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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: United States

      2004R lugs on stops!

      I need a little help figuring out where my problem may be on my trans. I have a stage 2 2004R from Trans Depot and it tries to stall the engine when coming to a stop. Like a stick trans if the clutch isnt in, but at the last second it lets go and the engine idles back up. I am using the B&M lockup controller and it seems to be working. I can adjust the lockup up or down with the dial and I can feel it go in and out of lockup, but coming to a stop ,it feels like the converter is momentarily stuck in lockup. Is it something I should worry about or give the trans more time to break in? The whole car only has about 130 miles in it, so everything is fresh. Anyone run into this before and have some advice? Thanks in advance.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      3,040
      Country Flag: United States
      I know very little about automatics but it sounds like the trans isn't downshifting. You could temporarily disconnect the lock up wiring circuit and eliminate that from the equation.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Posts
      16
      Country Flag: United States
      Check that the tv cable is adjusted properly. There is a procedure for checking it with a pressure gauge and a hose I'll look for the link and post it if I can find it.

      Found it.
      http://www.extremeautomatics.com/ima...on_Install.pdf

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Batesville, IN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      I don't know how you have it wired, but I used a relay wired normally closed connected to my brake light switch, so that when I step on the brake, it would open the relay and cut power to the lockup circuit. I used a Bowler lockup module which basically only locks up in 4th gear based on pressure and time (locks ups after a specified time).

      I don't know how B&M's lockup module works, but you absolutely need to cut power to the lockup circuit upon the application of the brakes.

      I'm not sure if the TV system would keep the converter locked..............but if the brake circuit is wired properly, the TV cable would have no effect on the converter staying lock as the lockup would have no power. You do need to make sure that the TV cable is properly adjusted or your transmission will not live.

      Hopefully, I made some sense......
      Brandon Wiedeman
      1972 Suburban
      1967 Chevy II - Project not yet started

      I have about 3 lifetimes worth of projects planned out in my head!
      Wiedo's

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: United States
      Yea ,the TV is set good , I think. I spent alot of time on it and am happy with the gear shifts. The B&M unit wires through the brake switch and has a light to indicate when the converter is locked or not(green/locked-red/unlocked). It also has a dial to adjust engagement RPM. It all seems to be functioning right, EXCEPT when I come to a stop. The red light comes on(lockup disengaged) when I push the brake pedal, but the lockup clutch seems to be sticking until the torque of the engine overcomes it. I can give a little gas as I stop and it will unlock without pulling the engine down. Can the converter clutch stick mechanically?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastern Virginia
      Posts
      3,963
      Country Flag: United States
      Sounds like the locking torque converter isn't disengaging when you put on the brakes. Years ago I had a 200R4 behind a TPI motor, wiring harness didnt have provision for the lockup torque converter, so I put a switch in the console & manually turned it on. If I forgot to turn it off when I cam to a stop it would lunge, stall, spit, sputter.

      That's what it sounds like to me.
      Scot
      86 Monte SS


    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: United States
      It makes good sense to me that the converter is not unlocking, but would it be a mechanical"stick" or the wiring. It has never failed to disengage before the motor stalled and the B&M controller engages right going down the road. If the converter was electrically engaged would it stall the engine when I came to a stop?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      419
      First step like someone said above, disable the B&M first to see if this helps.

      Second is the TC lockup solenoid my be sticking on. Fortunately that is an easy fix, but you must make sure the B&M thingy is working properly.

      I'm familiar with what the B&M is but I don't know if it uses the 3rd or 4th pressure switch to activate the system. If it does not, the problem is probably with the B&M controller.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: United States
      How would I disable the B&M controller and still have the lockup converter wired? It is all wired together. Help and thanks for the feedback.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      3,040
      Country Flag: United States
      Pull the fuse. You don't want the converter wired, we are trying to determine if it is in fact a converter problem. By taking the electronics out of the equation, (by pulling the fuse) you can eliminate that part from the equation.

      So if you disable the lockup portion of the transmission and it eliminates your problem you know that is the issue. If the problem persists, try manuall downshifting the transmission all the way to first gear by gear and see if the engine still want to stall. If it does still stall with a manual downshift, then it is possible that the converter is "sticking" but I think that is unlikely.

      You won't hurt the converter or trans by test drving it with the lock up inoperational.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jan 2013
      Posts
      48
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok will do. Im trying to remember exactly how I wired the B&M up but I dont recall a fuse. Ive got the paper work to the unit in a drawer in my tool box. Worse case, I guess I could pull the ground or just unplug it from the 2 trans wires. If my blown back will let me crawl under the car tomorrow, I will try it and report back. Thanks again.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Batesville, IN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      Depending on what circuit you wired it into on the fuse panel, you should be able to pull the fuse from the panel -- assuming you didn't wire it in with other items that essential for the vehicle to operate.
      Brandon Wiedeman
      1972 Suburban
      1967 Chevy II - Project not yet started

      I have about 3 lifetimes worth of projects planned out in my head!
      Wiedo's




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