Ni Copp Line Kit and Flaring

[67CamNKC]

I bought the Ni Copp brake line kit from S.U.R.& R. to build my own brake lines for my 67 camaro. I also bought the OTC master brake flaring kit for bubble, single, and double flares. So far it seems to work great on the Ni Copp brake line.

Here is what the bubble flare looks like. Will this work?

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/IMG_20140625_193153374_zps712876ab-1.jpg (http://s874.photobucket.com/user/beal095/media/IMG_20140625_193153374_zps712876ab.jpg.html)

Here is a picture of the two types of brake hose connections I have. The one on the left appears to be a bubble flare connection (outer rear line) and the one on the right is the center rear line and appears to be a single or double flare connection. Is that right? I am using an aftermarket Russell braided hose kit that is a stock replacement for the 2002 Camaro I am using the brakes off of.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/06/IMG_20140625_194118659_zps59eca778-1.jpg (http://s874.photobucket.com/user/beal095/media/IMG_20140625_194118659_zps59eca778.jpg.html)

Just need to make sure I understand what connection needs to go where. The fitting kit I bought has a lot of fittings but not a lot of descriptions.

Thanks,

[Apogee]

The hose fittings on the 1998-2002 caliper hoses are M10x1 bubble flare and the rear center hose is M12x1 bubble on the frame end and 3/8-24 inverted flare at the tee fitting. Your bubble flare looks solid...nice work.

Tobin
KORE3

[67CamNKC]

Thank you for the reply. The ni copp lines seem to be really easy to work with. One more question, the master/booster combo from the 2002 camaro is also what I'm using. I noticed the front line on the master is 1/4". Does some one make a fitting I can slide on my 3/16 line that will thread into the 1/4" port on the master or is an adapter needed? If not what's recommended here? I have a SSBC adjustable proportioning valve with brake light switch that I will be running the lines to (PN# A0730).

Thanks,

[Apogee]

You can run an adapter fitting per your other thread, or you can just source an M12x1 bubble flare tube nut for 3/16" hard lines...there are a few sources for these, however none that I haven't had to modify in order to get them to work without the end of the fitting interfering with the seat prior to sealing. Maybe someone else has found one that works.

The other port on the MC should be M11x1.5.

Tobin
KORE3

[67CamNKC]

Thanks Tobin for taking my call and taking the time to talk. I learned a lot.

[MonzaRacer]

Master cylinder thread sizes should be available on NAPA and other parts sites for respective parts matching. Thats if you know the application of the parts your actually using.

[67CamNKC]

(Refer to post #3) I'm using the MC off a 2002 camaro along with all the brakes. I've got it all covered now, but good to know about the NAPA website. Thanks.

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

Looking pretty good! One thing you may want to consider when using the Ni-Cop lines is BrakeShot from Phoenix Systems. It's an additive that helps fight corrosion, particularly with high levels of copper. It may be worth researching a little?

http://www.brakebleeder.com/brakeshot-1st-ever-brake-fluid-additive/

[67CamNKC]

Wow, very cool. It looks like its a "test your fluid" kind of deal. I will look into it for sure. Thanks.

[iadr]

Yeah I saw that "shot" stuff featured in one of the magazines.
Volvo have had some sort of NiCopp line as OE for years (like mid70's-up!), and being a non car-person car, as well as fairly durable, I wouldn't be surprised if the majority of those cars went to recycle after 15+ years of no flushes.

So unless ABS units are a lot more fragile than the rest of the typical components (and you even run ABS), I'm really doubtful about that product fulfilling a legit need.

[MonzaRacer]

Actually with the "cunifer " line it has enough steel its not really corrosion prone. Look at many of the Volvo lines.
For proper fluid life simply bleed your brakes once a year. Use a good grade of DOT4 or DOT5.1 (non silicone) brake fluid. I have used the "cunifer" (cunifer is the metallurgy cu=copper, ni=nickle, fe=steel, the r was just added to make better name from what I was told).
Also looking inside the line you buy look for extruded line if it has a sort of spiral look inside its not as good pressure wise and will kink and flare worse.
Honestly as a tech I see cars with more contamination that our cars will EVER see. If you road course/autocross/drag race, periodic bleeds will suffice. But since I have a Phoenix Injector Ill just reverse bleed my cars and be done with it.
Then I have control over who much fluid I use and such.
Lee Abel

[Schwartz Performance]

Just to be technical, steel isn't an element.
Otherwise everything else I agree with ;)

-Dale