How do I support my Bird to replace body mounts ?

[Gil]

Hi Guys,
Here is the nooby question.

I have 4 jack stands, 1 hydraulic jack and a bottle jack.

Here is what I have found, do you think it's correct ?


So 2 under the rear axle and 2 under the rear of the subframe by the transmission crossmember ?

Do I need 2 more jack stands to put under the front of the subframe by the bumper ?

Then use a jack and block of wood to raise the body enough to change the mounts ?

Change one side at a time & loosen only the side you change ?

Do you think it's correct & how do you do it if not, please ?

Thank you very much
Gil

[David Pozzi]

One side at a time, but loosen all bolts.

Jack stands under the rear axle.
Place a jack stand under each rocker panel, place a foot long 2x4 between stand & rocker, they are easily dented, push the 2x4 up against the pinch weld. Support rear of subframe on one side & loosen all sub bolts a turn or two. Loosen or remove the bumper brace bolts at the frame, monitor fan to shroud clearance & remove the fan if it hits. Check distributor cap to firewall, you may have to pull the cap, but that's usually ok on a sub mount R&R.
Remove the rear bolt & lower jack enough to change the mount, you may have to loosen the other two bolts more. Install a new bolt, tighten a few turns then move to the middle mount, repeat, then do the front. Repeat on other side, but keep an eye on the fuel & brake lines at the rear of the subframe. re-center the sub using the alignment holes on each middle mount.

On the left side watch the steering rag joint & don't separate the sub too far. Loosen the steering box frame bolts if the rag joint is stressed.

[Rod]

One side at a time, but loosen all bolts.

Jack stands under the rear axle.
Place a jack stand under each rocker panel, place a foot long 2x4 between stand & rocker, up against the pinch weld. Support rear of subframe on one side & loosen all sub bolts a turn or two. Loosen bumper brace bolts at the frame, monitor fan to shroud clearance & remove the fan if it hits. Check distributor cap to firewall, you may have to pull the cap, but that's usually ok on a sub mount R&R.
Remove the rear bolt & lower jack enough to change the mount, you may have to loosen the other two bolts more. Install a new bolt, tighten a few turns then move to the middle mount, repeat, then do the front. Repeat on other side, re-center the sub using the alignment holes on each middle mount.

On the left side watch the steering rag joint & don't separate the sub too far. Loosen the steering box frame bolts if the rag joint is stressed.

^^^^ this

[Gil]

Thank you VERY MUCH David (& Rod).

I'll have to translate in French carefully first as it is very technical & will have to be very carefull also when I do it.


I really love this site for this........... So nice......

I'm really honored I (a French guy with little skills & few tools) can chat with a racer & I can learn from him....

Haven't got the words in English as I'm not very fluent but thank you very much to read & take from your time to answer & share your knowledges.

So cool that gives me the big motivation to work on my car.

Have a nice day guys
Gil

[71beast]

Not to hijack this thread, but should a similar method be employed for those of us with full framed cars? Cause I'm looking at replacing my Chevelle's body bushings and not 100% sure how to do it properly.

[Gil]

Hi there newby question again about torque specs for my factory rubber body mounts, here is what I found, do you think it's correct for the first gen. F body ?

4 body to frame mounts 75-95 lbs ft
2 core support to frame mounts 30-40 lbs ft

Thanks again guys
Gil

[TRANSAMERICAN 79]

I found this very helpful. Spray some PB blaster days prior to removal attempt, mines came out really easy without any issues.

[Gil]

Heard that stock radiator core suport was subject to crackings when using solid body mounts ? Myth or not ?

is it relevant to mix with front poly bushings for the rad. suport to avoid cracks & use solid alu. for the four other holes ?

Thanks
Gil

[Gil]

Hello all,

Before starting the body bushings replacement the driver side frame alignment hole wasn't centered,
Then I replaced the bushing & the alignment hole still not centered,
but I measured diagonally from a hole @ the front of the leaf springs to a hole @ the core support
then another measure from the holes @ the front of the leaf springs to the frame alignment holes
and frame is squared...

is it an issue that the driver side frame alignment hole is not centered?

Thanks
Gil