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Thread: 1967 Dodge D-100 (Isaacs truck)
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10-23-2021 #221Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2019
- Posts
- 218
So today, I finished getting the chassis apart, and built my engine stand, and a few other little pieces here and there. The engine stand works great, and I managed to get a few really nice welds on it. I havent welded in a few months, so it took a few to get my speed right.
I managed to measure the suspension, and I am convinced the parts were manufactured with a defect. I zeroed the angle finder, and measured the results. Had I installed the "top hats" to get the desired angle, it would have made the cross member uprights crooked, and the uprights need to be straight. Ill see if I can arrange the pictures in an order that makes sense. Either way, they dont match side to side, which is wrong anyway.
I think what Im going to do is cut the upper a-arm bar out, and remove the shock mount. Ill install another bar at the right angle and orientation, and see how that works.
1st- the cross member upright is straight. I drew in a line where the "top hat" and the cross member meet. There is a seem that gets welded there.
2nd-drivers side. It should be close to 5 degrees.
3rd-passenger side. Should also be close to 5 degrees, but they should at least match side to side.
4th-both side were level and within .2 degrees of each other at the bottom of the cross member.
5th-started out too fast at the top, but slowed it down and got a nice weld by the bottom. Im getting better.
6th-finished engine stand, sitting on a furniture dolly.
Picture folder for Isaacs truck
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...aN?usp=sharing
Isaacs truck build thread:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...(Isaacs-truck)
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10-29-2021 #222Registered User- Join Date
- Feb 2019
- Posts
- 218
I tried to get most of the grinding and cutting done today, but Ill still have a little to do along the way. I did quite a bit today.
I cut the tops off of the cross member, and removed the round bar from it. My plan is to set these bars exactly how I want them, then make 3/16 filler plates. I have a tapered reamer on the way that should fix the spindles. Ill shorten the top tubes a little to allow caster adjustments also. And if anything doesnt go as planned, Ill step back and punt...meaning Ill just order the welder series cross member, and cut this all the way out. That option is on the table, but Im trying to avoid it since I have so much time and money in this set-up already. Its not so much about the money, but removing everything would set me back a few more months, and it would require a lot of figuring out to get all the parts right. Plus I want to use the brakes I have now. I plan on doing a welder series on the F100 when its time comes.
I was playing around and made a cross member that I really kinda like. The 2 x 3 wall thickness is excessive, but thats what I picked up the other day off of facebook marketplace, so I used it. The loop was scrap from work I scrounged up. The cross member would give me a little driveshaft loop of sorts, so in the event of a driveshaft failure, it doesnt catch the pavement. Im not sure Ill use it, but I want to. We will see.
Still tons of work to do on the frame. Ill be busy this winter.
1st- If I use it, it would replace the cross member in front of it. Nothing bolts to this cross member, so it just sits there, all crooked.
2nd-Fitting the loop. It fit pretty good I think.
3rd-Loop notched were cut with a grinder, so they are not perfect.
4th-The bar where the upper control arm was mounted. I cut them out, and cleaned them up. Ill also shorten them for caster adjustments.
5th-Cross member top mount cut flush and ready for mods.
Picture folder for Isaacs truck
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...aN?usp=sharing
Isaacs truck build thread:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...(Isaacs-truck)
11-04-2021 #223Registered User- Join Date
- Feb 2019
- Posts
- 218
This IFS will be the death of me. I struggled for hours the other day trying to make sure everything is right. The cross member appears to be square and level. I installed the control arms, and the lowers are level at ride height. So, the upper ball joint should be behind the lower, and the angle between their centers should be about 4 to 5 degrees of caster angle. I am using a manual steering rack just in case anyone wants to know. If it was power steering, I could add a little more, maybe 6 or 7 degrees. Then the upper control arm pivot point should be set at around 5 degrees for anti-dive. The drivers side is set, and looks to be going okay. The passenger side has just made a mockery of me. Ill deal with it again saturday, and maybe have more information. The more I look at it, the more I notice little things, Like the lower control arms are nor perfect mirror images of each other. I think Im going to build in some extra adjustment points so I can make sure this thing is aligned right when the time comes.
In the mean time to boost my spirits and confidence, I started the cross member pass throughs, and started filling holes. I think Im going to remove the crooked cross member (I think it was for the carrier bearing), and add the new one I made. Actually, Im pretty sure its too tall, Ill have to make a shorter one, But I like it, and itll look good under there.
Im going to spend some time cleaning the frame up too. It looks worse than I thought.
1st- Rear side of the pass throughs. The wiring, fuel lines and brake lines will go through these.
2nd-Front side. These will get welded and smoothed.
3rd- A hole we accidentally cut before and left for later. Well, its later so I fixed it.
4th-I know the picture sucks. The anti-dive angle is 5 degrees, and the caster is around 4-1/2.
5th-This side is doing okay. Ill deal with the upper shock mounts later as well. The other side is fighting me.
Picture folder for Isaacs truck
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...aN?usp=sharing
Isaacs truck build thread:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...(Isaacs-truck)
11-05-2021 #224Registered User- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- sw Kansas
- Posts
- 1,650