Fuel Line from the Tank to the Fuel Rail

[67CamNKC]

What are you guys using for fuel line from tank to the F/R and to the fuel rail on the LS?



I know there's:

stainless braided
Fragola push on
Dorman
Alum hard line
carbon hard line
Stainless steel hardline

We've used stainless braided hose on all of our race stuff in the past. Just curious on what your experiences have been and what you liked.

Thanks.

[camrat68]

I'm running -6 Russell black braided line for both feed and return. I'm looking to go back to the stock style lines in stainless because I'm wondering if the braided stuff insulates too well and allows the fuel to retain heat causing vapor lock on my Edelbrock 35520 set-up when it's over 80deg ambient.

Jim

[parsonsj]

You need to use hard line in steel, stainless, or aluminum, PTFE, nylon, or rubber rated for high pressure. Braided stuff (Earl's, Russell, Aeroquip, etc.) will eventually fail with pump gas.

Check this thread out: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...es-took-a-crap

It's a sticky over in the EFI section.

[Schwartz Performance]

Depends on the power and budget. We use a Corvette filter/regulator for close to stock engines usually. Get a Dorman quick disconnect steel tube, and either stick a Russell push on AN fitting on it to run all soft line to engine, or mate it to a hard line.. Run down the chassis and have a soft to the rail with another push on fitting.

Or run AN the whole way to an Aeromotive regulator; or partial hard line as well...

TechAFX makes lines that are like OEM but they're braided.. They won't emit gas vapors like Earls or others will. Only drawback is that it's pricey!

Plenty of options out there.

-Dale

[67CamNKC]

Thanks guys. I'll look into hard line and the PTFE hose.

THanks.

[garys 68]

Dont waste your time or money. I used a combination of hardline and stainless braided on both my swaps. For about 1/2 the price of one installation, I could have got a kit with OEM plastic line and a variety of nylon fittings that would have done both cars. Same stuff used on every car on the road today.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-800-3...b92eb6&vxp=mtr

[ChevelleNV]

Dont waste your time or money. I used a combination of hardline and stainless braided on both my swaps. For about 1/2 the price of one installation, I could have got a kit with OEM plastic line and a variety of nylon fittings that would have done both cars. Same stuff used on every car on the road today.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-800-3...b92eb6&vxp=mtr

This is the same kit I bought to do my car with, has plenty of hose. probably enough to do 2 cars with.. I am going to use this and a few sections of the stock fuel line for my Chevelle to plumb up my LSX

[parsonsj]

The Dorman kit referenced by Gary is for nylon. Good stuff, and I'll probably pick up a kit. I love the OE quick-disconnect stuff, but wonder if it is big enough. Also, you'll need to secure the line every 6 inches or so if you use it for the whole length of the car.

[camrat68]

As to big enough, I've been trying to get information on whether the fuel lines are the same between the Gen v Camaro 2SS and the ZL1. I think they probably are but can't find any info on the subject.

Jim

[CarlC]

Be careful when using the Dorman line fittings on the newer model fuel modules. Some of the Dorman fittings require the use of a special tool for removal. The tool inserts into the bore of the fitting, hence releasing a fishhook type lock. There is insufficient room for this tool on the later model fuel module outlet nipples.

The type that use the side mount slide locks should work fine.

[camrat68]

A gentleman on the Camaro5 board who owns both a 2SS Camaro and a ZL-1 Camaro has confirmed that the fuel lines are the same size for both cars even though one has twice the horsepower as the other. For me personally, I'll be switching to 3/8" nylon lines to connect a vaporworx tank to my Edelbrock fuel injection.

Good luck with your build!

Jim

[Rhino]

The type that use the side mount slide locks should work fine.

Carl, can you elaborate on these slide lock fittings? I've used the dorman fittings in the past and haven't run across any that don't use a removal tool similar to this:

[snappytravis]

Carl, can you elaborate on these slide lock fittings? I've used the dorman fittings in the past and haven't run across any that don't use a removal tool similar to this:

These are the tools used for the bell type fittings, this site will tell you what fits what if you ever need them,http://asttool.com/search_results.php I believe the dorman kit uses the type of fittings that have two open slots on each side and you squeeze them together and it releases the line, My friend had one come apart on his car right off the bat, changed to more secure screw type fitting, The only thing that bothers me Is the Dorman kit is a fuel line repair kit, I believe it was made for when you change a fiter and it twists the line off, I see people running it not sure if they have had any problems or not?

[Rhino]

If I hadn't dealt with it on my 4th gen I'm not even sure I would have even considered it. I'm leaning toward a hard line down the frame with a few feet of nylon tube on either end.

I'm using a stock style tank with a 5th gen module grafted in. I just got back from the garage and verified the end I posted previously would be a bit difficult to use. As Carl stated, I'll likely have to use a slide lock on that end.

[CarlC]

3/8" line is more than sufficient in those applications.

When using AN6 often it's the fittings that are the restriction, not the lines.

[BobK]

I ran braided PTFE supply/return from the tank to a Corvette filter/regulator. I used a short section (18") of hard line off the regulator and down the rear frame rail because the PTFE was making the push-in outlet fitting on the regulator pull sideways because the line had to make a 90 pretty quick. I switched back to PTFE for the balance of the run up to the fuel rail.

[Cdog]

I’d do stainless 3/8 line for supply and return and follow the factory mount locations. Run braided the last 12 inches to tank for flex. Use AN fittings to terminate ends in engine area.

[71RS/SS396]

I’d do stainless 3/8 line for supply and return and follow the factory mount locations. Run braided the last 12 inches to tank for flex. Use AN fittings to terminate ends in engine area.

X2 I don't like those plastic quick connect clips. Ask Finch what happens when they break and let loose!

[parsonsj]

Don't use ordinary stainless hose anywhere in your fuel system. Use PTFE lined hose.

This stuff is ideal: http://blog.iimuchfabrication.com/?p=346

As for those plastic clips, Carl turned me on to these screw-on adapters from Russell:

[Rhino]

Looking at the ends that came in my kit, they are plastic, but still require the tool for removal.

The kit I picked up is technically called a "repair kit" however it included all I've needed to build a few fuel systems. I can't find the exact one, but similar to this. It comes with all kinds of ends, splices, bulk line, and an assembly tool. I ordered it through my local NAPA when building a Jeep a few years ago. I will admit they can be a bit finicky on install but, knock on wood, I haven't had any issues yet. I'll likely do a bit more research into it before starting, but at the moment I still plan on using them for my current build.

EDIT: they look similar to this guy: