hear ohhhhh I forgot its a standard and the clutch pedal is on the left!!!!!!!!
      Justin, 68 Camaro Update:5 speed is in and neighbors are pissed!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Oakland CA
      Posts
      256
      Well i bought line wrenchs and the fittings where nice and snug. I Bled the brakes and got a hard nice pedal. But seeing as these brakes have gone out on me once before i gave out and brought it to midas and they can throw it on a lift and check all the hardlines. I just want to get out and drive!!!!
      Thanks for the responses guys!

      68Bnut- i feel you on that, ive had a few people who didnt know that one before!

      ChevyMike- They arnt new they are the same lines from when i bought the car 3 years ago. But when i do get the condifence to do hardlines your advice has been imprinted on my brain so ill try it next time. AND THANKS FOR THE OFFER! i wish i was in SD cause id love to have a gearhead help me! Maybe next time im down south.

      DerekF- What can i say, you da man!!! Every technical question ive had since the new sight came up you have had a quick knowledgable response in a matter of minutes. I speak for all of us when i say thanks for the time, effort, and support you put into this forum! Your time is always valued!

      David
      :3gears: 68 Rally Sport Camaro 350/4spd(t56ingarage)/8.5 10bolt 2.56 open,Hotchkis springs, kyb shocks, 17" Rallys 235/245-45-17

      1989 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am 3.8 Buick LC2 V-6 w/51k, Ported heads w/oversized one piece valves, te-44 turbo,PTS built 200R4 w/2800stall, Lucas green top 009 42.5# injectors, AFPR, Adjustable wastegate, ATR 3inch exhaust, Terry houston 3inch mandrel bent downpipe, stock intercooler w/duttwieler neck, Eibach Springs, Bilstien shocks, Spohn adjustable panhard bar...

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Oakland CA
      Posts
      256
      ok now they say my MC is bad where it connects to the booster. They want $400 for that and rear drum shoes. I could upgrade my brakes for a little more money then that! oh course they wouldnt fit in my 15inch rims, im stuck i dont know what to do!
      David
      :3gears: 68 Rally Sport Camaro 350/4spd(t56ingarage)/8.5 10bolt 2.56 open,Hotchkis springs, kyb shocks, 17" Rallys 235/245-45-17

      1989 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am 3.8 Buick LC2 V-6 w/51k, Ported heads w/oversized one piece valves, te-44 turbo,PTS built 200R4 w/2800stall, Lucas green top 009 42.5# injectors, AFPR, Adjustable wastegate, ATR 3inch exhaust, Terry houston 3inch mandrel bent downpipe, stock intercooler w/duttwieler neck, Eibach Springs, Bilstien shocks, Spohn adjustable panhard bar...

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Oakland CA
      Posts
      256
      ...
      :3gears: 68 Rally Sport Camaro 350/4spd(t56ingarage)/8.5 10bolt 2.56 open,Hotchkis springs, kyb shocks, 17" Rallys 235/245-45-17

      1989 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am 3.8 Buick LC2 V-6 w/51k, Ported heads w/oversized one piece valves, te-44 turbo,PTS built 200R4 w/2800stall, Lucas green top 009 42.5# injectors, AFPR, Adjustable wastegate, ATR 3inch exhaust, Terry houston 3inch mandrel bent downpipe, stock intercooler w/duttwieler neck, Eibach Springs, Bilstien shocks, Spohn adjustable panhard bar...

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Mesquite, TX
      Posts
      4,941
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow.

      I wish I could get that kind of money.

      Call your local parts house. Get a price on a new MC and rear shoes. Pick up a Chilton's or a Haynes manual and do your own shoes... I wouldn't expect the parts AND the book to be more than 100 dollars. Doing drums sucks, but if you do them one at a time you'll be able to use one as a reference for the other.

      Thanks for the kind words, btw.. they make the time spent worthwhile




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