Has any one here made this type of cars stand?

[daveybtv]

this winter I want to really clean and detail the under side of my car, and I have seen a few cars on this type of home made stand but was wondering what the dimensions are ,, looks to me like 10'' x 15''? and also how high would you safely go with them?

[BayouSS]

You can do a search on here for car stands and you will find the details, believe DSE was first to use them. I made mine 12" x 16", but many are 12"x 12" I believe. Four high is as high as you need or want to go. I really like mine, they give you full access for projects such as you are wanting it for and many others.

[daveybtv]

Cool Thanks...

[NOT A TA]

I built mine 13 X 20. Here's a couple posts post from my shop/garage thread on another forum about the wheel cribs and jack platforms. Full thread can be found here http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/for...s/27721/page1/



With the shop now operational, I've been working on cars more and continuing to organize, clean, etc. Meanwhile I've been stopping by my favorite appliance store for skids made with 2 X 4's so I could use them for this wood project. I've got a couple projects in line where I need a car up higher in the air than traditional jack stands will allow safely. So I built wheel cribs that will raise a car about 2' up from the floor. I don't like working under cars on jackstands anyway, so I'll use them whenever possible. Many shops and people have these, here's my version.

All wood used for this project was obtained from disassembling skids. Each stand section is 13" X 20" to provide stability at the heights I need to raise the car up to.

1. Cut a piece 13" and another 20" to be used as patterns. Nail a small block of scrap wood to the end of each. This way you just use a pencil to mark boards to cut rather than measure every board. Saves time and every piece will be almost exactly the same length if you cut the actual line off each time.

2. Assemble one section using 2 pieces of each length and make sure it's square by using some type of right angle tool or measuring corner to corner and adjusting as needed. Lay the assembled section on a bench, board, or whatever flat surface you can nail to.



3. Lay scrap pieces of wood against the sides of the 2 X 4's you made the 1st section out of, and nail them to the flat surface creating a jig which will hold the pieces square while you nail or screw the 2 X 4 pieces together to create each section. I used 3" bright common nails which will just stick through 2 - 2 X 4's if nailed straight. The pointed part that protrudes helps keep the sections from sliding around too easily when stacking them. I would have used the nails removed from skids but a bud bought me a box of new nails as a thank-you after I helped him install some gridwall I gave him. There's no need to get carried away with expensive fasteners or glues. There's nothing trying to pull the boards apart during use, they're in compression. If you have to leave the stands outside, coated nails will last longer.





4. I wanted the top pieces of my stands to have a flat surface like a tire would normally sit on, so I used some of the 3/4" plywood from skids to make that surface. This allows the car to roll a little as it's raised up rather than tilt the stands and evenly distributes the weight. The 2 x 4's on top are enough of a stopper to keep the car from rolling on it's own if the cars placed on a fairly level floor. If only 2 wheels are up on stands for work you're doing, set the E brake and chock the wheels that are on the ground also to be safe. Do not attempt a steep angle.







Now that I have cradles to hold a car a couple feet up in the air I need a way to get cars up that high! I don't want to stack 4 X 4 blocks one on top of another on the floor jack pads, soI figured I'd build some sectional platforms I can put under the floor jacks. This way I can raise the car a little at a time, adding sections of wheel cradles and sections of jack platforms.

15" X 28" worked out well to be a little wider and longer than the jacks. Since the weight of the car will be transferred through the jack wheels to the areas on the ends of the platforms there's no need for lots of support in the middle. I doubled up the 2 X 4's on the end areas since these will have to support a couple thousand pounds when raising the engine end of cars.

The platform sections were built with more wood from disassembled skids and the top wood will get dented from use so the jack won't move around much. Once again, since they're in compression when being used there's no reason to go crazy with fasteners. 10 D common nails for the 2X's and reused coated nails from the skids to hold the pine on the top.





I replaced a power steering pump in a Suburban today. When I do any power steering work on the old GM products I raise the front wheels off the ground and bleed the air out of the system by manually turning the wheels back and forth. This provided an opportunity to test out my new jack support since I wouldn't need to work under the truck, I just needed the wheels off the ground for a few minutes.

Rather than having to crawl under the truck to balance blocks on top of the floor jack or carefully roll the jack under with some blocks already balanced, I tested the new stand. I slid the wood stand under, put the jack on, and raised it up. It worked out awesome! Much more stable than blocks.

[Jetfixr320]

Nice write-up John.
Looks pretty safe to me.

I had a stripped down 64 Fairlane on concrete blocks and 6x6's before. I like yours better.

Steve

[andrewb70]

Let's not do this over again. All info can be found here:

https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ight=dse+stand

Andrew