Help/Advice needed: 66 Impala stock 3 link/track bar problem

[BA.]

I caused a problem to apparently re-appear tonight after doing a satisfying burnout. I don't mind breaking stuff, but I do prefer to FIX it just once. Sheesh!

When I got home, I noticed my differential/pinion was pointing way up high again, making my drive-shaft hit the tunnel on the slightest bump. Also, the rubber pinion bumper on the body was popped out again as in a previous occurrance. A quick glance underneath and it looked as if everything was in it's place, nothing broken.

This occurred again even after recently replacing rear control arm bushings, boxing the stockers and the new single Upper is now a Hotchkis adjustable unit. Still on the stock track bar, but with poly bushings now.
After the upgrades, I adjusted the pinion angle per the book at about 1.5 degrees as the manual shows it.
I had thought the new parts would have prevented this issue from re-occurring but I guess I was wrong about that.



Is this just something the 3-link will do when abused with clutch dumping burnouts? How do I fix/prevent it?
Would it happen if I had the 12-bolt and the 2nd Upper arm? Is that a full *cure* for this issue? I guess the higher HP Impalas' had the 2nd UCA.
Am I missing something else? I dont' think my Hotchkis Upper will adjust any shorter!!

Looking closer at things this morning, I see that my passenger side wheel is pushed forward and not centered any more. With no broken parts, I'm not sure what to do for the temp fix, NOR the permanent fix.


Arrrgh.

[BA.]

I may have just figured this out for both instances of when this issue has happened.

I think the axle tube is rotating as compared to the differential. That makes sense, right? I mean, it's a stock 10-bolt, people usually weld the tubes to the diff., it happened both times after clutch-popping little burnouts. 275 series tires, 4100lb, 46 yr old car with a 383 crate motor and Muncie.
The Drivers side LCA bracket is angled 15 degrees to the front of the car,.....the Passenger side bracket is angled 9 degrees in the opposite direction!!! (to the rear) Pretty sweet, right?

I think I just found the next Weakest Link. I think this also means there's no easy fix this time to get me on the road again. :(

Sound plausible? Could I leverage this back in place and then weld the tubes? That sounds tricky, not sure how I'd move the axle tube.

[Ron Sutton]

Do a reverse burnout.

Just kiddin' !!!!

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Seriously,

You "MAY" have just one axle tube that has spun. If that is the case ... this first fix option is a little redneck ... but you can "leverage" it back ... then weld both tubes in place. If you do it this way, use 4 short welds (1") on each tube ... one at a time ... 180 apart ... and allow cooling time in between. (180 degrees apart means weld 3 o'clock, then 9 o'clock, then 12 o'clock & finally 6 o'clock. This process reduces distortion.)

The correct way, would be to take the rear end out & all apart & take it to a local chassis builder with a rear end jig. They can "leverage" it back in place & weld both tubes fully ... with the jig fixture inside the rear end, to keep the axle tubes straight on centerline with the outer bearing ends.

[BA.]

That was pretty funny! Oddly, seems like it would work too! :-D

I was looking for ways to leverage the tube back around and so far, the only option I know of is to try to use a bar on the bolts of the backing plate at the end of the axle tube. (got the idea from someone else)

[Ron Sutton]

The time I did it was back in my drag race days. I had a chassis customer who did the same thing as yours. He had 36" ladder bars welded on the tubes, but the tubes weren't welded to the center section & 1 side rotated.

We simply placed the rear end on the floor ... with 1 ladder bar in the air & 1 touching the ground ... had a fat boy apply his unique talent to the end of the ladder bar in the air ... and the side that broke free, rotated. We used an angle gauge to get them the same & then welded it up in our jig.

[BA.]

Like you said - it's all a bit redneck-y, but I'm just looking for a temp solution to drive it again. At some point it will get an upgrade.

Thanks for the tip.