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    Results 1 to 10 of 10
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Brisbane Australia
      Posts
      13

      Rust Converter HELP!

      I just rust converted the car which is bare metal The directions on this product said wash well with water. Dry ASAP. Then sand lighly with 120-180. I did and as I was drying it the metal changed colour to a bronzy sort of colour? Is this rust or is this part of the process? Should I now need to sand it back to silver metal?

      Brooke Fraser
      Brisbane Australia


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Brisbane Australia
      Posts
      13
      Yup its rust. Thought I would hit it with a bit of rust converter while waiting. Goes back to beautiful metal. Will convert the whole car, call the manufacturer on Monday and see what they say to do.
      Brooke Fraser
      Brisbane Australia

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2004
      Location
      Mid-Michigan
      Posts
      2,764
      Country Flag: United States
      If you have nice clean metal you shouldn't need the rust convertor. The convertor needs "rust" to work... Get it to bare metal and use a self etching primer to protect it, then shoot on a good primer surfacer to do your blocking.
      Mark
      Mark:
      "Bad Ast" Astro Van. Just because I did it... Doesn't mean it's possible...
      This my Bad Ast thread...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...roject-Faze-II
      This is my Fotki album...
      http://astroracer.fotki.com/

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Indpls, IN
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      The POR15 metal wash product does the same thing. I think its normal.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Brisbane Australia
      Posts
      13
      Spoke to the manufacturer. He said wipe over the surface with a clean cloth lightly soaked in the rust converter and the follow up with wax and grease remover. Worked great. Sprayed self etching primer onto it immediately. Thanks guys.
      Brooke Fraser
      Brisbane Australia

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2012
      Location
      Las Vegas, Nevada
      Posts
      109
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by astroracer View Post
      If you have nice clean metal you shouldn't need the rust convertor. The convertor needs "rust" to work... Get it to bare metal and use a self etching primer to protect it, then shoot on a good primer surfacer to do your blocking.
      Mark
      what he says

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      434
      Country Flag: United States
      I hope the OP doesn't mind, but I was wondering if any of you have tried to do an "acid wash" and then use epoxy primer. I was thinking of getting some acid, I believe it's phosphoric that is recommended, and wiping down bare metal with it.

      Thoughts? I know I could just buy self-etching but I'm not near any paint stores and it's expensive to ship. When it's the weekend and I get a chance to do a little more work I like to

      Plus, I'm just curious...

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2004
      Location
      Mid-Michigan
      Posts
      2,764
      Country Flag: United States
      Metal Etch or Metal Ready are both acid based washes. They work well and are formulated to do their job. I don't think you want to use straight Phosphoric Acid though. That stuff is not good and I would really hate to see you spill it on ANYTHING, let alone trying to handle it to wipe down your car... Muriatic Acid is what I would recommend IF you want to do it this way. I would check with the primer manufacturer before hand to see if this is a recommended alternative. I doubt it would be. If you have clean, well sanded, grease free metal there is really no reason a good epoxy primer will not work well. A good self-etching primer is just a little insurance against delamination but it is not a necessary step. I will use self-etching primer on aluminum prior to primer and paint and, in that case, it works well for adhesion.
      Mark
      Mark:
      "Bad Ast" Astro Van. Just because I did it... Doesn't mean it's possible...
      This my Bad Ast thread...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...roject-Faze-II
      This is my Fotki album...
      http://astroracer.fotki.com/

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      434
      Country Flag: United States
      I could have sworn I read that muriatic acid would continue to eat metal where phospho would etch in and "dry out" before it did any damage. Sorry for the non-technical lingo, I'll see if I can find some info on where it was.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      The Metal Ready products have phosphoric acid as well as zinc phosphate-some do dry with a slight bronze tint from the phosphate.
      1978 Black Trans Am 455 Edelbrock heads [email protected] through mufflers on pump gas
      1981 Trans Am 400 stock type motor
      79 Camaro getting a 500" 695 hp IA2 Pontiac motor
      1965 GTO project car
      470ci/Chevy dual quad 409 604 HP 64 Impala SS project
      2004 Pulse Red GTO




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