Dse Stands

[PRO 48 Fleetline]

I have been looking into making them for my car aswell really handy items 9 blocks high seems about right my rears have to be waaay wider for my 33x19.5's but i bought a set if furniture dollies awhile back to set my 48 on to move it out of the way awhile back and worked pretty well i had to rerenforce the rears with 2x4's but worked pretty well! i am going to build a set of 9 highs like that myself really neat peices and affordable to build!

[Larry Callahan]

I think I will make a set of these this weekend as well. I also think I may make them a little longer and not as tall. I see the ones DSE makes and I just don't feel comfortable with the wheel not resting down inside further. Being in California with regular earthquakes and my fat butt pushing on the car I would be afraid it would roll off.

I had a close call last weekend with the stands I have and plan to pitch them and build new.

[derekf]

Larry, you'd made some like these and they had problems?

[Brandon Miller]

I think maybe he means his jackstands that have been seen in some of his photos.

[Tony@AirRideTech]

That is called box cribbing. If built correctly it is extemely strong and will disperse load over a greater surface area. Your first run of 2x's should be solid with only a little gap between the boards. from there you will stack sides going up to your desired height. When you build these to set a round object on like a tire, you do not want to make them to big to the point of the tire fitting in the cribbing to far. This will make the load want to seperate the cribbing laterally instead of the load going down towards the ground.

[jknight16]

I made a set for mine to help with my TKO swap and they've been working perfectly. Car's been up there for far longer than I had anticipated...but they've held strong.

Like Tony said I made my first and second-to-last layers nearly solid (three parallel boards instead of two), then put the two boards on the top layer arranged in the wheel chock format.

[GrabberGT]

how are these locked together when stacked or are they just REALLY good at making sure they are all straight.

[Larry Callahan]

Or, if you have $500 you want to spend. Ouch!




http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

[Brandon Miller]

Or, if you have $500 you want to spend. Ouch!




http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

For some reason those just don't look as strong as the 2x4s.

[jknight16]

how are these locked together when stacked or are they just REALLY good at making sure they are all straight.

Hahaha, really good stacking of course.... I put mine together with probably 50 long wood screws (200 in total). 2 per corner per layer.

[Larry Callahan]

I think I will go the 2x4 route as well with a few changes. I think I will make mine a little shorter and I will do something to make it less easy to roll off. We got hit with a 4.2 earthquake a few days ago and I worry about that. Where I am going to store them when I'm not using them is beyond me.

[Tony@AirRideTech]

If it were me, I would use pressure treated lumber, 2.5" decking screws and even a little dab of gorrilla glue on each run. no kind a kill like a little over kill

[Jarcaines]

I think I am going to make some of these AND put jack stands under it, can't hurt to have a back up system in place.

[CarlC]

Yup. Cribbing. Standard practice for keeping equipment elevated during construction/repairs. The last job I was on where we needed to crib a 100t structure they used 12" x 12" x 48" oak. I wanted to take some of those home!

From a strength perspective, no problem. It's serious overkill. For example, a pine 2" x 2" can take a 3000lb load axially before failure (non-buckling.) White Western Pine has a 450 #/in2 compression strength perpendicular to the grain. With 49 in2 minimum, there's far more strength than needed.

For there to be a stability problem a large enough lateral load must be applied to cause the stand to rotate around a floor edge. This means that the stand will not just rotate, but must also lift the car. Think big earthquakes.

If additional rolling resistance is wanted either the boards could be made wider apart or a wedge could be added on the fore/aft sections of the tire.

[minendrews68]

I think I will make a set of these this weekend as well. I also think I may make them a little longer and not as tall. I see the ones DSE makes and I just don't feel comfortable with the wheel not resting down inside further. Being in California with regular earthquakes and my fat butt pushing on the car I would be afraid it would roll off.

I had a close call last weekend with the stands I have and plan to pitch them and build new.

I agree with Larry, and I don't know if he's talking about his fat butt or my fat butt but it seems like were thinking along the same lines. They are a good design but it just looks like they could roll off if someone pushed (fell against) or whatever, especially if the body was just that and was just a shell. There would be a very different weight thing going on there and it seems like it would be easy to come off the stands. I do think I'm going to make me a set as well, I just think they're going to be a little bigger. I know where Larry's coming from, if I was under a car and it started moving I don't think I could get my big butt out in time, besides I ain't getting any younger either.

[minendrews68]

Yup. Cribbing. Standard practice for keeping equipment elevated during construction/repairs. The last job I was on where we needed to crib a 100t structure they used 12" x 12" x 48" oak. I wanted to take some of those home!

From a strength perspective, no problem. It's serious overkill. For example, a pine 2" x 2" can take a 3000lb load axially before failure (non-buckling.) White Western Pine has a 450 #/in2 compression strength perpendicular to the grain. With 49 in2 minimum, there's far more strength than needed.

For there to be a stability problem a large enough lateral load must be applied to cause the stand to rotate around a floor edge. This means that the stand will not just rotate, but must also lift the car. Think big earthquakes.

If additional rolling resistance is wanted either the boards could be made wider apart or a wedge could be added on the fore/aft sections of the tire.

See I totally agree with Carl C, I've just got to figure out what he said. lol just kidding you are right though..

[LowBuckX]

Ok dumb question but how the heII are you jacking your car up that high to get them under the tires.. I mean safely


BTW $10 worth of ratchet straps around the tire and through the cribbing would ease my mind about it rolling off.

[Damn True]

BTW $10 worth of ratchet straps around the tire and through the cribbing would ease my mind about it rolling off.

Damn.

Sometimes the simple answer is the best.

Nice one.

[LONE*STAR]

You'd be surprised what a few 2in ratchets wrapped around some wheels are capable of, I've done literally thousands of Repo's and never had one fail me. I dont think you'd have a problem.t

[rlplive]

I think I am going to make some of these AND put jack stands under it, can't hurt to have a back up system in place.

I'm with you on that, then maybe put a jack somewhere under it as a third backup plan hahaha. I am always nervous laying under a jacked up car.