68 Camaro LS6 fit problems!

[duckmanjbr]

I thought I researched everything I could and yet I'm still coming into a problem. I have an LS6 w/ S&P mounts, small block frame mounts, Holley oil pan and stock subframe. The problem is the oil pan hits the steering linkage. Has anyone done this swap w/ these parts already? What am I missing here? Does this look like the factory center drag link?

[BuzzKillian]

I'm thinking you have your mounts on the oposite side it should be on. I only have 1/2" or so clearance at the firewall, it looks, with that configuration, you'd have a couple inches.

You should have a bunch of clearance with the Holley pan.
That is not a factory drag link.

[badazz81z28]

Can you move those motor mounts on the engine forward so the engine will move the back? Either that or find thicker motor mounts or shim it up?

BTW, I used 1" set back adapters for my second gen because the motor seems to be shorter in length compared to the SBC.

[68lovebuzz]

I too think you have to move those mounts up (the energy suspension motor mounts). they should be mounted towards the front of those adapter plates. And as far as the centerlink, that does not look factory.

[duckmanjbr]

Oh don't tell me that! lol That does explain a lot though.. I never even thought of that. These mounts are on the block from another vehicle swap 5 years ago and are on w/ red lock tight. I've already broke an allen trying to get them off. I just got the motor back from being completly rebuilt! Any suggestions on breaking free red thread locker?

[dhutton]

That does not look like a factory center link to me.

[rchaskin]

Oh don't tell me that! lol That does explain a lot though.. I never even thought of that. These mounts are on the block from another vehicle swap 5 years ago and are on w/ red lock tight. I've already broke an allen trying to get them off. I just got the motor back from being completly rebuilt! Any suggestions on breaking free red thread locker?

Small propane torch. Get the bolts nice and warm and they should come out.

[BobK]

a) That's definitely not a factory center link, and b), your mounts are definitely upside down, which is pulling the engine way too far forward, which is causing your pan interference. The single hole on the urethane mount should face down, and should be toward the front of the engine compared to the adapter plate (the lower hole on the urethane mount should either be the same as the lower front hole on the adapter plate, or within an inch or so of it, depending on which plates you have).

[alky]

Yes the mounts do look to be on the wrong side, driver to passenger.
Some adapter plates are made to run the mounts upside down. Like the old
ATS adaptor plates and the porthane adaptors.

[GeoffP]

The mounts are definitely reversed. The way you have them sets the engine lower in the frame but does reduce clearance some. That center link is definitely NOT factory. However if you reverse the mounts you may actually get the clearance you need to clear the center link. It looks to me like the center link is raised similarly to the mounting points of a TruTurn system. I'd check the steering arms too while you're at it. You don't want to replace the center link with an OE unit if the steering arms are non-factory too. You could potentially really mess up the bump steer characteristics if your car if the parts aren't matched correctly.

[duckmanjbr]

Thanks for the help guys! There was no way I was getting the mounts off so it ended up going to a machince shop for a few hours. They had to drill all the bolts out. I reversed the mounts and it was better. I still ended up "making" it fit. The S&P plates I have didn't mount to the factory small block towers. It was about 1/2" off on both sides so the towers are no longer bolt in. A nice welder and a few minutes of time and the towers are now in the perfect place! The motor is now in and should be wired up and running in a few days. Just waiting on the ECU to get back to me... Thanks again for all the quick answers!